Warren99

I looked on their website and all I see are sensors for newer jeeps and other mopar brands, I can't find one for anything with a 4.0, or really anything from before 2000. And most of them are like $40, while the one on rock auto is $10. Are the ones from rock auto known to be crap or anything?

I'm not sure. At idle it slowly fluctuates between 1000 and 1250. And when I turn it off it goes down to what I'm assuming is just above 750. Pictures shown are idle followed by shut off.

Thanks for the help. And the tach just being off makes sense, I had the cover off and cleaned it up before I put it in, and I'm pretty sure I moved it, so I'll just put it back to zero.

So I was at the local gray and white looking for a new AC line and found one, but got stung by a wasp while trying to get it so I abandoned it. But I just so happened to FINALLY find a cable speedometer gauge cluster with actual gauges instead of idiot lights. Its my understanding that I need to get new sensors for the oil and coolant gauge, maybe the battery voltage too, and I can just order them new instead of trying to find some on a Cherokee. Are they at oreilys, rock auto? I haven't even looked yet but I don't know what they would technically be called. Also, not important but just curious, after I turn the truck off the tach just stays at 900 or 1000, whatever it was idling at. Even when I turn the power on, other gauges react but the tach doesn't shoot to 0. Is is messed up or just how it is? It seems like it works fine, but I've literally only driven it once with the new cluster. It does kind of seem like it might be a few hundred rpms high at some points, which is why I'm even mentioning any of this. Let me know anything it might be. -Thanks!

Cool, don't some of the 350s have electric start?

Recently it's changed and gone down to being most intense at 35, and basically gone by 45. It's also gotten warmer recently, so the whole oil thing is probably it.

Ok, I’ll look at it when I get a chance. I just hate taking my wheel off bc the only puller I have barely works and is finicky

The right turn signal clicks back in place when the wheel is aprx 90 degrees to the right. The left turn signal doesn’t return at all. I’m honestly having a hard time remembering if it ever did, but I do know that I swapped over a different internal piece so I could fit a 3 spoke wheel. Is this a common issue where some little tab or something broke, or should I just open up the steering column

I just got my truck on the road, and immediately I noticed that from 35-50 mph a quick ticking sound forms coming from the gauge cluster. It’s most intense at 45, and usually slows down and gets quieter around 30 and 55. Anyone have any idea what this is? The cable is from a YJ, the same one the trans and tc came from. I think I vaguely remember that it did the same thing when my truck had a ba10 and the original speedo cable. But I never took it past 35 since it hasn’t left my neighborhood until recently. I’m assuming it’s something with the gauge cluster. The actual speedometer needle bounces a lot so that’s maybe connected. Any input or help would be appreciated

Ohhh ok. That helps a lot thanks.

When the engine was shut off the resistor read about 1.2 ohms. But still all I did was wire bush off some light corrosion and now it’s fixed.

Will try this later today.

Cool

Ok, so if I bypass the two wires, then worst case scenario is the fuel pump will run too much but the regulator will dump the fuel back into the tank. Just can't permanently bypass it because the pump will be working too much.

Haha nice, does that have the same 200 as this?

I kind of figured, but I wasn't sure if that could cause anything bad to happen. Literally all I know about ballast resistors was from a quick search and I know they limit the voltage to the ignition coil, idk how or why.

How do I check it? Nothing seems obviously wrong with it.

I just recently put a new valve cover gasket on, and a new belt. The new belt let me discover that my fan clutch is stuck on. But the main issue that randomly arose is the engine firing for a second, then immediately turning back off. I have since then found out that if it happens, and I wait 2-3 minutes, it will start and run normally but after 2 minutes of idle, or driving it will shut off and repeat the same issue. I replaced the fuel filter, that didn’t fix it. And I also fid and oil change including the oil filter (not expected to fix it but it’s something that I needed to do anyways) My best guess is that the fuel pump is too weak, or the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad. I got a friends fuel pressure gauge to test the pump, but haven’t used it yet. I can’t prove it, but i swear the fuel pump sounds quieter than usual. If the fuel pressure gauge proves the pump to be good, what’s a way I could test the regulator, remove the vacuum line? Or are there any other things I should check.

That’s a good point

Found a picture of the PW80, not much of the bike is in frame but you can still see the resemblance to the BW if you’ve never seen one before.

Just recently picked up an old big wheel. Figured this would make a pretty nice pit bike, especially after a few basics mods like un-choking the motor, lifting the suspension and bars, and lowering the gearing. The last owners already deleted the oil reservoir that mixes the gas for you, so I don’t have to do that. It’s actually pretty neat to me since it’s practically just a PW80 with bigger tires, and I first started racing on a PW80 when I was about 6 or 7. Adding pictures soon if I can figure out how do to it from my phone.

This ought to be good

Nice

Sweet, can't wait for the pics.

Ok perfect. And just to clarify they are the old style 84-96 right?