Warren99

I just put a newer brake booster on my 89 and it had a smaller hole so I had to drill it out to fit the brake pedal and switch stuff thru it. Just like this one It was finicky and up or down would make brakes permanently on. You just have to find the center point, then like Big Dan said put electrical tape or something in it. I think I put electrical tape on mine.

Ok. Are they manual or cable. Also I don't care too much about the condition as long as the metal case ain't cracked in half or something dumb.

What kind?

Aftermarket as in old style.

Like I said, I rly just can't find any at a JY, I'm about to buy aftermarket ones or get the newer style and hope it doesn't look too off. Are the aftermarket really that bad?

Yeah I have considered getting newer ones before but I just like the old style so much more.

And as for car-part, the cheapest one I can find is $55, for one mirror.

Yeah probably. At salvage yards, if one has any at all, theres only one and the frame pivot points are busted.

Ok

Ok, but with that being said, is there anywhere that makes them good still, because I just can't find any at a salvage yard.

Half the reason I'm making sure that they will go on right is because it mentions needing self-tapping screws for it. I was looking at the Various MFR ones but now they only have a right one.

So I'm basically making observations and asking if I'm right. It looks to me like my truck came with the big chrome tow mirrors at some point, because you can see the top set of holes lined up with the window frame. And the PO mounted random mirrors in front of them on the door skin(the broken plastic). I've looked forever and just can't find any good mirrors from a junkyard, so if I just buy some manual ones from rockauto(I don't care about having the joystick on the inside), they should just bolt on and I keep the little triangle cover pieces that are on the inside, correct?

Ok thanks

Just got some bucket seats from Pullapart from a 93 XJ. No rips, just two small cigarette sized holes in the driver side one. Also, naturally the bottom seat bolster is worn down and sagging a little on the driver side one. I'm a little hesitant to open it up, but in consideration, can anyone confirm if it's just foam I have to add/replace, or if there is like a metal wire that is broken or something. Honestly I'll probably just leave it how it is and just give them a good clean, but I'm just curious what it would take to fix it. -Thanks

Ok, my 231 is from a 92 YJ anyways so most cherokee driveshafts should work then.

Real quick and easy question, does it matter if I get the front driveshaft off a automatic Cherokee (so np242 tc) and would it be the right length and bolt up to my np231?

Yeah, I'm probably best off to just shorten it.

All good, I get how tired driving for hours can be haha

I forgot the picture, here

And for whoever is wondering, yes it does hit the dash when trying to put it in 2H, so I have to shorten or bend it, and it has a LOT of play for some reason so I have to figure that out.

Not sure what kinda feedback I'll get from the Comanche Purists, but I decided to try and mount a YJ 4WD shifter instead of looking forever for a manual 4wd cherokee. I did have to do a little bit of cutting but not a lot. Anyways, I'm gonna have to find a YJ console, or make a custom one, I did get the boots from the YJ I got the trans and tc from. Any ideas?

@Pete MI got your stickers and magnets in the mail, I just wanna say a huge thanks, I already put one on, and am going to put one of the magnets on my fridge.

Toccoa, No not really, I live in Mcdonough/Stockbridge. Wounded_Fighter, It's a 2wd ba/10.

I have what recently came out as a perfectly functioning ba10. You can have it for like $20 or something idc lol I just want to get rid of it.

I'll probably check the copper rod thing. As of right now this isn't a big issue, I'm just waiting for time and I'm swapping in two new axles and making a rear driveshaft. Then I'll actually experiment with this.