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@Pete M, so would you be averse to the idea of a special discount or coupon from like quadratec or dirt bound off-road etc? Some cc merch would be neat. I’m thinking just a regular monthly mjotm going forward. Basically a virtual car show. If mjotm is not a good platform how about mjoty? It’s just a thought. Something that wouldn’t cost the club anything nor promote any particular vendor would be nice. Even so, I believe some of our vendors give us discounts for being members. DBO comes to mind as does Hells Creek but I might be wrong

Yep I used those bolts before too. No nobody cares about the light here. Never had an issue with it in Austin either

I know the mjotm section doesn’t seem to get much love. Has anyone tried to reach out to a vendor and see if they may be interested and sponsoring an mjotm or maybe mjoty prize? That would probably generate some interest and make for a neat perk. Nothing extravagant but just a little prize might be neat. I wouldn’t mind throwing in some switch trim covers maybe once or twice a year to the winner. Just a thought

Yeah I noticed all his posts were gone from the classifieds. Figure one of the mods may have removed them. The ranks all make sense it just seems odd that it’s based off of posts in any section of the forum (classifieds, pub etc) vs the mods/tech and build sections if that makes any sense. I suppose it all works out in the end.

A recent post from Minuit got me thinking about this. Most times if I’m new to a forum I look at the number of posts from users to help give an idea on the feedback received. However, some posters here have posted great tech but only have a few hundred posts. Others can reach thousands of posts with “that’s cool”, “I never thought about that” and so forth. Is there anyway to rank based on the actual word count or sections where someone posts vs just a post count? For instance, tompeter is no more but had several hundred posts somehow confined to the classifieds section. Not sure how that happened since you have to have some other posts to make it into the classifieds section. Just some ideas

I’ve got an extra license plate in the cab lol. Plus here on island many vehicle don’t even have plates so theft hasn’t been an issue. You could use the safety nuts also like I use for my KC lights

Keep forgetting to post up a pic of my license plate setup:

I should add, I’m big into pwc’s so throw in a new Seadoo rxpx and rxtx.

I’d have two garages, one for projects and one for drivers. project garage would have Jeep’s lol drivers garage: McLaren and Aston Martin

Two ways I can see going with an MT that would be neat (just my opinion though). 1. Restore the MT numbers matching and keep it pristine. 2. Resto mod and go with the MT theme. It was supposed to be a more serious hauler version of the MJ so I’m thinking maybe 2-3” lift with factory rake and a diesel. That would be unique! I just wouldn’t use a long bed off-road without bobbing the bed. Maybe it’s just coming from the wrangler world to the MJ world but the departure angles are already tough on my swb. Still dreaming of an 88 chief build though. Maybe one day if I’m stateside again

Just keep in mind, this will not be a “cheap” swap. Even with a free engine tranny and tcase, there will be some decent expense to get it to work in an MJ

Looks just like mine used to

A stock 4.0 should have ni overheating issues though on a good functioning oem system. All radiators are not created equally though. Also, high volume water pumps need to be part of a high volume cooling system or else they flow the water faster than the radiator can efficiently cool it. Switching from a high volume flowkooler to an oem pump actually made my Jeep run cooler. But my engine is by no means stock

I had a 5.9 ZJ with those vents actually. Vents and scoops need to be strategically placed to do any good since there are high and low pressure spots on the hood. All of that becomes somewhat mute though when crawling since there is little to no airflow over the hood. Hyline off-road had some panels that were similar to some other ones you posted here but they had some portions venting and other scooping in air. I run a Mach1 hood scoop on my mj but there was significant bodywork involved to get the lines just right.

Pics please! My box was pretty rusted out also but I was able to patch and braze in multiple panels to get it repaired. First started with media blasting to see the extent of the damage.

Use @derf’s calculator with your tranny, axle and tire specs. It is seriously an awesome calculator.

Beautiful work! I was thinking of using the autometer invision. It looks like it would fit the opening.

Bought it off of Amazon just searched for “receiver hitch license plate”. There is also a mount for a license plate on the d ring tabs from quadratec.

did the same with my 8.8’s and 44’s

Yes they do . Np 205 I believe is a bolt up to the sm465 otherwise I suppose an adapter to a 231 would be needed. Wonder how a 205 tcase would fit. Fabbing up a new crossmember would be in order I’m sure. The sm465 is short though so the 205/465 combo probably wouldn’t be any longer than the stock drivetrain

Just a thought though too, efi on any sbc is super simple. There are such a huge amount of stand alone efi systems now that provide much more reliability and performance than any carb can offer. Fuel tech and Holley snipers are meant to replace a carb and give you step by step instructions that make the process very simple. Plus they can offer timing control. I like carbs on cars but after running 6 different carb setup off-road I switched to a Holley sniper setup and never looked back

What year MJ is this going in? See what the psi requirements are of your carb and select a pump appropriately. I’d recommend and in-tank pump of the right pressure rating. Other alternatives are in-line and mechanical block mounted pumps. The in-line fuel pumps can be quite noisy. The best in-line I’ve used is the Edelbrock quiet-flow.

He probably uses them just to “stage” the truck like when they fully furnish a model home in a new neighborhood. Not saying it’s a bad build but when someone is building for the sole intention of selling it corners tend to be cut

It was done on the side of cheapness. Hack n tap sye RC lift kit Core arms (probably the cheapest versions) 3.55’s on what appear to be 33’s very obvious respray you can see rust through the passenger rockers no emblems cheap front bumper Looks like they swapped on the newer doors. If the wiring is super clean and everything was professionally done it may be worth the money but it looks to me more like a flip from someone who does this for a living.

Double check your bulbs and sockets also. It is very common for the contacts to get fouled or shorted and cause these problems. I went LED’s then switched back to conventional bulbs for all but the reverse lights. Didn’t like the brightness in a set of nos taillights. Made it look a bit odd but I wasn’t using the red/amber LEDs which would have probably looked much better. @MiNi Beast is right, you need an led flasher or you can also use an led ballast resistor to increase the load. Note that an LED flasher is not the same as just an electric flasher which most parts stores have on the shelf. The led flasher is a digital mechanism that doesn’t rely on the load of the circuit “flash”.