Wounded_Fighter

Looking for anything wrong or improvements I should look at? I know I'm stuck in open loop, and stuck in lean mode no matter what my o2 sensor reads 0.2v all the way to 4.95v Short term and long term never move either? Image from the xjbluetalk app with rem v5 bluetooth Idle after 30mins of operation 70mph 25mins operating.

Just finished replacing all the connectors on it. 2hours lol 5 of the connectors were only half connectors... the corrosion was horrid in there too. Some on the firewall as well as the panel was loose in the firewall itself. Yikes. /Fixed? Testing tomorrow.

I seen the arcing while pushing on it, but it looked like it was inside the fuse. It didnt break. Looks like I may have to redo some of my fuse panel then... time to hunt down the internal connectors then?

I'm discovering a similar problem on my jeep now... the blower/ac worked fine for a year. Gone all of a sudden. Not warm, not anything. No fan, no ac, on any speed. Got down to the fuse, surprise surprise... the fuse is charred. Odd side note on mine is with and speed set, I can push the fuse in and it will turn on.... I think I have a fuse box demon. I'm going to follow this and go over my ac wiring now too

Just did the pacesetter swap on mine. Was disappointed that the collector pipe contacted the bell housing and required.... modification. One bolt on the bottom end of the manifold could not be torqued. Overall I'm happy with it so far. Only on day 2 driving after install though.

I would walk up with 1500, have you sign the title, hand you the 1500, and drive away with it without saying a single word and while trying to make it extremely awkward at the same time. Bit far for me though. It would go fast at 1500 imo.

Somewhere between 500-1200, depending on how she feels that day

Think this almost needs to be moved to vendor tab at this point Haha

My local steel surplus calls them galvanized slotted channel bar. I had done something similar to a Dakota a few years back.

Seen lots of his videos, that noise actually turned out to be piston slap for him. His videos is where I decided to just replace the lifters since mine wasn't the slapper clapper.

Interesting... This might be what I was thinking looking at them again Check, done. Because I found 2 that walked out on their own. Will check No, gauge works good, tested. Will check Possibly Will check Maybe even as simple as a sticking valve? T/C will be, have a new gearset Pan has been off and R/M already done. Done already Definitely thinking about it..... Time, which I suspect will bite me in the @$$ later. Newer balancer already on. New pump in hand. I believe it is, but open to opinion on temps. Pics to follow. But my main reasons for pulling the head are as follows. #1 Coolant dripping on my exhaust near the rear main.....?? #2 lifter tap. #3 inspect valves. #4 exhaust leak (head didnt have to come off for that, but fix anyway) Both upper and lower hoses have been replaced, and heater hoses bypassed since my core failed in cab. Pics, Night: (didnt notice it was blurred) meh... Day:

Didnt seem at all dirty when I had the valve cover off. Heads coming off anyway so I'll be giving it a good cleaning

I've already had the bottom end off and checked for piston skirt slap and clearance, 95% sure it's a lifter

Even with a sever lifter tap? Suppose I should do the cam too then? It pretty much runs itself around 185-190 down the freeway I know it's not designed at that temp but, it doesn't seem to me like the needle is at 195+ ever. Not saying it's right at all, but it's what it seems to do? Egr delete, charcoal canister delete. I was assuming the same but mine has studs and I'm not sure of their condition so I'm replacing with new arp studs. The through-bolt being the 'piviot'-bolt between the two mounts correct?

Got most of the parts and torque specs I need. Parts include, head gasket, valve seals, lifters, intake/exhaust gasket, new header(pacesetter), head studs and nuts, sealant for head stud #11, thermostat 185f, thermostat gasket, new high flow water pump, pump gasket, timing chain and sprockets, timing cover gasket, pulley seal, motor mounts (browndog) I don't have a torque spec for motor mount to block or to frame, couldn't locate. Anyone know it? What am I missing or what else should I replace while I'm in this deep...?

Every answer is correct. Curious what others have installed. But yeah, I suppose it is a loaded question. I'll read up on some more of your stuff jeep, and check out that link tonight.

I have a few ideas in my head, mainly looking for what the stock specs are supposed to be and what people have gotten away with fitting.

Looking to do a sound system update, so I'm gathering thoughts and information. What are the factory speaker sizes in each location? And what size have you made "comfortably fit" in each location, preferably without visible modification. What size sub can you fit behind your benchseat, my guess is a 15" but who has actually done this? 4" rounds in dash? 5.25" rounds in doors? 5x7" in rears? Is this correct stock information? Did comanche come with door speakers? Mine doesn't have a slot in the panel for it?

So far so good, got rid of some of the fuel scent too! Maybe it was seeping out of the old line a little.

Why would they sell line not rated for ethonal....? Yeah I just spent 20$ on 4ft. I see the difference.

Why would "newer" rubber fuel line near the fuel cell be cracking/failing just a few months after installed? I've purchased new hose to replace it but I feel like I'm just putting a bandaid on it.

If it's a BA10/5 2wd and 4x4 I'd be curious to know if the output shaft lengths are different or the same on the transmission.

Anyone ever seen/use these? Wonder if they fit. Thinking of gambling and ordering one to see. https://www.4wd.com/p/crown-automotive-floor-pan-plugs-j4000334/_/R-BKMN-J4000334 Edit, they have 2 different ones https://www.4wd.com/p/omix-ada-floor-plug-12033-15/_/R-BKGF-12033.15

Curious about this cupholder lol

Guess its conversation time.