mule13

ever jeep ive owned needed work, i thought that was a known constant? i just assumed everyone that drove jeeps were mechanics,that liked to get away from civilization from time to time. i had a ford ranger once and there is no way it would hold up to half the $#!& i put the mj thru and no chance at all what i put the yj thru.and the ranger was a nightmare to work on. the mj is a little easier, the yj hell a monkey could fix it lol simple as simple can be.so for a vehicle that will take some extra abuse, and when it does break be pretty easy to fix theres only one :) only jeep people should have jeeps i guess.when my jeeps break i never say oh what a pos. i say sweet i get to do another upgrade!

that hose from front of valve cover i ran into a old plastic bottle. that way when it blows oil out you can pour it back in. the vacuum line i think i blocked with a screw then just put a piece of tubing between the filter and the rubber intake hose that went to the filter box when i got a new engine i removed the bottle and just vent the stupid thing new engine does'nt have blow by yet. most of the parts stores have tubing you can put in there.

Today i'm dropping the manche off at Wilson offroad in Fayetville,they will install a new ax 15 tranny,lockrites in the front and rear diffs,disc brake upgrade on the rear ford 9 inch,4.10 gears front and rear,lengthen the ds,and a new exhaust manifold. ;)

yea ones a 4way flasher the other is the turn signal flasher

i read an article about a year or 2 ago in JP magazine where they did a mpg check on the engines and the 4 and 6 cylinders engines got the same gas mileage.I went on the jpmag site but couldnt find the article in the first 5 minutes and then my adhd kicked in lol. if you search for mpg comparisions about 1k articles come up i didnt feel like goign thru them all. anyway I'm running the 4.0 renix with neon injectors and 3.54 gears and a 5 speed tranny.i get 12 to 14 mpg doing mostly city driving.33x12.5x15 bfg mudders

yea id like to relocate that caister to somewhere under the hood, not sa far away from tthe vacuum source.seems like a strange place to put it, right in front of the tire like that.gonna look for a new canister before i do though

anyone have a link to a vacuum diagram for the vacuum that operates the heat? my heat works but only on defrost.I'm thinking a vacuum line is off somewhere? theres so many vacuum lines i don't know which is what without something to direct me

happy birthday hope you found some sweet parts

the toyota dealership in Fayetteville N.C. is sponsoring a get together this weekend in uhwarrie NF anyone planning on going? I'll probably ride out there on saturday. the proceeds go to operation home front. http://www.offroadadventures.com/articles/view/id/472 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f163/2nd ... n-1106315/

Pete, Got the sticker last week,and the magnet and business cards yesterday thanks. actually got this one on without screwing it up lol. amazing how easy it was when you use the correct side lol

did you pull the vacuum hose off the booster and see if it is wet? maybe take the brake reservoir off the booster and look for fluid between there?

yea that thing there,its part of the egr system,but when you get alot of blowby from a warn out engine it also absorbs all that excess oil blow by. least thats what mine did. i did what Eagle said ran the line that goes to it to a can/bottle mounted up front where my air cleaner used to be.i don't really smell gas fumes when i drive but i work on diesels all day and half the time i covered in diesel or oil of some sort so maybe i just don't notice it lol. i can't tell any difference in how the truck runs what would disconnecting it do?I'm getting 14 mpg running 33's with 3.54 gears temp usually runs about 205. have plenty of power in everything but 5th gear.

never seen that,only thing i can think of : rotors were made of cheap metal and they've gotten really hot,cheaper metals are usually made of different alloys or steels melted together.if this were the case some metals when heated up and cooled back down heat and cool at different rates thus expand and shrink at different rates,so the slower cooling metal would shrink slower and maybe break away in places from the rotor.i cantr imagine anyone making rotors from metal like this but with everything coming from overseas now who knows!

that is probably the vacuum canister, it collects blowby from the egr valve on the top. some people mount a bottle on the drivers side and run the tube there and it collects the oil that blows by,then just pour it back into the engine.. if it is what I'm talking about there should be oil soaked sponges on the bottom of it,dripping oil. i took mine out cause it was so full of oil it dripped and made me think i had a bad seal or blown gasket somewhere.once i had it out i figured out what it was and that i could get new filters for it but by then i had it out so i just left it out. you'll have to plug any vacuum hoses connected to it if you remove it.(IF IT IS THE VACUUM CANNISTER)

I didnt show on any of the registered users online posts on page 9 of this thread, although i was on the forums on a seperate page at the same time as i was in the chat room, about every 10 minutes i went back and refreshed the page . that isnt active enough to count?

I'm in the chat room says you(automan) logged in doesnt show you logged out but you arent talking lol

since were all here can we do the chat room thing or would that not be considered on the forum?

can we get an automated email thursday saying don't forget to log in tonight at 10pm for the record attempt or some such? cause by thursday i'll have forgotten all about this I'm sure :(

i ordered a set of rear springs from rustys for the manche, when i was in Iraq so they'd be there when i got hom since i had a month to build the manche to driving status before i had to drive to Bragg. so anyway they didnt show up 2 weeks after i was home and i called them and they said that they had sent them but UPS wouldnt deliver them although UPS had delivered aqlotr of other parts'they said they wpould resend them i'm like no I'm done i just did a spring over on that axle so theyd be useless to me now could i just get the money creditred back to my CC, they're like no we don't give credits we give store credit you'll have the price of the part on store credit. so basically i just gave them like 400$ i guess cause i don't want anything froma company like that.

Well Pete i am "special" lol no need to hurry, next time your sending out stickers or whatever. i got the other 2 on ok lol

Pete, Got my stickers last night,thanks.i'm mailing out a check today, In my haste to get the stickers on last night, i messed up the installating of the 10 inch logo sticker, what i did was put it on the inside of the window lol. was all happy i finally got all the little letters to stick and everything straight walked around back to admire it and the words are backwards.Genuis i know ;) anyway Thanks for sending them out Pete, when you get my check and your sending out more stickers could you drop me another 10 in logo in the mail i'll get this one right i will lol Thanks John

Tom, My springs arrived today,look great really heavy duty. i'll put them on tomorrow, and see how high they jack that rear end up. thanks for the quick turnaround. John

I've always used a punch to get it started then pushed it out with a brass rod flattened.(the brass rod is a brazing rod smashed on the end and bent into a slight curve.I have never loosened any of the other main bearing caps.try finding a punch almost the width of the rms get as close as you can to the crank without touching it and smacking it with a hammer. sometimes they get hot and kinda melt themselves on.honestly getting the seal out is all about the angle at which you push.hope some part of this helps :)

i had a squeaky belt couldnt figure out what it was, i turned the truck off and one ata time sprayed wd40 into the bearings on the things with bearings alternator idler pulley etc... spray crank squeal spray next crank still squeal sprayed the front of the pully on the alternator and squeak went away for an hour or so, got a new alternator and never squealed again, the pulley seemed ok and spun freely without the belt on so idk

ok i drove the manche this morning and runs fine without the tube there and the holes plugged.i didnt disconnect the egr valve before i drove it. after i got back i left it running and checked the egr valve it isnt working anyway,feels like it has a little vacuum on it, but the little lever that the vacuum should opertae doesnt move so I'm just gonna leave it like it is unless someone thinks it will create a problem ?