Warren99

I kind of hope it is a different style condenser with different connectors, because that would finally explain why everything was fine then it suddenly released pressure. I don't think I mentioned it before but right after it all leaked out, we tested it again and it seemed fine, but obviously we weren't gonna put more freon in. I was like 14 or something when I put that condenser on, and I remember those connectors being especially a pain, so maybe they are slightly different threads or I just messed them up somehow to the point where they sorta held pressure until a certain point.

How many orings are there and how hard is that to replace all of them. Also, no it is the original r12 system that came with the truck, other than the condenser which was from a 1996 cherokee.

I have no clue if the freeze 12 was "set up" the same as r12, it was just way easier to find than r12 and I assumed it was the same. My intentions are to just try and fix the r12 system if I can w minimal work and money, because I still have 2 cans of freeze 12 that haven't been used. If I can't get it to work with minimal effort and money then I'm just gonna do a r134a swap, since its so much easier and cheaper to find r134a.

I talked about this a while ago and never got back to it, but the short story is a while ago when trying to get my ac working, i had to replace one of the lines up by the blower motor and such because it had a hole worn thru. After that, we tested for pressure and it held, also held a vacuum. About halfway during the first bottle of freeze 12 it randomly burst somewhere and leaked all the freon out. Never could figure out what it was and never got back to figuring it out. Fast forward to now, I had a random thought. When I first got my comanche, the radiator and everything forward of it needed replaced bc it hit a deer. I just took the radiator and everything from my 96 XJ, including the condensor. With that condensor being from an r134a system, I wonder if thats the issue, and I'm kinda on here to ask if that might be it before I try to get those fittings off. I can't remember if the orings are on the line side, or the condensor fitting side. BUT, if those orings are the 134a style and are wrong, would that maybe burst during a first charge, or just sorta slowly leak over time kinda thing? One last thing to consider, that condensor was just kinda sitting around outside in the elements for a few days maybe weeks, it ain't like it came off the XJ and went onto the MJ. Is the condensor or any of the orings one of those ac components that cannot stay out and exposed to air for any longer than necessary?

Yea I was asking, but ok cool

I'll end up just using a combination of both then.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/543884697467646/

alright thanks!

How was that? I imagined a sawzall taking forever, and probably longer than a zis wheel on a 90 grinder.

Installing long arms soon, for cutting the lca mounts, is it safe to just use an acetylene torch to cut the majority of them off, or is that bad and at risk of warping the unibody frame or something? If I have to I'll just go through 10 cutting wheels but the torch would be easier.

oh ok thank you

Ok, what is the actual like definition of "NOS parts" and where/how do yall even find them?

Oh cool!

I've seen one of these on a street truck before. Not sure if its factory or aftermarket tho. https://www.facebook.com/groups/339415879775306/permalink/1695390534177827/?sale_post_id=1695390534177827

Not in a huge rush yet but I need a shifter for an AX15 and NP231. It's my understanding that you can't use the shifter from an auto. I need the whole bracket, which I think bolts to the transmission and the body. As of right now I have an AX15 and np231 both from a YJ, and I have to use the 4wd shifter from there, but it won't work with a center console which I might be getting soon.

I have my eyes on a 87 chief that I know has a 44 in the rear, and a skid plate + 2 little tow hooks in the front. In the build sheet there is a "AWE UP COUNTRY SUSPENSION GROUP". It didn't look like it was lifted but I'm not sure. If I get it and this still hasn't been 100% answered, I'll get a better look at some of those things and post in here again.

I have the same issue, but I ain't gonna make a guess so I'll be watching for an answer too

Everytime I see a stock height MJ I kinda wish I at least drove mine around for a bit before lifting it. Even though it was the most base model truck you could get for 89, everything was there.

Ok I just didn't know if one design was from 87 and the other from 88 or something. Doesn't seem like it from my "research" on google images

God I wish I had money, something just like that (all original body/graphics, metric ton packaged, etc) would be perfect to swap a built 1.9 tdi into and just use as a daily.

Ohhh ok. And whats the deal with Chiefs? I've seen some that have regular paint but extra trim on the lower body, and some that don't have extra trim but have the black lines on the hood, and "Comanche Chief" under the door.

I know about the metric ton package for long beds, but can a short bed have a dana 44 in the rear? Just saw a 87 what I think is a Chief, with a dana 44 in the back, but its a short bed.

Awesome man, I took the same route a few years ago when I bought mine for $600. Still doing things to it today. I learned a lot from it, and by the looks of things there's plenty to learn on yours

Before I got around to the shims I rebalanced the tires on our machine and funilly enough that sorta got rid of the wobble, there was still slight wobble but the actual major stuff was only when braking hard . Regardless, I just need proper control arms like some have pointed out, even if I fixed the caster, the current ones I have are angled pretty far down, the axle is backwards in the wheel well and the UCA are still stock. So that leads me to long arms. Should ride better and fix all the issues. Ideally I'd like something that bolts on, which is why I'm looking at brands that use a new crossmember. https://rustysoffroad.com/collections/xj-cherokee-84-01-mj-comanche-86-93-long-arm-suspension-upgrades/products/rustys-xj-cherokee-4-link-long-travel-upgrade#.Yougf3bML1s I like these particularly since its still a true 4 link and not radius arms. Any reason I shouldn't be able to use this? Anything I might not have taken into consideration?

I have roughly 5" of lift. LCAs are roughly 16" and uppers are maybe 15"-15.25". The graph is 5"= 16.62 lower and 15.21 upper. So I think I'll experiment with shims on the lower and see where that gets me.