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There are many compound curves on the tail corners that need to be matched to look right.

Very true. I’d love to find a clean Grand Wagoneer but they are’s very hard to find anymore. In the late 90s early 2000s they were quite plentiful and cheap. IMO MJs are more collectible than almost any other regular production Jeep out there. It just still really is bothersome to seem them as beaters out there. I think we’re gradually turning the corner on seeing people beat on their MJ’s but it’s a painful process when you know there are so few left. Oh well, it’s what has to happen to prime the market. I’m not looking to sell at all but eventually I think we are all going to realize we own very valuable collector trucks and that the market will eventually be much higher than the prices some currently view as ludicrous.

It would be nice to see them in the hands of people who actually care about them. From what I’ve seen, the less someone pays the less they appreciate what they have. If we don’t sell then they won’t end up in anyone’s 80’s themed collection. If we do sell, it’s good to have a healthy market.

To my fellow MJ owners, why do you want the value of your trucks to stay low? This is a supply and demand market. What will it take for an MJ to be worth 20k+? Another 30 years?? These are collector cars now. The few beaters that are left out there will hopefully either be parted out or be restored. Either way, value is going up. If all MJ’s were for sale for 15k+ then that would raise the price floor.

I did something similar to what @Jeep Driver mentioned except I retired the oem relay box to handle this. I ran 2 fans set to come on and run continuously when the engine is running and the 3rd fan kicked in at 195 or with AC on. Worked very well that way.

Yeah, MJs and XJs are much more refined in the aerodynamics and interior comforts than CJs, YJs and TJs. Now those are more akin to bricks. If you have a beater truck then it will be loud no matter what. I hate seeing beater MJ’s but hey, they help my resale value since they already have a foot in the grave. That being said, you can get the interior of an MJ very quiet depending on the effort and expense you are willing to put into it.

Same here. Takes a lot of time to go over everything but mine is super quiet even with my magnaflow.

I’m not sure. I had safelite put mine in and they didn’t have any issues. Took them maybe an hour or so. I can take some pics under the gasket though if it would be helpful.

Very good info there

My name is Derek lol. Hafa Adai is our Aloha

You can switch to the 97+ xj windshield with rubber trim. It’s a simple upgrade that any glass shop (or yourself if your good with glass) can do.

Hafa Adai from Guam!

Yes. Waste of money. Did not last and didn’t put out what was advertised. Either a good parts store alternator or go with a name brand like power master or mean green. I personally run a custom built Singer unit for car audio.

That’s what we need for the 4.0. Hands down, there would be no better N/A power adder. Surely someone of means wants to make the Jeep 4.0 M3 engine.

So are you planning to have the two fans run all the time and the 3rd act as a backup? If so, wire it to the original e fan connection. If the current draw is correct. I know my 01 XJ oem fan drew about 25amps at startup.

Wonder why this is so hit and miss. Seems like every 85-95 jeep I’ve been in has had it. Was it part of some package?

That’s probably key there. All mine have been floor shift autos and all had the lever just like the manuals

Newcomer seems like they are doing a good job. Russ Pottenger is also highly regarded for superb work. 505 performance, Hesco and Clifford all had/have potential but are now at the bottom of the barrel IMO. In regards to squeezing out performance though, a fully tuned and dyno’d stand alone efi like a Holley HP or Dominator setup is king. Stock efi does not come close unless remapped by a pro. A sniper style setup is a very nice all around performer and is relatively cheap and reliable. Carbs are nice as well but being able to fine tune timing control without having to mess with an assortment of springs and adjustments is a nice bonus. Some carbs can also be finicky off-road with fuel sloshing around in the bowls though some do remarkable well. I’d love to see someone make a flow-through head for a 4.0 though. It would be major R&D especially for an out of production engine but it would be nice. The 4.0 jeep world is still well over 50% cheapskates though so I doubt it will ever happen.

I’ve had RE, Currie and metal cloak arms. RE works great but the flex joints are finicky and seemed to need rebuilt sooner. The Currie ones were simple awesome and gave a great overall ride. Sand will wear out the joints quickly though. I finally went with metal cloak due to the sand factor here where I live. They don’t flex as well as the curries but they’re quiet and smooth. They flex much better than the oem clevite rubber and they are a sealed setup which imho lasts longer. Rebuildable too. For uca’s I may recommend a double adjustable arm. Super easy to adjust that way. Core just makes a decent copy of other arms at a slightly lower price. I’m sure they are just fine also since many have time them for some time now. They used to be much cheaper than they are now though. With their current prices, I’d look into Currie, Savvy and Metal Cloak for short arms

That’s a Clifford intake manifold on that thing. Offenbauser and Clifford are still making 4.0/258 intakes. https://cliffordperformance.net/store/ols/products/47-4520wh-clifford-40-intake-manifold I am 100% not recommending Clifford by the way. Horrible CS and marginal products

Check out a Holley sniper system. Easy carb install but with efi reliability. And by the way, yes, many have fabbed a sheet metal intake manifold. Look at newcomer racing. A sniper or fitech efi with either a hyperspark or good hei (like one from DUI) is a simple and reliable combo.

It should. The adjuster has a bolt clamp on each end that should tighten up nice and snug to prevent movement

I wonder what years used the welded on ones.

Mine are that way. I think a lot changed in the 91+ mopar years. It’s in the instruction for the jks acos also where it refers to the two different styles. The rubber bump stops on my mj are actually pushed into the cup just like TJ bump stops (they’re in fact TJ bump stops). The original cups cannot be unscrewed on mine.

Some of those bump stop cups are welded on not screwed on.