Swampy

My oil pressure sender on my 2.5l reads about 40ish psi at idle and when you blip the throttle it moves to about 60psi but returns to normal when back at idle

Sure thing Pete

keeping an eye on this thread because because my cluster just reads flat out past 80 psi

IMO the best fwd car ever made has to be a dodge neon srt4. 2.5l 4 cylinder turbo

most definitely

Not really all that as impressive as some of yours but this sure did make the job a bit easier. Had to cut it down and shape if with an sngle grinder to cut deeper into the hole

So good news the broken fitting is out. With some help from Walt and an accidental stroke of good luck we got the fitting out. First and foremost of this happens to anyone with a 2.5l the fitting I bought from home depot fits perfect so that is a plus! Secondly the way we got it out was buy customizing one of the saw blades to get it to fit deeper into the hole, and remove the alternator and a/c compressor And with your new custom blade cover it in grease and cut two grooves opposite of each other, either top and bottom or left and right (personally opted for left and right) Once your grooves are set get a screw driver that fits in the opening in the grooves and start backing out the fitting Thats what worked for me, and Walt and I got the accessories back in place and I am going to turn it on tomorrow and make sure the newish sending unit works and the new fitting isnt leaking

Thats the one I want to get for my light bar eventually

That doesnt seem so bad of a price

Yes building it as a jack-of-all-trades is my goal. Not really good in one area, but can handle a little of everything tyoe of trail rig

I totally understand this but as someone who wanted a solid axle 4x4 truck has always been a goal of mine. Even to the point I thought about doing a solid axle swap on my 2wd ranger. But I'm glad I was able to scoop up my mj, and build it/wheel it. 35s will be my reasonable limit

@saveevryjp1998 i was thinking the same thing about a 44, but id rather build something I already have to handle what I need it to. The only down side to a d30 is that you can only go down to 5.13 gears and not 5.38 like a d44. With that 2.5l and 5.13s, 35s are as big as I would want to go to still be able to drive on the highway. But if I rebuild the motor for more power I maybe able to go to 37s

I am not sure what my end goal is either 35s, 37s or 40s. Probably going to stay at 35s as it'll be a comfortable/reliable spot on a well built d30. Work with what you got right? Decisions Decisions But just as a reference Front axle: HP D30- LP D30- HP D44- LP D44- D50/60- Unimog axles- 2.5T Rockwells- Rear axle: Ford 8.8- Chy 8.25- Chy 8.75- Sterling 10.5- D70- Ford 9- D44- 14bolt- D35- Amc20- Chevy 12 bolt- Aftermarket crate axles? ProRock 44- Prorock 60- G2 44- Currier?

I was going to mention that cherokee too Walt. And Pete there are plenty of variables, and I'm sure there is a guy out there that if you give him anything he will brake it. But beyond the scope of just a d30 all axles of sorts. I guess it depends on what driving you are going to do as a pavement princess has different requirements than a rock crawler/mud/ trail rip or even a DD

Nah no pictures unfortunately. My mj is still under the knife

His explanation....

I am not sure where a thread like this would go. I just wanted to compile a basic understanding of what tires to run on what axles (d30, d44, d50/60, 8.8, 8.25 etc) I know people draw the line at 35s on a d30, 37s on a d44 and 37+ for 1 tons. But what are the actual limits of these axles to the best of our abilities. I know driving style, intended use and terrain affect numbers. As do sleeves, truss kits, chromo axles, carriers and the like. But from experience wise say, on a d30/8.25 combo how big can you go? Some people say its just as strong as a d44 because u-joints are the same size. I know of a fellow with an xj (d30/8.25 combo) on 40" tsl's here in Florida. I know @12valve.tj knows him and his youtube channel has videos of his setup. Mind you most of the time its on the street or on swampy/muddy trails, but he is still making it work so whats the limit?

Yeah it is, I will definitely have some people helping when it comes time to paint. A few of the color names are just hilarious

if you keep the flares on there it'll be either flush with the flares or have a little poke. i know my new wheel set up has -19mm offset on a 15x8, Which would have the tire sitting flush with the flares

Nice. Thats good to know. This type of racing is interesting, how would a jeep compete if its been converted to soa. Keep us updated

When I got mine stock. It had 29ish (235/70/15, or something like that) on it with no lift. I am not sure if that extra inch would make a huge difference. Also not sure what the backspacing was on these 5 star wheels

What a beautiful truck. Makes me want to just finish my truck already. But still no where near that end goal. Keep sending pics please

That looks good man. I may do the same once I figure out what switches I'm going to get

I was considering the wwII od green. Monstaliner just has a bunch of cool colors. I went with the predator green. I know monstaliner has plenty of great reviews and it is supposedly UV stable for 5 years (at least) so no fading or chunking off. Another positive of monstaliner is that you can roll it on or spray it on. And you can actaully get it pretty smooth or rough if you want it.

"adds a 100 lbs"?? I don't know about that. I just got the mostaliner 2 gallon kit and the whole kit weighs less than 30lbs (including rollers, paint trays etc). I am in the process of getting ready to prep my truck for paint. Its mostly just scuffing the body and cleaning with acetone, then apply.