ghetdjc320

That’s a very wide wheel for the tire width. Looks nice though

What kit is this?

Yep, this is a digitally controlled air outlet. It can air up or down tires to a specific preset very quickly. There is a blue sea power panel that will be installed next to it as well

If you haven’t found one yet, I can send you this one. Just cover shipping. I can drop it at the post office today.

Run the 1250 springs . Even those are a higher spring rate than most MJ’s came with.

I think that may be a difference between long bed and short bed

You could loosen it and wiggle it out of place, I suppose, to get the steering shaft to come free but there is still no need to do anything with the actual column

Although not original, these are very nice kits: https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/heavy-duty-flag-nut-with-arp-high-strength-ss-bolt ive ran them in all my Jeeps that use this style track bar setup

HEIC is a typical iPhone HD format and should be viewable on apple devices running the latest software. iPhone tends to default to this file format when taking pictures but it can be updated to use a more compatible file type (aka JPEG)

Why are you guys doing anything inside the cab to remove the steering shaft? All you need to do is loosen both bolts and the steering gear box. There is no need to loosen the steering column for this job

To remove the stock shaft, it’s easiest just to pull out the steering box. There are two retaining bolts on the shaft itself, one on each end.

PM sent

That’s it! Can I get one?

With a pre 90 knuckle, I'm thinking you could swap over the WJ rotors or run the WK rotors. The calipers I'm running are WK2 calipers and thy bolt on to the knuckles once the holes have been enlarged slightly.

Thanks for the info! I think the long standing unanswered question has been whether or not we can just use WJ unit bearings on a D30 without using the WJ knuckles or spacers. Opens up wheel availability for 5x5 patterns without adding to the track width

That would be awesome, thanks!

I’m needing that little armrest clip that goes on the upper portion of the door for the hockey stick style armrests. It’s part number 8 & 9 in the diagram below. Can’t seem to find the one that came out of the door Diagram: https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=4325531&ukey_assembly=683444 Here is where the clip goes in the door:

You replace the whole shaft. Rock auto has a few that are pretty reasonable. Borgesson has one as well if you want the best. Search for a first gen XJ Cherokee (84-96)

That gap makes it easier to clean . It's going to get dirty one way or another, better to keep it accessible.

ZJ Steering works well on mild lifts with 31-33's. The general spring replacement leaf springs will net enough lift to accommodate a 3" front lift coil. Add a leaf is another good option with 3" front coils.

Agreed. It’s probably similar to the method used on the tailgate panels. On all the hoods I’ve seen, there is a decent gap between the inner frame and the skin in some areas. Panel bond adhesives could not take up such large gaps.

Oreillys carries all the 3m panel bond adhesives around here. What they don’t have in stock they can get in a day or two. I don’t think panel bonding to the frame structure in the center is called for here though. I’m guessing there is some reason why they used a pillar foam in place of an adhesive. It would have been easier just to tack weld it in a few spots. Wonder if maybe heat transfer or crash crumpling zones are part of the equation

You could spot weld & panel bond the perimeter but the actual internal bracing had a foam layer between it and the hood skin. You can use a flexible 3m 2 part foam if you want to recreate the original.