SatiricalHen

The turn signals work with lights on, lights off, and when the brakes are applied. The hazards work with the lights on, or the lights off, but when the brake is applied the lights stay lit on all four corners and the turn signal indicators stay lit.

got a hurst short shifter for it, and put some tj Moab’s on with some decent street tires for better daily driving. Not sure how to get the front caps to fit in the wheels since the dust caps hit now. Anyone done it or have suggestions how to do it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the same situation here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Saw their latch brace plate. Would've been a cooler idea if they made a 97+ swap plate.

not the best picture, but they work well. This is a 2 gauge set in my Cherokee, but I also have a 4 gauge set in my Comanche. Much safer than the crumbling crap I pulled out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just found this thread, but I have done a good deal of business with mean lemons. Always great quality, shipped in a timely manner and willing to answer questions and back his work. I have cables and throttle bodies from him in both of my jeeps, engine and trans mounts from him in the Comanche, and plan to get some custom winch/jumper cables made by him whenever I get around to getting a winch for the winch plate I acquired. Anyway, always great products and ya’ll should buy his stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

picture of the lip below the ball mount picture showing the slight difference in the general profile of the bumper. Sharp corner on the top which most round off on the top pictures of the mounting brackets which only have the 3 specific holes the mounting bolts are run through, and welded directly to the bumper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you look it’s not the same bumper. That bumper is almost flush with the bottom of the tailgate and mine has over a 2” gap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got some measurements, but was too dark to get any pictures worth a crap. The bottom of the bumper is 6.75 below the bottom of the tail gate, but there is a lip on bottom where the ball mount is that is about another .5” lower. Hopefully I can get some pictures in the daylight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can get some pictures and measurements tonight probably, but definitely by tomorrow evening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went back through the thread on my laptop and all the pictures are stock bumpers except one or two and their bumper was much higher than mine. I guess I'll just have to get some money rounded up and test it out.

There are only a couple pictures in the thread that are working. At least for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How will these hitches fit with this style bumper? Any bracket interference or anything? Haven’t seen any pictures with this bumper and a hitch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for a 2” hitch. Don’t care what it looks like as long as it can pull a trailer. Doesn’t need to be NOS or freshly powdercoated or anything. Just structurally sound and doesn’t cost both arms and both legs. I’m in upstate SC, but do travel around the south east occasionally. Will pay for shipping if the price is right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of tailgate lock did you go with? I was looking into getting one, but wasn’t sure what would work/fit well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I got it back together a while ago. Been daily driving it. Gets 17-21ish mpg. Having some high idle issues, but other than that it runs beautifully. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Starting to go back together now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it’s been a minute... got an ax-15, external slave bell housing, 7120 head, 99+ intake, throttle body, powersteering pump and bracket, intake lid, steel valve cover, HO manifold and front pipe, and I’m about to pull the block out of the Comanche. She’s sitting with the transmission and head pulled right now. here’s how it all looked when I pulled it apart, it appears the exhaust valve hasn’t opened on cylinder 4 possibly since I owned it. Using the renix block, comp cam, 93 head, 99 intake, and hopefully it’ll a work out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s starting to get real hot here, and I got a job over 40 hours a week. So now it’s time for me to figure out how I’m going to fix the AC in my truck. It’s an r12 system still, and I have no clue what the condition is since I can’t hook my r134 gauges to it and pull a vacuum. Is it best to just get a whole 134 system and swap it in, swap fittings, or swap what? What have ya’ll done? And what do ya’ll suggest doing? I plan to do all the ac work myself since I’ve done it before on a Jetta I had and I have access to a full shop (since I work there). Let me know what you guys think! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

well it seems its been a while since I've updated this thread. I replaced the fuel pump about a few weeks ago, driven it around a little bit, but still runs like crap and has no power. Friday I went to a junkyard in Georgia with my roommate and the guy had a huge pile of Cherokees and Grand Cherokees with a couple of Comanches. I got a back board for my Comanche (the board that goes behind the seat), got an ax-15 for it since it was already pulled and only $50, a new dash bezel, and cut a GM IAT pigtail off and made an adapter so I can use a GM IAT (which comes in Tuesday). That is about all I have for an update. I still plan to do something about the engine this summer, and hopefully do some interior stuff this summer.

In Georgia somewhere, I don’t know the address or anything. I rode with my roommate down there planning to find a sensor and ended up buying a trans, back panel, trim around the gauges, and a plug to use a GM IAT sensor. I can tell you it’s about an hour from Clemson. He’s starting an offroad park behind the junkyard too so when you break you can just buy parts to fix there. I plan to go back soon if anyone needs stuff I could probably pull and ship stuff. I’ve done it before for a few people.

There was not a bellhousing. That was the only manual 6 cylinder Cherokee. No wranglers he was parting, all were grand and Cherokees I believe.

Found a guy with over 60 jeeps he was parting/scrapping. 2 Comanches, at least 6 renix Cherokees, At least 4 2 door Comanches, at least 18 Cherokees pre 97, and at least 5 97+ Cherokees. Reason I say at least is because they were spread across 2 properties and it was hard trying to keep track and count all of them. Got a 2wd ax-15 for $40 and a back panel from a Comanche for $10 probably going to head back there when I get some money and get an engine. But back on topic. Since I got an ax-15 I now just need a bellhousing and the slave cylinder stuff.

Like the title says, looking for a bell housing and the bolts that connect the two. Got an ax-15, but nothing in front of it. Located in upstate SC, but would pay shipping.

Found it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk