ghetdjc320

Check out a Holley sniper system. Easy carb install but with efi reliability. And by the way, yes, many have fabbed a sheet metal intake manifold. Look at newcomer racing. A sniper or fitech efi with either a hyperspark or good hei (like one from DUI) is a simple and reliable combo.

It should. The adjuster has a bolt clamp on each end that should tighten up nice and snug to prevent movement

I wonder what years used the welded on ones.

Mine are that way. I think a lot changed in the 91+ mopar years. It’s in the instruction for the jks acos also where it refers to the two different styles. The rubber bump stops on my mj are actually pushed into the cup just like TJ bump stops (they’re in fact TJ bump stops). The original cups cannot be unscrewed on mine.

Some of those bump stop cups are welded on not screwed on.

Mishimoto is not a “high-end” radiator. It’s a solid unit built the way it should be and better than what you can get at the auto parts stores for sure. And the number one thing, it’s not some cheap multi core aluminum knock of radiator that isn’t worth the aluminum they used to build it. After you fight heating issues over and over and literally chase your own tail trying every “fix” and throwing a lot of money at the issue, a $400 radiator is nothing. I have personally discovered the hard way that most of cooling system “upgrades” are a gimmick. The Mishimoto is not. Next step above a mishimoto would be a Novak imho. ColdCase may merit a strong look as well. The old 3” core Griffith JeepSpeed radiator was probably the best core out there. I will say though, that mishimoto can handle quiet a beating. And the lifetime warranty is pretty sweet

BMB pads?

Yep, all YJ’s had it. My 91 tilt column auto MJ has it also and the column I am 99.99% sure is original.

Hmm, it’s on my 91 auto which has always been an auto. Was on my 88yj also and 89 xj auto. Just thought it was on all the typical GM steering columns

Just swapped in the 94+ short 3 wire VSS. Incase anyone does this swap down the road, there is one line that needs to be added. You will reuse the existing signal and ground wire going to the original sensor. The original signal wire comes from pin 47 at the ecu and has 5v present on the line. You will need to add a third line to the new vss which will need to be an 8v line. The cam and crank sensors both use an 8v reference voltage from the ecu. I splices into the cam sensor side since it’s right by the 4 way connector for the vss and 4wd indicator switch light. The 4 pins in the connector from top to bottom: 1. 5v from ecu pin 47 for vss signal 2. VSS signal ground 3. 12v power for 4wd indicator light 4. Return wire for 4wd indicator light

I have the THOR cowl intake. Works great and I doubt many places get much more rain than we do between monsoons and typhoons. Overall a good design though.

PSC here too. Many trouble free years

We need a vin for the registry

Had a lug nut I was trying to remove once that a tire shop had put on my MJ. Destroyed two wrenches and a socket trying to remove it. Finally got it off with heat and using about a 12’ bar on a 1/2” drive straight wrench with an impact socket. My impact wrench couldn’t even remove it.

It’s the wrong fastener used. Even the oem bolt is wrong.

Too much talk about repairing the damage vs fixing the underlying issue. Jeep did not use the correct bolt for the track bar and the hardware store probably does NOT have what you need. Yes a grade 8 bolt will last a while longer and yes you could use a larger bolt and sleeve size. Still is t the right fastener for the application. Great explanation video

Floor pans finally came in! Going to set aside a few days to tackle this.

And it’s gone… That was cheap

I think the large one may be a seat bracket cover

The BMB bolt has the threads on the bolt the same diameter as the shank with makes for a tighter fit. No typical hardware store bolt has this. This issue comes from both a very flimsy metal in the axle side track bar mount as @Pete M mentioned and a poor fitment of the standard factory bolt inside the bushing. The washer fix is a good one. Just need the right size bolt as well (one that does not under size the threads even one .001” vs the shank diameter. Few bolts have those specs, thus the BMB kit.

Comancheap Just my $.03

Leaving them on looks like a hack job. They probably won’t interfere though. Seriously though, take the effort to cut them off and cleanup the tube

What causes the oblong holes in the first place is the tiny bit of slip between the bolt and the bushing sleeve. The BMB kit fixes the underlying problem, not the damage that has been done after the fact.