500 MJ

Looks like an Eliminator!

Some guys swap the HO cover onto the Renix motor. Probably what I'll end up doing soon to mine.

Did the roof rack look like it had been used much? I could see some skis / snowboards chipping the paint like that but not denting the roof if they were just thrown up there and tied down.

Thought about it some more... Lets just make it simple, bring me your best complete motor and I'll have $500 cash here waiting for you. The XJ is an automatic, doesn't matter what the motor is that you bring, I have the parts to convert it if need be. I'm glad that I am able to help fund the trip of a fellow CC member. - Brent

Check to see if the seal around the headlight is broken. The headlight can still work and the seal be broken. I had one that was dark on my '90 when I got it, headlight worked but when I went to take the headlight off, the glass front and the light separated in my hand.

Dizzy = Distributor? I don't need the accessories, I'll vouch that everything on the motor works fine except it has the knock. The XJ is a '90 so depending on the overall condition of the motors available, I'd prefer to go with one of the two '90s to keep things kosher. The way I look at it, I'm going to pull the accessories from my motor either way when I take it out of the Jeep, I'll keep a few parts (going to scavange the EGR tube for sure - the '88 MJ needs it) and the block will go for scrap. If you're cool with bringing me a complete motor, I'll hand you over all of the accessories from mine? Whichever way we do this will work for me. I had the chance to do the rebuilder thing - but I ended up not wanting to invest the time into it. Time is something I don't have much of these days. Looking for one that I can pull out the old motor and plop the "new" in and we're good to go. I assume you take cash, especially if I print it fresh for you? What day are you planning on being in the greater Wisconsin area? I'm usually home around 5 CST.

Jim - do you have any '87-'90 4.0L engines laying around? I'm in the market for a good running one to swap into our winter driver XJ. Current motor runs but it has a knock. Is southern Wisconsin too far out of your way?

D-35 or D-44? I think that they are different.

If you don't have one, I've got a good one here in Madison w/endcaps... Came off of one of Correy's Jeeps, yours if you need it. Ben can stop in and pick it up? I'm assuming he is bringing I-90 or I-94...

Got two of them at a yard (both '87 model year and they were still good), no longer need any.

but yeah, i do know what you are talking about... :thumbsup: OK - This is not cool. Might as well come clean and consider the secret out now Wade, we'll be hounding you until you decide to enlighten us. :peek:

Chrome handle X2 Should have painted it a glossy bright color too IMHO Still serves your purpose either way I guess :thumbsup:

Thanks Rob. I'll keep that in mind. I'll see if anything else turns up, I'd like to have something that I can hear run before I buy it.

I'm still on the hunt for a turn-key motor. The 4.0L we have now in our XJ has a knock and will need to be swapped out before winter. I'm wondering if anyone close to me has anything. Shoot me a PM with all of the details, price, mileage. If I can hear it run, its a big plus. Willing to travel a few hours from Central WI for the right motor. Thanks in advance - Brent

Looks GREAT!

Likin the Geolanders?

There it is! Really nice shape. The rear slider slides over to the passenger side of the cab. I had to put some Vaseline in the channels to get mine to move freely.

Agreed.

Sounds great - let me know how it looks. Thanks!

NICE GRAB!

Proof why only I (or someone I can trust) get to drive MY vehicles. IMHO, the FD or the PD are not who the owner needs to go after for the replacement costs of the vehicle...

Awesome!

Black or Chrome?

nobody has anything?

Pull them and weld the holes shut. Then re-install them. This leaves the options open for you in the future. If you need to remove them after you have painted them for whatever reason, you can easily remove them. Say you need to change out the window regulator or something, they are probably currently removable because they need to be removable to remove something else. This also lets you paint the inside of the door skin and keeps the amounts of potentially unpainted steel down to a minimum. I think I talked to you about how to weld on sheet-metal. Use a piece of thick flat copper (you can rig some magnet and spring thing up to hold it to the panel while you weld). Weld into the copper and the steel will come out flat because it won't stick to the copper. The thicker the copper, the better. It works as a heat sink for you. Keep WET a cloth handy to quench the steel as you go. Keep the heat out of it and it won't warp for you.