Wounded_Fighter

seems to be a limited warranty per the website, but doesn't specify a timeframe? I'm just going to go with another one for ease of process...

Well... Temp gun to the rescue? across the head at temp is relative to the REM & guages 220, and temp gun shows 210 on the head front to back water inlet hose... 95... water outlet hose 95... water pump 110 thermostat housing was at 150 Looks like a failed water pump...? aside from that... typical electrical gremlins... multimeter doesn't read.. soo time to chase grounds and make sure their good. even across battery posts + to - no volts displayed even though REM & dash shows good running voltage as a dummy test, I tried the spare fan against the leads and on another vehicles battery posts for a comparison, Results were satisfactory.

The fan setup is from either K-Suspension or mishimoto, with dirtbounds shroud because mishimoto shroud didn't fit their own radiator 😅 I'm going to check resistance and voltage across them when I get home from work... If I have to ill be swapping fans, I believe I have spares?

no, but purged, flushed, and tested prior to use. only the t-stat and fluid is new ill dig em up. assuming it was less then 1800rpm & 40mph? didnt exceed 10miles.

full rebuild and cleaning yes new new new. I'm kinda sad its overheating after throwing so much into it. its not my first engine build, but definitely the most troubled so far haha

boiled over... so its accurate lol forgot brand 27's stock gear

New rebuilt block! Still overheating? items installed..... *Mishimoto Aluminum 3 core radiator *Aftermarket Hi-Flow Pump *Triple E-fan with shroud *Replaced O2 sensor (Had 0.72AFR / New O2 shows 0.92AFR Rich still?) *12hole injectors (Stock # Injector) *Open loop cooling *overbored throttle body (done by a member on this site in the past) Throttle position & sensor adjusted to 17% it still hits 235F+ Currently... Thoughts?

Fairly certain it's not electrical 😉

Fired the parts cannon Parts cannon fired back. New crank, bearings, etc. Tq to spec 80ftlb, in tq order. Harmonic balancer bolt over-torques before crank will spin. ( no pistons or anything else on yet ) Plastiguage set at 0.003 all the way down the crank. Stumped. Thoughts? Help...?

Truth, I haven't been on here...

I did indeed. She's still a dd, just two tone for now

Is there an acceptable amount of knock? I assume not, but if there is... How much knock is too much knock? I'm looking at 94KNO @ 3600rpm (4th gear, speedo pegged on the needle... 85+) and roughly 20KNO @ 1500rpm, 0-4KNO @ idle

So, I got the old one replaced. Didn't look bad in there, there was some corrosion buildup starting on the internal of the switch itself. Lots fell out when I got it out. Despite its rather good condition. I replaced it anyway since these things have a tendency to burn the truck to the ground out of nowhere...

Yes rain, no on the windshield recently replaced, was garaged for 9months prior to replacement. New doors & window seals. Only water getting in currently is pass side from a wire plug hole i haven't managed to source yet and driver cab vent pillar I believe. Also the gauge cluster was torn down and reassembled with a small bead of sealant so, not sure how moisture would get inside it. Not saying its impossible... water finds a way...

Got a new switch at o'reilly's since I work there. (For the discounts). P/N DS220 for anyone looking for one. Brand is Standard Ignition (Not a typical stock item.) Waiting for part to come in then ill rip into the dash to see what I see... I'll report findings for curious people. Currently using a different vehicle for night driving. Refuse to use the switch till i know for sure. I'm not burning my just rebuilt truck to the ground....

Anyone have a lead on a replacement one handy?

What would cause this...? Seems like my headlight switch? When I turned it off the fog went away, could this mean I have a short or possible fire soon? I've already completed the relay harness upgrade.

Well yes ... if its 4x4

I would. Unless your replacing the shaft for a longer one to compensate the added travel and resting height.

It will still leak some because of the downward lean towards the back end. With driving it will spin the fluid also so you'll have the lovely "leak line" on the under carriage too. "Some" fluid. Very relatively. If its a lot. You may hear new noises from transmission. 😆

Would be true if it wasn't all e-fans. Pretty sure its good...? I can see flow in the reservoir so my thought is the prop is at least still spinning... but maybe the tstat is jammed...

So, as we all know. I'm not quite the nicest person to my jeep. I like to go fast and she likes to please me. However starting Sunday she's not been very happy with me... hitting Temps of 228 at times, and probably would keep climbing if I didnt get to move again. Running down interstate she stays at 208. Idle after that temp it climbs quick. I have no tell tale signs of anything wrong....? Pump isn't weeping Coolant is full Oil is at level. Even did a fan upgrade, to Ksuspension's cyclone system. Need to do leakdown check/compression test in cylinders again.

Few weeks ago it was two 4.0s in the bed. Tomorrow its a cummins 5.9l 24v for 110miles.

TAKE MY MONEY!

My buddys MJ had a similar issue mostly under gear 2or higher and real bad in a turn. driveshaft had slop... This happened... Apparently he still covered 200 miles like this... without knowing...