AZJeff

That's odd. I downloaded one of the PDF's I uploaded and was able to open it using "Preview" on my Mac computer. It's not crystal clear, but I can read all the text when I blow it up to a size bigger than 8.5 x 11 inches. I will try it using Adobe, and see if it opens clearly or not. If necessary, I will figure out another way to capture those pages in a bigger format.

Virginia, I posted the wiring diagrams for the 1990 model year, and I seriously doubt if those circuits had a color change in the wires for 1991 (the year of your MJ.) I would check those if I were you.

Black urethane glass adhesive (used to attach windshields to the body opening) is the ideal agent. Any glass shop should be able to do both windows for a few bucks, and it’s UV tolerant, more than RTV.

OP---what year is your vehicle? I might have the wiring diagrams for the factory radio and the dome/courtesy lights that can help you chase down the issues you are having.

I second that philosophy. In vehicles that have been owned my multiple persons before me, and I see ANY type of NON-FACTORY wiring, I almost invariably remove it all and start over. So much stuff that is added in by first, second, third, and fourth owners is hacked up garbage that often causes problems that can be very mysterious (and possibly dangerous). Several things that usually are clues to hacked wiring include: 1. wires twisted together to create a splice (instead of crimped or soldered) 2. use of that junky/sticky vinyl electrical tape to insulate connections (extra negative points for using duct tape or scotch tape!) The right thing to use is heat shrink tubing. 3. use of "wire nuts" intended for household wiring 4. use of "Scotchlock" connectors in under-hood applications, where they are exposed to adverse elements and can corrode. 5. any strange wires added to the fuse block by cramming them in behind the fuse blade. (They actually make a gadget that allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot and still retain the existing fuse while making reliable connection.) 6. any added circuits that get power that is unfused (talk about a fire waiting to happen.) My recommendation to anyone with a vehicle containing this kind of stuff is to (1)get the factory wiring diagrams for your vehicle and (2)start trying to redo any connections that exhibit any of the above characteristics.

Another tool that might help after the Five-way suggested by Pete M is an indexing pry bar like this one

So since you seem to have experience with the TransGo shift kits, give us some feedback on how you feel your AW-4 behaves once the shift kit was installed. I am considering one, and am curious as to the net results.

If all the major pieces of your system are in good working order, they should not need replacing in order to do a conversion. This means you should be able to reuse the evaporator, condenser, and compressor. The hoses "might" be able to be reused, assuming they don't have any cracks or dry rot visible on them. Even if all the hoses are good to go, you will need to replace all of the O-rings that seal the connections between the hoses and various other pieces of the system. The newer O-rings are compatible with the R134a style refrigerant, and the old ones are probably dried out and hardened, thus creating potential leak sources. The one piece of the system you SHOULD replace is the reciever/drier, also known as the accumulator. IT contains a desiccant in it, and that wears out over time. In addition, the accumulator contains a large portion of the lubricating oil that circulates in the system. Although leaving the old oil in the system with the new R134a isn't a problem, removing that old oil will provide a TINY increased volume of new refrigerant, and thus help performance SLIGHTLY. When you do the conversion, you will need to purchase adapter fittings that convert the old screw-on type service ports to the quick-connect type used with R134a. When you do this, I recommend you change the schrader valves in the service ports because hte old seals are probably dried and leaking already. Of course, you will need to add the appropriate amount of R134a compatible oil. That amount would be the same as the amount of oil the R12 system used. The best way to do this is to pour the oil into various parts of the system while you have the hoses disconnected. You should put about 60% of the new oil into the accumulator, 25% into the condenser, and 10% into the compressor, and the remaining 5% into the evaporator. Once all rebuilt with the pieces I described above, you will need to evacuate the system and charge it with 80% (by weight) of whatever your system took with R12. If you have questions, fire away.

I dug around in my 1990 shop manual, and I found the wiring diagrams related to the seat belt chime system, plus the radio and clock systems. A cursory scan of those diagrams makes me think you have killed the ground to a bunch of stuff by cutting that wire to the seat belts, but I have not spent a ton of time tracing all the paths. I have attached the diagrams in some PDF's for you to dig into further. CLOCK WIRING.pdf RADIO.pdf SEAT BELT.pdf

Magnetti Marelli? You mean the Italian Lucas?

