eaglescout526

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - PLASTIC BUCKET SEAT -ZZ AWJ Visibility Group CGX Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GEC Window - Left Side, Front, Sliding GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GTZ MIRRORS - MANUAL REMOTE HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JFH TACHOMETER - MECH JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MD8 Delete Front License Plate Bracket NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NFA TANK - 20 GAL FUEL SBA POWER STEERING Build date 10/8/85 Body code JL62

03764863-front signal sockets J8128931-tail/stop/turn socket And for giggles 83502744-reverse socket

Have you tried applying direct power to the pump to verify if it actually works still?

That socket is also replaceable. Here let me get you some part numbers.

That wire should be in that socket and to remove a bulb from all sockets, just push down and turn counter clockwise

I mean you could go to the junkyard or you could order them new. Your call. Also just follow above what I said about removing the socket and just remove the bulb and look inside the socket.

Sockets are the things the bulbs plug and twist into. Not sure if I’m readin into that right but that’s all they are. If you remove your front headlamp bezel and remove the unscrew the turn signal housing, you should find a plastic like socket plugged into the housing. And to fix you would just order newer style XJ sockets and splice them into the harness while cutting off the old socket.

The top two lenses on the tails light up with running and turn signals. Also your lights on and not blinking when the lever is moved sounds like the grand old classic symptom of back socket grounds. If you haven’t replaced the sockets with the newer/older style metal sockets, then the problem lies in those Ford ranger sockets. The ground tab loves to rust in those sockets.

I recently just got an 84 Jeep warranty book that shows the zones that AMSC would ship their vehicles to. I might be able to go off that to get a rough idea as to what Chrysler’s zones are.

I’ll share my project later. I do have some fond funny moments.

I don't know how much of that info is public when searching a VIN. I mean we get presented with info that is confidential and info that will do no harm like the dealer of where your MJ was sold.

Dealership means.

Oh lord. I never understood why it was so hard to just have the one M in Comanche.

Well there’s a couple theories behind this. If you look at the 87’s Chrysler shows A-J-R dealers and even the early 87’s have dealer info so why shouldn’t the 86’s? So one theory could be is Chrysler didn’t care enough to hold that info for the older AMC Jeeps or its part of that info that was lost before Chrysler got into the digital era.

Don’t tempt me lol.

Amen to that!

You must have an old soul too. Or an appreciation for the old world.

Classic. I have never owned a car newer than me. All have been older and that’s the way I like it. But agreed.

The Fiat is a King of the Hill reference. but those are good ones lol. I feel the fix or repair daily will happen a lot.

Fix It Again Tony?

Thats the plan at least. I put some Mopar combustion cleaner down the hose just to let it sit and clear that gunk up. My coworkers said that stuff works pretty damn good at dissolving stuff like that 20 year old jellied gas.

The full fuel line from the tank to the pump? Thanks and indeed! Now hopefully I’ll either get to enjoy it or sell it depending on the future financial situation.

Yup! I’ll have to try as it seems like the line is super plugged and I don’t want to attempt to replace it. But I was gonna try brake cleaner or carb cleaner to get that stuff out.

I wish actually.... There’s more I have to do like replace the water pump and possibly the radiator. The fuel line is also plugged with what basically is dried up petroleum jelly so I have to clear that somehow. Then I have to do brake work. I could’ve easily drove the car had I had the radiator in and the lines for the trans cooler plugged in rather than it spurting ATF everywhere. Once that stuff is set and done, it should be basically drivable. Once I figure out what’s going on with the rest of the electrical.

Lol real mature.