ghetdjc320

Just lookup H4 headlight relay harness on summit. Tons of them

Rebuilt the tailgate today. Separated the inner and outer shells and straightened it all out. Also stitch welded the inner upper joint to for more strength. Will to prep and finish over the weekend.

Agreed. I saw a Tacoma here with painted flares that are a similar style to the Napier’s and I wasn’t to keen on them. I’ll consider the Notch ones but for now will leave my Napier’s in the original finish.

Forgot to mention, I used ultra black rtv on all the points where the to inner panels touch. Since factory rah used some sealer/glue there, I assuming it’s probably for rattles. I’m also going to seam seal that upper lip joint that is stitch welded.

Well that took about 5 hours total but the inside shell is straight as an arrow. Very pleased with the results and I know now there won’t be any more rust inside for the foreseeable future. I also stitch welded the ends of the panels for a sturdier unit. Granted, I’m not going to get it apart again anytime soon. The inner shell is ready for finish prep and the outer shell will get a good bit of body work. I discovered several dent about 1/2” deep that I worked out with the hammer and dolly. They were filled with body filler so I’ll have to sand that all out and give it a good refinishing. Feels good to do this kind of work yourself . Body shops never take the time... Onto the bedliner and refinishing the passenger bedside panel.

Straightened them using hammers, heavy chisels, patience and a parking lot. Just too loud to be hammering sheet metal next to the house. Really happy with the way it came out. Just cleaned the insides of the shells. Will clean up the flanges for welding with a flap disk and will also coat the insides with cold galvanizing compound. That stuffs is a zinc coating that is great for touching up galvanized parts.

Yep, it looks and feels like seam sealer. Probably the same stuff the used for the rest of the truck. It’s also apparently galvanized

The goal is to get it straight. It won’t have every little wrinkle gone but it will be straight and rust free. If I had a few dollys lying around I would use them but my dollies consist of several pieces of scrap metal.

Before anyone “hammers” me about how straight I get it, here is my workspace and tools lol

Anyone want any detailed pics while it’s apart? Took about an hour

I’m going to give it a go by separating the shells. I may use heat to tweak the metal a bit later but I prefer to do as much cold work as possible. Trying to keep away from welding more than just a few spot welds also

Yeah, Napier includes instruction on painting their flares. Notch are fiberglass

Any input for anyone regarding painting the Napier flares body color? Trying to visualize how they would look in the cinnabar orange. May switch to some notch flares instead. Lots of brainstorming in progress.

Took a lot of patient clean up work to get that clear out of those corners. A dremel, rubbing compound, razor blade, reducer and fine sand papers finally got it all cleaned up. Will hit it with a bit of 400 and work up to 1500 before the respray. I think it should come out good. The drivers side is not bad. A bit thick on the clear but no cracking or pooling. That side will get a good sanding and polish.

Well, I’m no blacksmith but I know I can get it better than it is by a long shot. The metal hasn’t been heater so any stretch is marginal. It mostly just bends and dings. And only on the inside of the gate. I’d probably trade for some nice parts or pay if they’d be willing to let a NOS tailgate go. Shipping it here would be relatively easy.

Yep I’ll take plenty of pics. I have found (2) spot welds on the upper inner corners and about 6 spot weld on the bottom inner. Haven’t found any on the sides yet. I could always cut at the lip but I’m going to try to drill out those welds first.

I’ll take some pics of mine. I’m 50/50 on trying it but since I was doing some work on fit anyways it’s probably not a bad idea

These were NOS black trim taillights that I had purchased and decided to have a body ship shoot them with clear right out of the box. Suffice it to say, they are morons a shot way to thick of a coat on it. I’ve been very apprehensive about how to going about fixing this abomination. These lights are 100% new under this stupid clear coat job. Last pic is striper laid out over the leftover black paint the PO used. This was originally on the entire truck before I blasted it all off. The bed was never prepped so this was never removed. Beware: the following contains graphic content which some users may find disturbing:

I’ve been looking seriously at opening up my tailgate so I can straighten it. In the past I e seen people try to stud weld and pull out and defects but that’s a no go for my tailgate. There are a few spot welds that would need to come out but other than that it doesn’t look too bad to separate the panels at the seams. Any thoughts.

Any reason you went with RCV’s over the revolution 1350 shaft kit? I’ve been tossing that idea around as well

Also been eyeing some arb lockers for the front and rear. Right now I’ve been running an open front and truetrac rear with 27 spline chromo shafts. If I switch I’ll go with the Revolution super 35 kit with 30 spline shafts and locker.

Good info! Since I run the cowl intake, I have plenty of room where the old air box was. Been thinking possibly going with either a psc external reservoir pump or put my air compressor in that area. I’m going to check also on the TJ air compressor mount from MORE. It mounts over the intake manifold. If there is enough room between there and the hood, it’s not a bad spot. I’m running the arb twin setup and planning to mount a tank also for air tools and tires.

You have to have a direction with any build. Throwing money at something doesn’t work. It has to be invested properly. This truck is a good example of throwing money at something imho

In measuring the stock speaker grill sizes for the doors and b pillars I noticed they were pretty much the same size. I also have the lower dash piece from a later model Cherokee with the lower dash tweeter grills. Although they are not directed toward the listener well, they are in a relatively close position to the woofer to provide good imaging. So my latest thought is upgrading the b pillars to 5.25” coaxial (or possibly components with the right tweeter installation) speakers and components up front in the stock locations. Sound isolation and dampening will be the key along with a good amp.

Clean truck and a good price. I wouldn’t haggle with him unless there were some glaring defects. Honestly makes me want to buy it and just leave it with some fam in Portland. Mine was advertised as a 92 but was a 91 eliminator that had very little left to tell it was an eliminator package. One giveaway is the firewall insulation. Mine also had matching flares that had been painted over with rattle can bedliner . Other than a short bed HO the only other MJ I’d consider is an 88 chief. The long bed MJ’s would be cool as a towing/hauler setup but I’d never want to wheel with one.