500 MJ

That is exactly what I need them for... No driveline shops to speak of in No-Mans-Land (Upper Peninsula of MI - I know of a few places downstate...)

Anyone know a good place to buy these? Local parts stores don't even seem to know what I am talking about - much less have them... http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease ... 428FJ.html

Sounds like you like to keep busy. That's quite a project, all the power to ya!

Anything is worth a shot, thanks for the info! Will be awhile before I get to try it out though...

Well, I am back up at college now. I licensed the truck and drove it around town for a few days, still starting hard, and then tried to drive it back to college. It didnt make it. I stopped at a rest stop along the freeway. It was running just fine so I shut it off and went in to do my thing. Came back out and it WOULD NOT START. I was about an hour down the road at this point. I spent about an hour trying everything I could think of to get it to start but it just wasn't in the stars I guess. So I had my parents come and pick me up, we towed the truck home. Once we got it home I figured I would just see if it might possibly start. It did. It ran rough then cleared up and ran fine, just like before. :wall: Not wanting to trust it, I pulled it back out into the woods and thats where it will sit until I get the chance to mess with it again! I'm not too happy with that truck at the moment. On the plus side, I put the battery back in the '88 and it fired right up. Drove it to the Sec. of State to swap plates the next day and then continued on with the full 420 mile trip back to college. :bowdown: Guess it is destiny to have the 4wd machine up here to play around in the snow with and leave the 2wd one back at home...

Well, it all depends on how you were to go about buying the main tube for the bumper. Buying a short piece of it, 60" or so could end up costing you more per foot than if you were to buy a whole 24' long section of the stuff from the foundry. Apparently it is a major hassle to cut a piece of tube for steel shops, they would rather just sell you the whole thing and not have to cut it. :doh: When I did it, it ran about $175 for all the steel and all other materials (welding supplies, grinding discs, etc) for one bumper. The majority of that cost was around $90 for the main tube...

I took it down to a mechanic today and now $50 later I still don't have an answer. Prior to having the problem I noticed that the connection in the wires to the fuel pump had been spliced together with "butt" connectors. I cut these out, one at a time and soldered in a connector in their place. Only after I did this and messed around under the truck doing other things did the problem start to occur with the hard starting. Could the solder gun have hurt the fuel pump enough that it weakened it so it isnt giving me all the fuel I need? The fuel pressure seemed good when we hooked up the gauge to it and let the truck prime up before starting, but I'm wondering if the pressure isnt holding when we go to start it... Any thoughts? I probably should have said something about the soldering but I didnt think it could hurt anything... much less cause a problem, in fact I soldered everything up so that it wouldnt cause a problem :(

I'm trying to get my '90 MJ road worthy. It has been sitting in the woods since Thanksgiving, and it ran just fine then. I understand that gas goes bad, but I don't think that this is completely the case for me. In the past the truck has always started up just fine, in fact it turned right over when I went to retrieve it from the woods this last week. In driving it around the driveway while I have been working on it, it has recently began to start very hard. I ran it down the road today and it stalled three times on me in the 2 mile drive I took it on and it took forever to start after each time it stalled. Once it started it ran just fine. After putting it back in the garage for the night and trying to start it the next day, it now takes about a minute worth of cranking before it starts. Once it starts it only runs on a few cylinders for about 5 seconds and then the rest of them kick in. The truck only has 100,000 miles on it. The distributor cap is dry, but it does have a few spots of corrosion on it. I cleaned it and the rotor up with a wire brush. I don't think the problem is fuel related because there is plenty of fuel pressure in the fuel rail and the pump works good and primes right up before each start. I am starting to wonder if something has become gummed up or if something major is wrong with the computer :ack: ... running out of ideas, any help? Truck is a '90 with the 4.0L and 2wd AW4 trans. Everything is bone stock as far as the driveline goes...

www.madxj.com did a write up on swapping discs onto an XJ 44. The discs and related parts came from a '98 Grand Cherokee. I did this swap on my MJ and it was very easy to do. The version of the website that is up won't let me give you a direct link to the thread... From the madxj home page click on the "Technical" side menu. Scroll down to find the article titled "XJ rear disc conversion using ZJ parts." It is a very thorough article.

Aha! :cheers: I almost went insane there yesterday! Thanks Pete! :yes:

So I went to replace my wheel bearings on the D35 in my white MJ this weekend and I about went out of my mind when I could not pull the axle shafts out with the puller. Now, correct me if I am wrong, but from my knowledge, all D35's in MJ/XJ's were non-C Clip versions...? This is what I assumed anyway, so after I could not pull the shaft out, I started wondering... I took a good look and noticed that there was no retaining plate for the wheel bearings on my axle, with a non C-Clip axle this would be there. So I pulled the diff cover to find C-Clips in the version of D35 I have...how did this happen? Did this axle come stock in my MJ? - It appears to me as it did. However, I could tell that the diff cover was pulled before. Maybe someone else messed with it and converted it to the YJ/TJ version? I did get the bearings replaced. I took the numbers off of them into the parts store and we got it all taken care of that way.