I went digging around in my 1990 Jeep Shop Manual, and it says that optimal clutch air gap is 0.016 to 0.031" Attached is a drawing of measuring the air gap.

Tight applies when using the OEM style gasket. If you switch to a Remflex, one should be careful to not get too rambunctious with the wrench, because the Remflex gasketcan be over tightened

Checking pressures when hot are ALWAYS a good idea when diagnosing compressor issues. That said, my thought is that your clutch is suffering a slow heat related failure.

The attached picture shows the factory recommended sequence for tightening the bolts. The torque spec. is 24 ft-lbs, but I just tighten them by my calibrated forearm developed from years of working on vehicles. The most important thing is to make sure the manifold gasket is in good shape. The 4.0 manifold/cyl. head interface isn't the worlds best design, and has a tendency to develop leaks using the OEM type gasket. After the guys on Com. Club pointed me to the "Remflex" gaskets, I have had no further problems with manifold gasket leaks on my MJ.

If you have tested the coolant and have confirmation that there are exhaust gas products present, the first thing I would do is to run a compression test or leak down test before taking any further action. That test will tell you a bunch about how good the overall block is, particularly if the cylinder/ring/piston condition is worth investing more in the engine, or if it's time to swap engines.

I have 97+ plastic handles on my MJ, and I replaced the rasty OEM ones with Taiwanese copies. They are, for all practical purposes, exact copies of Mopar handles.

I have buckets in my MJ, and I bought the kind where the inboard (female) half of the belt has a stiff cable covered with plastic that holds the buckle up where it can be reached easily.

When I put new seat belts in my MJ, I went with stuff from Seat Belts Plus. Here is exactly what I ordered, but you can adjust to meet your needs: MJ Seat Belts

DUH. I failed to read the part about the "two pin connector", and just assumed it was the high voltage side. I agree with you in that the best/easiest/fastest solution would be to just extend the existing wires by solder and heat shrink tubing.

I am confused. Is the OP wanting a custom-length coil "high tension" wire, or an extension to the DC feed wires for the low voltage terminals on the coil?

Try going to a speed shop and have them make a custom coil wire to meet your length requirements. A run-of-the-mill auto parts store only stocks standard OEM sized and length stuff.

Those tubes are definitely some sort of copper alloy. The plates to which they are attached may be steel (magnet check to confirm). The only interesting part would be the fins. I suspect they are aluminum, but without a closeup view of how the tubes pass through them, any bonding that might be involved is anyones guess.

Mine has a cut down XJ panel. It's fits perfectly, until you get to the back where the rear cab wall is. The OEM MJ panel had a curved portion that came down to join the cab smoothly. A cut down XJ panel lacks that. My solution was to make an "L" shaped aluminum piece that is bonded to the cab JUST above the window gasket, and it goes up enough to support the back of the cut off XJ headliner panel. I covered it in headliner material so it looks pretty invisible. The headliner "board" on an MJ, as such, is make out of the really cheesy fiber material with a foam core. I have repaired those using a layer of fiberglass cloth and resin on both sides of the damaged areas. (I cleaned up the nasty parts first so the resin would bond to the old headliner board well. Once the fiberglass has set and is cleaned up of any little fibers that stick up, new headliner fabric can be attached with spray adhesive as normal.

That's kinda interesting. (Retired mech. engineer here). Modern heat exchangers are made from aluminum due to low cost, easy fabrication, and good thermal conductivity. (Not as good as copper, but pretty close.) Some portions of the heat exchangers are joined using what called "dip brazing", which is a form of soldering used on aluminum structures. Dip brazing only works on aluminum-to-aluminum joints, so copper tubes with aluminum fins would have to rely an a close (interference) fit between the tube and the hole in the fin. It's not optimal, but it can work.

Are the old evaporators made with copper/brass, or aluminum, like the new ones? I know all the old heater cores were copper and brass, and have switched to aluminum, of course.