Warren99

Just noticed you have a column shifter, that does make things harder.

I'm by no means as knowledgeable as some of the other people on here, but here's what I can tell you. A lot of the lower trim and earlier Comanches had these simplified clusters. Any cluster from a 84-90 XJ or MJ will plug right in to yours. In 91 they went from a cable speedometer to an electronic connection. If you find one and wanna swap it into yours, the only thing you have to do to get the new gauges working is install the new oil psi sending unit (by the oil filter) and the water temp sensor(back of head next to the valve cover). I did this in mine. One thing to note however, I'm pretty sure the tach won't work if you swap a cluster from something with a 4 cylinder or a v6, possibly other gauges too.

Oh ok so he's pretty much the same as mine rn

Yea its awesome that he was actually out there driving it

Here is the only real picture I took, I didn't even realize it but literally everything else is videos. I still took a ss from 2 vids of some interesting things tho, but that's why the next ones suck so bad, because it's a ss of a video. r34 skyline and s14 Some kind of imported right hand drive diesel Hilux. I loved the wheels, I want to eventually get some for my truck in that same sort of style

Ok I may eventually do that, not right now tho

Got lots of cool videos, not sure how to post them tho so here's a few pics.

ohh ok

Wasn't there less than 1000 92s made?

There's a drift event plus few other stuff tomorrow on the fourth at the Atlanta Motorsports Park. I'm taking my MJ, which technically will be the furthest it's driven since I got it on the road roughly only a year ago. https://drifthq.net/

Smh now I'm gonna be lookin for one of these

I just popped the lines out of 2 maybe 3 different clips from that area, and bent them all up, closer to the floor. Just a temporary solution because I'm taking the truck somewhere tomorrow. Please do respond when you find out what he did, I'll probably do the same when I get the chance.

I don't see how relocating the clip would have done anything, the clip fit behind the bracket fine, obv not being used for anything back there tho. Also no I didn't have to bolt up the UCA first or anything, the pic was taken before I moved the lines. Everything is bolted up now and working fine for road use, haven't actually flexed it out yet but I'm sure it will work as intended

So far other than the plates not fitting around the floor support, my biggest annoyance is with the brake and fuel lines. The UCA Mount interferes directly with every single line, and there's not one mention of this anywhere in the instructions, and I wouldn't think Cherokees have straight lines there with no bracket for the inside of the cross member. I had to bend all the lines up for temporary use. These pics are with the lines sitting how they do from factory, just not in the plastic clip bc it can't with the bracket up there.

LCA brackets are cut off! After I had the MJ part cut off, I didn't catch that the XJ part had spot welds on it, so when I tried using an air hammer to chissel in between the LCA bracket and unibody, it just push the unibody in, so I'll have to fix those but no big deal. After seeing those, we used a spot weld drill bit to drill them out. As long as you went deep enough to sever the whole spot weld, all u had to do from there was cut welds w a disc and hammer the whole bracket off at once.

I think I'll cut the plate, like ghetdjc said, the little bit of plate aint doing much, who knows how much the gusset is doing, it's one of the supports for the floor board lol.

On second thought yea I was just coming here to post that. I went out and looked at it again and the amount I'd have to cut out off the plate isn't as much as I thought.

I bought a set of long arms from rustys, not the long arm kit since I already had springs and everything, but just the long arms. They don't have "MJ" long arms by their selves, but the "XJ" long arms look exactly the same, and have the exact same part number as the ones included in the long arm kit for the Comanche. The problem: The frame tie in plates, that wrap around the outside of the unibody frame, come into contact with a support gusset thing that goes under the floor board. As far as I can tell, Cherokees don't have this extra support for some reason. So am I missing or not realizing something? Should I have called them and specifically asked for a special "MJ" version that had that one part made slightly different? If not, how important is that gusset, can I just cut a slot just big enough for the plate to slide in behind it and against the frame? Here is the gusset. The plate uses all 4 bolts on the bottom of the frame: the two the current crossmember is using, and the two in front of that which is used for a peugot crossmember. This shows all 4 bolts lined up vertically, obviously the plate needs to go up until it hits the floor, but this gusset or whatever u wanna call it is in the way. Like I said I think I will cut a slot in it for the frame stiffener to slide into, I wanna know if that happens to for some reason be a really important gusset, I wouldn't think it would be since the XJ's don't have them. \ Additional pic for context I'm aware I could also cut the new frame stiffener to fit around the gusset, but idk if that's a good idea, give me yall's thoughts. Thanks!

Ok thanks, I'll probably wait til I get the donor truck before I do much, I might check the threads on my condenser tho

Ok thank you that was very helpful. How do you typically flush a system? And for testing purposes, is it bad to run a system with low oil for a little bit?

About oil, I'm aware that the system in general needs oil, but I have no clue as to ester or mineral or PAG and what they do. I thought I heard somewhere that oil kinda sits in the compressor so unless you've had a system dry and open to the atmosphere for a while, you don't rly need to add oil. Can you clear this up any?

Oh wait, theres an 87 MJ I should be getting soon when the guy finally is ready to sell it, and it has as far as I'm aware all the working A/C parts. No clue if the A/C works on it, but I'll give it a test. If it holds pressures but doesn't blow cold because its empty, then I'm just gonna swap over as many components to mine as I can. If that doesn't work then I'll start buying new stuff.

Ok so check the condenser threads, get oring kit and replace all of them, buy new drier and expansion valve, and use UV dye to find leak. Am I missing anything?

Oh yea one more question, what about leak dyes. I'm guessing they have r12 and r134a versions, can I just charge a bottle of dye into mine or is it not going to work since its basically empty right now? Also, does it really matter if its r12 or r134a since mines empty anyways?

Yea, that will be the first thing I check when I get back around to A/C, planning on starting to install long arms later today.