Well, JCR Offroad is making bumpers now, so I probably won't be making anymore of these. JCR Offroad does a nice job with their products and I really don't want to steal any business from them. I know first hand that Michigan needs as much help as it can get right now...:thumbsup: To tell the truth, their bumper looks like it uses steel more efficiently than the ones that I have made. Mine are built way beefier than I think I would ever need them to be. I am probably hauling around 10-15 pounds of extra steel with me everywhere I go, but that comes with the lack of owning a precision plasma cutter. :rotf: So, all of you that were/are interested in me building you a bumper, I really encourage you to check their product out. JCR Offroad is a great business that I have had nothing but good things to say about. Plus, their price is pretty much the same as what I was charging. http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... y_Code=MJB However, if you decide to build your own bumper, don't hesitate to ask me any questions. I am more than happy to answer them for you! - Brent

As far as the slave cyl. reuse... I am using the BA-10 on in mine. I think it might depend on what year trans you have, mine came out of an '89 YJ if that helps...

I could get you a length for the driveshaft if you plan on doing an SYE kit on the 231... I'm running the same setup in mine AX-15/231/D44...

Been away from the net for awhile, sorry for the late reply... I talked about the swap here on page 7 of the thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2024&start=90 If you plan on using the 2wd trans, you will most likely put more money into converting it over to a 4wd trans than it would cost you to just go buy a 4wd trans. If you can get the t-case and trans together then you will know you will have a setup that will work for you. If you buy them separate you will need to make sure your spline counts and input shafts are going to work. Like you said, the driveshafts can be intimidating... I am still using a stock front driveshaft from an XJ. You can usually find these in junkyard driveshaft buses. The rear one can be shortened down to fit your needs. To shorten the shaft this is what I do. (You must have the trans and T-case mounted in the Jeep to do this). Remove the U-joints from the shaft and clean the shaft up. Now take a scribe and scratch a line between the yokes on each end. This will help you realign them when you weld the yoke back into the shaft. Cut the yoke off of the end of the shaft, I did this to the axle end. Then I took a pipe cutter and cut the shaft at the desired length, this also made my cut in the shaft nice and square to the tube. I tried to keep the same amount of slip left on the slip yoke so I measured accordingly and cut the shaft there. Now I ground the end out of the part of the shaft that I cut off and put it back in the shortened shaft. Line it back up with the lines you made in the shaft and weld it back up. Ta Da. Also, for the best results, use ONLY Spicer U-Joints when you put everything back together... Hope that helps. Any questions just ask...

Lookin Good Pat!

x400. keep the black wheels on all year, Brent! Yah. I do have alot of money wrapped up in those Aluminum rims though, and I really like the look of them for use as the daily driver. The black ones don't ERK me bad though. I do like them to an extent. Plans are to probably keep the black ones on there for awhile and wear the tires down to nothing. Then I can go out and get myself a NICE set of lightly used treads to put back on them. Baja Claws, Mud Terrains, etc... Have a set of tread for the streets and one for the trails... I always get too worried about hitting the aluminum wheels on rocks and whatnot when I'm on the trail. The steelies I don't care about. ;)

If you are careful enough, with lots of patience you can actually cut the spring perches off of the D44 and reuse them. I cut them most of the way, then pryed and hammered them off the rest of the way. They are beefy suckers and I had no reservations about rewelding them back on the tube. As for the shock mounts. I just hacked them off and used the stock MJ ones...

Been there with the T-case - last fall. My front seal leaked and it eventually ran the thing dry. Ate up my mode fork in the process... After I put the different SYEed one in, I check the fluid levels religiously... Looks like your Bro has a nice one there... TTYL Take Care

Been there with the T-case - last fall. My front seal leaked and it eventually ran the thing dry. Ate up my mode fork in the process... After I put the different SYEed one in, I check the fluid levels religiously... Looks like your Bro has a nice one there... TTYL Take Care

CW - Haven't seen you around on the boards? How is everything?

CW - Haven't seen you around on the boards? How is everything?

Well, its that time of year again. Time to swap the steelies on...

Well, its that time of year again. Time to swap the steelies on...

Spicer U-Joints for the best results... I did the SYE kit on my '88. Smooth as glass with 5.5" lift SUA. I also did the '97+ conversion on my '90. Pretty easy to do once all of the parts are gathered for it...