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I’d be interested if I was back stateside. Only about 45mins form my folks place. https://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/d/eureka-springs-1973-jeep-gladiator/7262972981.html

Just remember that sales tax, self employment tax, income tax, wholesale costs, labor costs etc all take a chunk of your profit. If you just make enough to cover your costs and pay yourself a little then it’s not a business it’s just a hobby (and there’s nothing wrong with that). As @BeatCJ mentioned, it’s a really good rule of thumb to have a solid 50% margin.

interesting. Are those stock MJ leaf packs your running? Any pics? The stock 2wd mj leaf packs I run give me about 5.5” of lift and enough room to clear 35’s easily with flex. You can add a leaf as Pete mentions but I’d be curious to see if the main leaf is bent. The only new “stock” spring packs I know of are from SD springs but will jack you up another 2” over the 5.5 soa lift. They are good for an sua lift of between 1.5-3” depending on which packs you choose. I had them on my truck for a while soa and it sat with a good 4-5” rake. if your main leaf is bent or deformed I’d try to find a good set of used springs. For shocks, measure the distance eye to eye (or stem to eye) while level. Depending on your driving style and how much load down your bed, you may want to keep about 60-70% of the shock range for up-travel. I set mine just below the middle with about 55-60% up travel. So basically, if there is 24” from eye to eye, an the shock has 10” of travel, they you would want something that is about 18” compressed and 28” extended. That would give you a 60% up travel and 40% down travel to account for some weight. It does depend a lot on where you drive though. On Jeepspeed applications they bias them with a lot mor up travel to account for all the harsh landings and high speed “woops”. Rock crawling you want your wheels to drop on the unloaded side of that axle so you can use your unsprung weight to give traction to the low tire. Valving is another story and will depend again on the weight of your rig with accessories like bumpers winches etc. plus an average cargo weight. Accutune shocks can get you a custom set if you give them the info. Not terribly prices either. Last I checked they could do simple mono tube fox or bolstering starting about $150 a corner and they come tuned for your rig.

Whoever installed the rear main should have felt the journal for any burs.

Some times you have no choice over where you move. It’s where your sent. This is the western most outpost on US soil. Personally I just learn to enjoy wherever I am for as long as I’m there. Guam is a nice place and has its positive and negatives like anywhere else.

We just reached a record cold temperature here of 69 a few weeks ago . It was on the local news. I think it was on the top of a mountain or something. Never seen a drop below 78 at our house or a degree over 88.

Is that a Cherokee or Comanche chief? I’ve been on the eternal search for an 88 chief. May have to wait a few more years till one pops up but I don’t mind.

Isn’t @Dzimm making these?

You pulled my quote from "the middle" in the pub section. "This PSA brought to you by Jeep: "It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand" Then you replied "Ill think about it"

I'm guessing you pulled this quote from the wrong section . Ahh that editor that auto-fills

Ahh ok, looks like at least 50% smaller in the pic lol

Very clean! If my truck needed a new rear bumper I'd definitely go this route.

Guess it depends how much $50 is worth to you

They kind of look like the lights on the upper cab of a big rig.

Bilstein 5 series is what I run but most of your monotube shocks from from the major players are what I'd consider mid-level. For entry level though, those rancho 5000x shocks were pretty sweet on my TJR. They get great reviews all day long though they do have a few drawbacks. High speeds over washboard or rough roads will benefit more from a monotube or remote reservoir shock design. If you go custom, you can really dial in the ride based on your rig and driving style. PS the Rancho's I'm referring to are not the 5000 series but the new 5000x. The part numbers will have 5 digits vs 4 for the old style which were not so great.

Well, I wasn't on the list but I've never seen one crushed. That is a huge difference between collector and downpipe size there! I run a JBA TJ downpipe which wraps around the front of the oil pan. But my stock 91MJ downpipe didn't have that crush nor did my YJ, TJR, XJ, ZJ or KJ.

This PSA brought to you by Jeep: "It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand"

That sounds about right. I remember reading somewhere that 10 years after the production run ends they no longer produced parts. The 92 sounds like it was just a "lets use up these extra parts" run. So, out of curiosity, how many active members do we have now?

I ran some skyjackers for about 4 years and they were pretty bad compared to Ranch 5000x or the Bilsteins I run now. There are several factors that make a good shock though and it's hard to say that the whole brand is good or bad. If you pickup the wrong valving or shock design for your driving style and rig they will ride horribly regardless of the brand. The opposite is also true. Twin tube vs mono vs rmote reservoir plus the valving and ability to "tune" or rebuild the shocks are all big factors. Accutune will valve the shocks specific to your application. Probably the best bang for the buck for mid-level shocks. They also offer the high end models from the major players.

Thank for the info Pete and everyone else! Man I wonder what the NOS parts supply chain looked like in 98'.

Curious to know the origins of our Comanche Club and couldn’t find the info anywhere. Any care to share the story about how/when things got started, who got things going and a general history?

The Dana 44 should hold up just fine. A driveline brake is actually a really nice setup. Parts Mike had a setup for the NP231 last I checked. Teraflex makes a kit specific to the pre 1990 XJ/MJ Dana 44’s with the correct spacers. You can use stock e brake cables along with the little adapter from Lokar or similar. They fit the ZJ, Wilwood and Explorer e brake levers on the back of the backing plate.

Definitely agree with the u joints being the fuse in the setup. Don’t want a shaft or especially a R&P to be the week point. That being said, the OP already has an HP30 with a leaking pinion seal. Plus he has an 8.25 which has a nicer width and slightly better clearance than the 8.8. The axle he picked up is a used tj d30 which is at least 15 years old and of unknown condition. Being that it’s only a 4.10 gear set, I’d recommend just upgrading gears in his existing axles. Just my $.02

Here is a nice post (not mine) for reference along with a visual: The coast side of the gear is the side that's beveled relative to the base of the gear. The drive side is the other side and it's face is perpindicular to the base of the gear. A low pinion in the front drives on the coast or beveled side of the gear and under higher loads, the pinion teeth are forced out of the contact area into the higher thinner edges of the teeth and that's what tends to destroy the gear teeth. A high pinion on the other hand drives on the flat side of the tooth and the contact pattern tends to remain static regardless of the loads placed on it. High pinion= driven on the drive side of the ring gear teeth. Low pinion= driven on the coast side of the ring gear teeth.

Chrysler also interchanged the Dana 35 throughout the years but that doesn’t mean its the same strength wise as an 8.25. It is interesting that the TJ came with the D35 and LP35 while the XJ was 8.25/HP30 for several years. Wonder if they ran out of HP 30’s toward the end of the XJ run??? The one scenario where a lp 30 would be better is if your wheeling backward up obstacles Just because the HP 30 was replaced with a LP 30 doesn’t mean they are the same strength wise. It’s true neither should grenade while daily driving but while wheeling the HP is more than 7% superior. The pinion clearance, lack of a crush sleeve and gearset engagement where of a far superior design than the LP. LP was made for he rear and HP was made for the front.