eaglescout526

Need the whole bezel? Cup with handle and lock button or just the spring?

We wouldn’t ban you outright. The only accounts that have been banned are the link spammers where they post the scam links. But you wouldn’t get banned. We would investigate before such an extreme and even then we probably still wouldn’t ban your account.

No they aren’t vehicle specific. Same ECU between both platforms. The only difference I know exists is that the 87-90 YJ used a Wide Open Throttle sensor vs 87-90 on the MJ/XJ.

I believe @boxyjeep makes a bracket for the HO bottle you have there

At the moment no. I gotta find them and spaced to look for them last night. If I remember right, one was a little warped.

No they can do some great designing and engineering. They just can’t win wars haha.

I mightttttt but they may not be in good shape though.

Glad that was a simple fix. I don’t have any literature on the HO stuff and would have been no absolute help whatsoever.

I’m literally not gonna be a lot of help cause I live on the surface of the sun and haven’t had many cold start issues. Though when I lived at my parents, my MJ was outside and during the winter it was pretty damn cold at 7am and would notice slight sluggish start and just would attribute such to being cold out on everything. There’s a reason why batteries have cold cranking amps posted on them and it’s to tell you how many amps it will still make during the cold weather. So say you have a G 34 batter with 750CCA. Now it’s super sluggish and not starting. It could be putting out 500CCA or less. Amperage is the driving force of electrical currents. AC or DC. If it’s not sending enough Amps to the starter to really crank over that massive chunk of iron, it’s not gonna go anywhere. Now to it stumbling and failing and then restarting with no issue could be a whole new issue of its own. But you can’t know for certain while fighting this cold start issue.

Don’t need one right now. In your travels to a yard. Would like to keep my inventory stocked.

Heh. So here’s the truth. AMC built three tanks for the long bed when the MJ was introduced. Diesel 23.5 gas 16 gas. The three straps mean nothing for capacity and the three tanks are the same exact size. If your tank is original AMC equipment, there should be a data plate by the sending unit that will give you a date and capacity. If it’s been swapped it won’t have that plate. if your tank is only taking 12gal you probably have the 16 and the wrong sending unit. The difference between the two units is the float arm. The 16 is much shorter than the 23. What makes the 23 and 16 so different is the filler tube internally. The filler tube on the 16 reaches deeper down inside the tank vs the 23.

Sounds like Novak. They’re good for helping you build the drivetrain you want but not the Jeep you want. Yes you’ll need a bigger radiator. The bay is barely sufficient enough to cool the 4.0L later on. There’s some builds in the epic builds section that should have some V8’s that will give you some ideas on what issues or ideas you’ll be looking for to do your swap.

You should still have plenty of room to change out to a V8. But changing the front clip on an 86 wont be easy in terms of using a 87-96 set up for the 4.0L radiator if thats where your thoughts are at. Only because the front set up for the 84-86 is different than the 87-96. If i recall the front fenders and the way the front header panel mount together differently than the later years. Course you can just get a whole donor and swap all over to get you a 4.0L radiator set up. But dont quote me, I could be wrong on that.

Well yours being an HO, you probably won’t have the trans fuse as that’s more of a Renix thing. This being said, have you checked all fuses related to the circuit? If you had some frayed wires, probably grounded out on something and popped a fuse.

Wild idea. What are the thoughts of an auto parts store sending the line off and having it remade?

Hard line to the HVAC could be dry rotted. Not uncommon of an issue since the hard plastic lines are almost 40 years old.

All the football does is hold vac for both HVAC controls and cruise control. 86 is the odd year for the 2.5L But if you have the V6 2.8L, that’s a whole other story.

Typically it would be more fuel yes. They have no relation to cranking speed. But you mentioned the MAP sensor which just measures the pressure not the air temp. Like Carter said in your other thread, battery, battery cables having resistance and starter would contribute to such. Hell starter relay could if it’s not fully engaging to throw the bendix out to engage the starter. I would suspect starter last since the cold weather has brought on this issue.

MAT and CTS. It uses those temps to determine if a cold start is needed.

Looks like the terrible crown cover. IF it ever fails, ive got a couple hard OEM plastic covers. Or aluminum is a route to go too.

4 speed would make it an AX4 manual. Thats just based on your photos above with the 3 pedals.

If its been converted from 2 to 4wd, it should have either an AX5 5 speed or the AX4 4 speed manual with a 231 transfer case unless they went old and found a 207. On the off chance they found a 4cyl AW4 to throw in(stupid rare). Axles should be D30 front and D35 rear unless it has the metric ton package then it could have a D44

Woah!!! That’s really cool!

I genuinely wonder if this car has some sort of sick humor and enjoys putting me through hell. So while putting the drivers head on, one bolt and its threads were fighting me on threading in nice and easy. So I took the head back off to see what was going on. While doing so, I was playing with the dipstick tube to see if I could pull it out. Well not only did I pull it out, but it broke! So I had to hammer the broken end into the oil pan. Pan needs to come off anyways to inspect everything and I also suspect that someone used the pan to jack up the car at one point as it looks pushed in and flat. Heres where I am at now. Starting to look like an engine again. Have a new timing cover on the way. Damn... theres so much to do on such a finite budget. I do have plans to step away from the traditional rocker arms and go with the roller style that adds a little extra power. I also have plans to yank some 350 heads to hang on to, rebuild and put on one day when I want to get a little more power out of the 403.

Let’s test the resistance on those sensors when it’s dead cold and see what it sees. There’s a chart somewhere that cruiser would often post. If not I’ll grab a pic later from one of my manuals of the values for certain temps.