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ghetdjc320

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Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. How are you measuring the axle offset?
  2. All the prop valve fitting are 3/8-24 inverted flare iirc (or possibly one of them is 7/16). What you can do is get some short premade nicopp lines with the correct fitting for the prop valve then use adapters for the master cylinder side. The metric bubble flare adapters can be purchased at most auto parts stores. They will have the m10 or m12 bubble flare on one end and a 3/8-24 inverted flare on the other.
  3. XJ shackles will rotate your pinion angle down toward the ground a bit. That may cause driveshaft vibes
  4. You could measure the springs and see if they could possibly be flipped to correct the wheelbase. As for the quantity of leaves, there are no overload springs in that pack. The design of the pack you have using multiple thin leaves is a great spring design but you’ll likely have issues if you remove a couple of springs as there aren’t really any supplementary springs in that design
  5. I’ve been using this blower motor for several years and it works excellent. Also has less current draw than stock. I don’t recall the numbers but iirc, it was about 30% lower amp draw with at least equal if not higher airflow.
  6. I used the Joying 6.2” single din head unit. Can’t say enough good things about that unit. @Limeyjeeper was the one who first suggested it. Seems like very good quality unit. Unfortunately, I don’t see it listed on Joying’s site anymore though the 7” single DIN *may* fit
  7. One other thing I forgot to mention, if you’re going to be doing any work on the rear suspension, start dousing those spring and shackle bolts in PB blaster for the next few days. The bolt shoulders tend to get rusted to the bushing sleeves.
  8. I will say, staying spring over and removing leaves may give you a pretty good recipe for axle wrap. Base the lift around the tire size you have/want. With your wheel openings already trimmed, you could probably run a 33 with little issue on General Spring replacement 4 leaf packs and maybe a 3” front lift coil. If you want to stay SOA, you’re really not going to get less than about 5” of lift on stock springs, especially with your 8.25 axle tubes. Here is a possible route for you to go if you want to get back to a lower lift and correct geometry: GS 4 leaf packs 3” front lift coils Stock MJ or JKS shackles (XJ shackles can limit your spring flex if you go SUA) New front spring hangers (something like this may work but double check your measurements: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1133.html Also grab some new shock mounting tabs and SUA perches from ruff stuff. Based on your other posts, you can grab a pair of passenger side bed repair panels if you want to restore the factory flare mounts (this will limit your tire size down to about 31’s or maybe 32’s depending on wheel offset and tire width) With this setup you can run off the shelf ZJ steering, no control arm drop brackets, no dropped pitman arms, stock ball joints, stockish brakes, adjustable track bar and you’ll have a nice handling and performing rig. It will cost a bit but still represent a great value depending on your end goals. Just remember to start with tire size and let that dictate what you need. There is a nice video from DPG off-road about trimming your wheel well openings that actually looks decent and performs well
  9. Looks like a custom pack. No overload springs and all the leaves are about the same thickness. Good spring recipe
  10. I’d pull the bottom two leaves and some regular MJ shackles. Bet that will get you close
  11. You’ll be hard pressed to find a new radio without Bluetooth. Crutchfield will be helpful here. You can filter out result for single din and Bluetooth. This is a nice option that has a somewhat period correct look without all the gloss black and rainbow color displays https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ddSZZRedSVP/p_020M508/Clarion-M508.html?XVINQ=GZ0&XVVer=13XP&awcr=628067979022&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9060252&awkw=pla-423311294129&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzrzABhD8ARIsANlSWNNjSly0K9Bk3wFzBxrdGn_OCrTnY-WBKK0mYaXo-iynFypePdJn36gaAjRJEALw_wcB
  12. Yep that’s right
  13. This is a good idea and the same things I do after rebuilding the parking brake. Really helps the pawl and sprocket
  14. I think the grey one? The one that matches the HO cluster
  15. Need a passenger side air vent (I think it’s the same as the center vent). Let me know what you have.
  16. Need a renix fuel gauge (just the small one in the dash). Turns out my sending unit has a Renix sweep vs the HO sweep I was needing. Since I heavily modified the sending unit for the 255 pump, it’s easiest for me to just switch the gauge in the cluster.
  17. Could I get that from you?
  18. A guy has it stored indoors as part of his car collection. The things never really sees the light of day so It’s rust free. I really don’t let any rust start up. I use DOM16, fluid film, and ceramic coatings all the time to stay on top of any oxidation
  19. So it turns out that I need one more of these clips . Anyone have another they could send me in the mail? It’s not super urgent. The retainer clip for the drivers side is broken and I hadn’t noticed until installing the armrest @The86manche @watchamakalit
  20. A few shots of the mostly finished product. Only have a few punch list items left. The exhaust shop bent the passenger side tube a little too close to the driveshaft yoke so that piece will be replaced and rerouted in a few days. Then the truck will be on its long journey overseas. This has been a mind blowingly epic amount of work thus far. This project took me deeper into the build of a Comanche than I ever thought I would go. But in the end I’m very pleased with the end product. I’ll get plenty of glamour shots and keep updating with info along the way once o receive the truck overseas. Should be mid - late June.
  21. Oil canning is common on the roofs of MJ’s. You can use map gas and compressed air to reduce it (shrinking the surrounding metal) or, use some dynaplate on the back side. It’s and body panel reinforcer used in subwoofer applications. It will resist oil canning once installed. Or just leave it alone, it’s not critical
  22. Yep, should work for most applications
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