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My name is Derek lol. Hafa Adai is our Aloha

You can switch to the 97+ xj windshield with rubber trim. It’s a simple upgrade that any glass shop (or yourself if your good with glass) can do.

Hafa Adai from Guam!

Yes. Waste of money. Did not last and didn’t put out what was advertised. Either a good parts store alternator or go with a name brand like power master or mean green. I personally run a custom built Singer unit for car audio.

That’s what we need for the 4.0. Hands down, there would be no better N/A power adder. Surely someone of means wants to make the Jeep 4.0 M3 engine.

So are you planning to have the two fans run all the time and the 3rd act as a backup? If so, wire it to the original e fan connection. If the current draw is correct. I know my 01 XJ oem fan drew about 25amps at startup.

Wonder why this is so hit and miss. Seems like every 85-95 jeep I’ve been in has had it. Was it part of some package?

That’s probably key there. All mine have been floor shift autos and all had the lever just like the manuals

Newcomer seems like they are doing a good job. Russ Pottenger is also highly regarded for superb work. 505 performance, Hesco and Clifford all had/have potential but are now at the bottom of the barrel IMO. In regards to squeezing out performance though, a fully tuned and dyno’d stand alone efi like a Holley HP or Dominator setup is king. Stock efi does not come close unless remapped by a pro. A sniper style setup is a very nice all around performer and is relatively cheap and reliable. Carbs are nice as well but being able to fine tune timing control without having to mess with an assortment of springs and adjustments is a nice bonus. Some carbs can also be finicky off-road with fuel sloshing around in the bowls though some do remarkable well. I’d love to see someone make a flow-through head for a 4.0 though. It would be major R&D especially for an out of production engine but it would be nice. The 4.0 jeep world is still well over 50% cheapskates though so I doubt it will ever happen.

I’ve had RE, Currie and metal cloak arms. RE works great but the flex joints are finicky and seemed to need rebuilt sooner. The Currie ones were simple awesome and gave a great overall ride. Sand will wear out the joints quickly though. I finally went with metal cloak due to the sand factor here where I live. They don’t flex as well as the curries but they’re quiet and smooth. They flex much better than the oem clevite rubber and they are a sealed setup which imho lasts longer. Rebuildable too. For uca’s I may recommend a double adjustable arm. Super easy to adjust that way. Core just makes a decent copy of other arms at a slightly lower price. I’m sure they are just fine also since many have time them for some time now. They used to be much cheaper than they are now though. With their current prices, I’d look into Currie, Savvy and Metal Cloak for short arms

That’s a Clifford intake manifold on that thing. Offenbauser and Clifford are still making 4.0/258 intakes. https://cliffordperformance.net/store/ols/products/47-4520wh-clifford-40-intake-manifold I am 100% not recommending Clifford by the way. Horrible CS and marginal products

Check out a Holley sniper system. Easy carb install but with efi reliability. And by the way, yes, many have fabbed a sheet metal intake manifold. Look at newcomer racing. A sniper or fitech efi with either a hyperspark or good hei (like one from DUI) is a simple and reliable combo.

It should. The adjuster has a bolt clamp on each end that should tighten up nice and snug to prevent movement

I wonder what years used the welded on ones.

Mine are that way. I think a lot changed in the 91+ mopar years. It’s in the instruction for the jks acos also where it refers to the two different styles. The rubber bump stops on my mj are actually pushed into the cup just like TJ bump stops (they’re in fact TJ bump stops). The original cups cannot be unscrewed on mine.

Some of those bump stop cups are welded on not screwed on.

Mishimoto is not a “high-end” radiator. It’s a solid unit built the way it should be and better than what you can get at the auto parts stores for sure. And the number one thing, it’s not some cheap multi core aluminum knock of radiator that isn’t worth the aluminum they used to build it. After you fight heating issues over and over and literally chase your own tail trying every “fix” and throwing a lot of money at the issue, a $400 radiator is nothing. I have personally discovered the hard way that most of cooling system “upgrades” are a gimmick. The Mishimoto is not. Next step above a mishimoto would be a Novak imho. ColdCase may merit a strong look as well. The old 3” core Griffith JeepSpeed radiator was probably the best core out there. I will say though, that mishimoto can handle quiet a beating. And the lifetime warranty is pretty sweet

BMB pads?

Yep, all YJ’s had it. My 91 tilt column auto MJ has it also and the column I am 99.99% sure is original.

Hmm, it’s on my 91 auto which has always been an auto. Was on my 88yj also and 89 xj auto. Just thought it was on all the typical GM steering columns

Just swapped in the 94+ short 3 wire VSS. Incase anyone does this swap down the road, there is one line that needs to be added. You will reuse the existing signal and ground wire going to the original sensor. The original signal wire comes from pin 47 at the ecu and has 5v present on the line. You will need to add a third line to the new vss which will need to be an 8v line. The cam and crank sensors both use an 8v reference voltage from the ecu. I splices into the cam sensor side since it’s right by the 4 way connector for the vss and 4wd indicator switch light. The 4 pins in the connector from top to bottom: 1. 5v from ecu pin 47 for vss signal 2. VSS signal ground 3. 12v power for 4wd indicator light 4. Return wire for 4wd indicator light

I have the THOR cowl intake. Works great and I doubt many places get much more rain than we do between monsoons and typhoons. Overall a good design though.

PSC here too. Many trouble free years

We need a vin for the registry

Had a lug nut I was trying to remove once that a tire shop had put on my MJ. Destroyed two wrenches and a socket trying to remove it. Finally got it off with heat and using about a 12’ bar on a 1/2” drive straight wrench with an impact socket. My impact wrench couldn’t even remove it.