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I will say that personally all the plastic paints/dyes have let me down except for the Eastwood plastic restorer. It’s meant for black plastic but will convert other colors to black as well. It’s a pretty flat finish but you can get it to about a semi gloss if you keep adding layers. This stuff “burns” into the plastic quite well and I haven’t had it come off anywhere. I went with original black plastic pieces for the kick panels and door sills but the b pillars and back of can trim were all original grey panels. I used the Eastwood coating on all the pieces for a good match. Really looks great and held up perfectly. No matter how I prepped or what products I used, I could never get the sem to give me any durability. That being said, the sem did give a great finish aesthetically

Find out what they tightened. The stock bar itself is solid so knowing what they tightened will help you know what needs to be fixed

Curious what exactly they “tightened”. There is a nut on the tie rod end side that goes through the frame side bracket and also a bolt and flag nut on the axle side. They don’t normally some loose though. I could see a bad bushing, bad tre or a worked out axle side bolt hole. What track bar you may need depends a lot on lift height and tire size. The whole point of the track bar is to keep your axle centered with your truck and keep the suspension in line.

Warrior also makes a nice set. Part number 90783

1-2* below the ideal angle for your pinion depending on your setup. See the article posted above for reference on the ideal angle based on the type of driveshaft you’re running

You can get most stock style parts from rock auto. General spring can get you original style springs but you may sit a little higher than stock with those. You could go with possibly the XJ upcountry front springs that are about a 1” lift and they *may* match replacement rear springs. You may have to play around with a small spacer though to get it back to factory rake. Was the steering and track bar modded with the lift? Are there any control arm drop brackets in place?

That’s a clean install, very nice

I’ve also ordered plenty from them and boltdepot.com

On both my TJ and WRX I went with 5% ceramic tint. They have a clear ceramic film here they recommended and installed in the TJ. Seems to work very well as it cuts down the heat quite a bit but I can notice the slightest color variations through it when wearing polarized sun glasses.

This article gives a thorough explanation and includes videos and pics for reference. May be really helpful moving forward https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles

I used the same method as above once confirming the correct pushrod length. Set to zero lash then go a bit further (in my case that was one full turn)

Get a 7 blade mechanical fan for a 4.0 on eBay, the Napa/Hayden hd clutch and run an oem Mopar 2001 XJ 10 blade e fan as your aux fan. Also get the mech fan shroud. I’ve been down this road and that’s the only combo that really works. The MJ’s stock electrical doesn’t have the capacity to run 3 e fans of sufficient cfm to replace the stock setup at alternator voltage (+/-14v).

Does the temperature eventually hit a stopping point or does it just keep creeping up until it pegs out?

I had also heard the same thing but the airtex lasted the same as the carter for me. Pretty sure they are made by the same manufacturer

The carter or airtex work fine but don’t last very long from what I have seen. There area a few of us who have adapted other pumps like the Deatshwerks DW200 but it takes some modifications to fit. Here is rather simple way that I installed mine. Had to use the old rubber straps from the airtex pump along with a different pump strainer. At some point I may remove the upper pump retainer but for now it acts as a nice hose and wiring guide

I think the op is referring to thin plastic water shield behind the door panel. I used some 5mil plastic sheeting from Home Depot and trimmed it to fit on my previous MJ. On my current one I’m using 1/8” dynaliner

Keep in mind that the “park” function is part of the motor circuitry so don’t discount the motor altogether just yet even though it may not be your prime suspect. If your wipers don’t return to park when you shut them off at the switch, the motor circuit could be a likely culprit. If the wiper motor is original, it’s definitely worth cracking it open and cleaning up the contacts inside. There is a diy write up on it here in the master diy thread

I’ve never seen a dipstick in the regular sanden compressors, only the bigger York vertical compressors. Could you send a picture of what you have?

Failing to park can be the actual wiper motor and/or the black box or a wiring issue between the two. It’s a short 12v pulse that should kick on the intermittent sweep of the wipers. The wiper motor itself is responsible for completing the sweep and returning to park so long as it has solid 12v+ & ground at the motor.

On my 90 both hard lines were 3/8 but the return line necked down to 5/16 near the tank.

Is your ax15 transmission from an XJ? As for mods, I’ve built several strokers now. My key takeaway is “underwhelming performance for the amount of investment”. The last build i did was just a modified 4.0 and that was actually a decent engine but still cost several grand in parts alone

Very clean!

Use whatever shim you need to get the following angles based on your specific driveshaft type. Whatever angle needed to get the proper geometry, I like to take the pinion down about 1-2* from that point to account for axle tube twist under load.

Hopefully I got the redesigned unit! Sorry to hijack limey