89 MJ

I don’t think anyone makes them, you’ll have to make your own. This thread may help you:

Could it be something wrong with the ECU?

You are correct, you will need a puller. You can typically rent them from parts stores if you don't have one.

You would probably have to pull the steering wheel and then the turn signal switch to be able to inspect everything. I have had this same thing if some oil gets spilled on the exhaust manifold. The smoke can travel up the column and out the turn signal hole.

That's a good point. It would probably also let you prove the real value of the truck, not whatever number the insurance company thinks its worth.

I don’t know how exactly all of the insurance stuff works in CA, but you might be able to go through your insurance and then your insurance will go after the other insurance company for payment. My parents have had to do this twice in WI, once with a person who failed to provide accurate insurance info to the police several times and another time when they got hit by an uninsured driver. Neither case resulted in their insurance rates going up. Being that their insurance company is dragging this out, it might be worthwhile to call your agent and see what you can do.

Fight for more then. Could you take it to a body shop for an estimate and then would they write you a check for that?

It wouldn’t cost that for you to fix it yourself, so if you’re good with it, take it.

Those look perfect on there

That is open by design. It allows the tailgate to be removable that way. I've heard of people putting a hose clamp around it to prevent it from moving (mainly to prevent theft).

It would’ve had to be from another XJ or MJ. The YJ didn’t get the 4.0 until 1991.

The top picture is a stock housing from a 258 powered Jeep. The second pic is a stock one for a 96 XJ. I bet that XJ was pretty fun!

In my defense, there were some SJ ones before that! Lol

I think I would trim the rear most part of the 97 bumper end caps off like you were thinking.

Save yourself the mess and leave the PS pump in the engine bay hooked up to the box. To be honest, I would pull all of the accessories off. In my opinion, it is much easier, especially if you are doing it by yourself.

Definitely seems like you’re on the right track with Moog stuff. I would do a hodgepodge of suspension stuff. Probably Core4x4 control arms if you need better ones than stock. Either Old Man Emu or Rubicon Express springs because they seem reasonably priced and I’ve heard good things about them. For shocks, I’d do either the higher end Monroes or KYBs if I were on more of a budget and Fox or Bilsteins if money wasn’t as much of a concern. These are just the brands I would choose though. Really, just about anything should be fine. I’ve just never heard anything good about rough country, especially their shocks.

Welcome! Sorry to hear about your father. You’ve come to the right place for help. I’ll say what I’m sure most of us are thinking, let’s see some pictures of the truck. Please drop your VIN in the registry and you’ll get a build sheet in a few days.

I don’t think they were labeled from the factory, but it’s been a while since I’ve had the pan off of a 4.0. I’d be doing a rebuild too if I were you.

Welcome to the forum! Is this truck an off road toy or will it spend time on the road? I would just run a Monroe or KYB steering stabilizer. That said, you’ve already got it. If you can’t return it, you might as well run it. Is the N3 stuff their higher end parts or is that regular stuff? If it’s a higher quality part, it might be worth a shot.

What you took a picture of would be considered the frame side because it mounts to the frame bracket. The axle side would be the mount on the front axle. In theory, you shouldn't need to jack it up before removing the bolt. The goal of the track bar is to keep the axle from moving side to side, so at ride height, it should be in a neutral position. That said, its an old truck, things might not be perfectly how they left the factory.

What ratrapp said. That's the joint end. What you're seeing there is the dust cover. You'll need to remove the bolt and move the track bar at the axle side to see if the axle side of the track bar mount is worn out.

Sorry to hear about your father. Sounds like you have a lot of good memories with him and the Comanche. I’m looking forward to the updates on this truck.

Seeing that pic of the rear suspension has me thinking there probably was a bad axle wrap problem. Those spring perches are awfully tall, but good for a little bit more lift.

You can also bypass the ballast resistor with no negative effects. Just hook the two wires attached to the ballast resistor together.