ghetdjc320

I had the thor unit. It ditches the factory intake box so you do get some extra space there. Cab noise was a bit obnoxious. Maybe a slight power gain but it did seem to pickup maybe an extra mile per gallon. That was on a bored 4.0 though with cam, exhaust and aluminum head.

If you go with ECGS try to grab the “Dana 489” axle. It has the later larger ring and pinion in a 44 housing.

Project name updated

What are these?

Greetings! Where about in Arkansas are you located? I’m in the northwest corner for the time being

i bought nos maybe 18 months ago for about $30/set. All the hardware, original bag even. They sold with the truck. I do prefer the fit though of the XJ rears on the MJ.

Awesome build! What is you engine angle going to be relative to the ground?

I’d say the design fits the truck, go for it

Thanks! I used 3m panel bond which needs clean metal but everywhere that didn’t get panel bonder got epoxied and/or POR15’d. The factory pinch welds and seam sealers were a terrible design in certain areas imo. The water gets trapped in the seam and slowly starts the oxidation process. The rockers, floors, rear cab bulkhead and bed wheel arches are great examples of this

My outside rocker was rusted through but the inside was in good shape. Odd product to bring to market ahead of other items

@thecodemonk pretty much summed it up. It’s all the little stuff that adds up, my engine alone was much more than what you have listed. Mine is more of a turnkey swap but even so I needed a lot of extra parts. AC was a bit of a headache, a few sensor adapters, oil pan and stick swap, upgraded dampener, roller rockers and lifter trays to upgrade know failure points, fuel system upgrades and plumbing… the list goes on. Not super complicated but you’ll need a lot of extra nickels and dimes lol

Well, I’ve been down to many stroker roads to ever do one again. The cost to power trade off just isn’t there. As @neohic stated, it’s a very dated platform to begin with. I’m neck deep in the LS swap and as @Limeyjeeper said, it’s going to run you 10k plus to do a decent ls swap if you want a clean install. i wouldn’t use very much from novak aside from their radiator and motor mounts. They are very helpful but their products are lacking in thoughtful engineering imho. Id stick with just freshening up the 4.0 and probably gears or save up significantly more for an ls swap. Keep in mind that there are many GM engines that get labeled as an “LS” so there will be wildly varying results with the end product depending in what you use. I went the LS6 route as i don’t fell an ax15 can handle much more. But for a 4wd tranny, there isn’t a great alternative that has the closer gearing and compact size of the ax15. If you want to build an extra strong ax15, get a new unit from Aisin and send it to Marlin Crawler for their R151 upgrades. Even stock though, the ax15 can handle quite a bit of TQ and HP.

I’ve had bar style and t handle style flaring tools. OTC make a decent bar style flaring tool. The t handle one from titan works significantly better at producing quality flares consistently. None work as well as that K-tool unit in Limeys link. If you haven’t used one, you don’t know what your missing. Speed, quality and consistency are most excellent.

Not sure, haven’t driven it yet. Sits nicely though. Keep in mind that tubular control arms without flex joints really limit suspension flex and but a lot of stress on your bracketry. The stock stamped stew design was actually well thought out. The WJ arms are also designed to have flex at the joints but shortening the sleeve negates that design somewhat. That necessary modification is what kept me from going the WJ control arm route along with some “up country” front coils and some slightly longer shackles.

So do you want ones that look like the small pics or the larger one? Or do you want the larger one to just say Jeep instead of amx?

Is the 43mm portion removable? Maybe with a razor blade? If so, the design is very similar to the ones I’m making for the turbines. Is the lettering silver or chrome?

I run the bds 3” kit. That’s a 1.75” lift from the add a leaf rear. The leaf is about the same thickness as the factory leaves. You just need to redrill the locating pin hole to properly center them. Most add a leafs wil be for an XJ. You’re looking for one that is the right length so they are staggered propery in the pack. You could also go with a decent set of cherokee lift springs and just swap the main leaf with your MJ one. It’s been reported that it’s roughly a 1” difference in height. So basically, a 3.5” lift xj spring will net 2.5 on an MJ once the main leaf has been swapped.

Good info, I’ve been looking at those recently.

They are the center stickers that go on the caps. These are for my turbine caps but I can resize to fit others as well.

I can make them in almost any size if you get me the dimensions

@Pete M Feel like doing this?

Looks like a good kit. I’d double check to see what throw out bearing it uses though. If it’s not a National, Timken, Koyo or similar, chuck it and get one from the auto parts store that is one of the above. The best ~$50 you’ll spend while doing an external slave setup. You *may* also need the master cylinder 7/16 inverted flare to -3 AN adapter. The 91+ master cylinders used the roll pin retainer style master fitting but the older ones used a brake line style screw-in fitting. Looks like that may be in the kit though from AA.

Pair of NOS door handles along with the new door glass and tailgate lock actuator came in today. Will be doing a similar tailgate lock to what @Gjeep did in his build (thanks for that write up by the way) since I also have the locking Truck Covers USA cover thanks to @Limeyjeeper‘s assistance in getting these one-off covers manufactured for the Comanche.

Quick update: here is a design I ended up setting on. These are a bubble design so they aren’t an exact replica of the turbine wheel caps. I have a sample batch of these I’m trying but I can make slight variations if anyone wants some.

They are available at team cherokee. One side is just a washer and the other side has the captured nut. The nut side is available for sale and for the washer side you can use a plastic washer from the hardware store. Link to part: https://teamcherokee.com/front-or-rear-window-retainer-nut-oem-jeep-cherokee-1997-2001/