mkbruin

You should be able to grab a set of rear sway bar links off a 1980-1997 F350. Should be a bolt-on swap for a longer link.

Its quick and easy... but make sure you use at least 2.5 wide and no less than .25 wall. Also, check out the local hotrod and drag shops in town. When I SOA'd my '89 I grabbed a pair of extended length perches (helps axle wrap on the hi-powered street machines) for $20 for the set from a local drag racing shop.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL56126/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-20232/ http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Lea ... _1485.html http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/dept/ ... Mounts.htm you can get MOPAR perches from the dealer for ~$12/ea BTF makes some pretty good stuff too. OR just grab some 2x2.5 1/4 wall box steel and cut your own with an angle grinder. You should only need about a foot of material.

Same here. I usually get the mid-grade semi-metallic from whomever is closest with them in stock. I only had an issue once with a high end NAPA set that jsut wouldn't grip no matter how hard I tried. Swapped to an entry level semi and the issue went away immediately

http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eAuto ... 189849.htm

Awesome! Thanks!

VIN is 1J4FJ68S1WL202041 Mileage is 128,200

I seem to recal someone on here that can pull build sheets.... I just picked up a 98 XJ with zero documentation, and would love to get a build sheet if possible.

McGauchy's uses rubber bushings. Part number 33037. http://www.google.com/search?q=Mcgaughy ... CCoQrQQwAg

My concern after going SOA with no sye was driveshaft length under full compression due to a load in the bed. The last thing I wanted was to punch the driveline forward and put the fan into the radiatior, or simply to grenade the 231 or rear 35.

I came here to post that there is a difference between health-CARE and health-INSURANCE... but it looks like your beef is with healthcare-COST. This is a legitimate beef, and one that is not addressed by recent healthcare legislation (sorry if this is too political of a statement). Offer cash/credit payment up front, and generally they will knock 25% off the bill or more since they know they are getting paid. Insurers have negotiated rates that are far less than the amounts billed. You can negotiate rates also.

Define "running gear". Axles: same width and bolt pattern, will be 30/35 combo, will need brackets. Engine: carbed 4.2 and BA 10-5 from 87-90, 91-95 went to HO (there is no such thing as a '96 wrangler); however, the t-case is clocked differently, so a complete driveline will not bolt up without clearancing the floor. anything else?

Front: Jack and support vehicle on jack stands. Undo brake lines. Undo tie rod ends from axle. Undo front driveshat from axle, tape endcaps. Undo track bar bracket from axle. Undo upper control arms from axle. Undo lower control arms from axle. Install is reverse from above. Rear: Undo e-brake. Undo brake lines. Undo rear driveshaft, tape ends, bungee up and out of the way. Remove u-bolts. Install is reverse from above. Axle choices: Front 30 from TJ, XJ, MJ, or ZJ. Rear: ZJ 44a, TJ 44, D35, Chry 8.25, MJ model 20. All of the rears listed came in the correct width, and with the correct gearing (possibly). You can get someone to weld perches for $20-$50, depending. Sometimes less. Find a local 4x4 board or a large board with people in your area (heck, post on craigslist...) The ZJ 44a has a bad rep, but are still stronger than a c-clip 35 and are great if you truss. Their downfalls are lack of gearing (not a concern to you) and a center section that flexes if really beat on (hence, the truss). Personally, I would go 8.25 and call it a day.

Google Maps on Droid hasn't let me down yet. Neither did the Sprint suppleid GPS on my old blackberry.

I just feel sorry for all the bears fans who think that Cutler has the brain to take them to the promise land. Denial is a disease. -MK from Denver.

Factory grills and associated part numbers: 5500 0153 Black, Cherokee, Comanche, 1987 (Paint as Required) 5500 2229 Chrome/Black, Cherokee, Comanche, 1987 5501 8658 Charcoal, Cherokee "Limited", 1987 5501 8657 Classic Black, Cherokee "Limited", 1987 5501 8656 Grenadine, Cherokee "Limited", 1987 5501 9666 Grenadine, Cherokee "Limited" 1988 5501 3144 Argent/Black, Cherokee, Comanche, 1988-90 5502 0262 Black/Colorado Red, Cherokee, Comanche, 1988-89 5501 3146 Chrome/Black, Cherokee, Comanche, 1988-89 5501 3146 Chrome/Black, Cherokee, 1990 5501 9667 Black/Classic Black, Comanche, Cherokee "Limited" 1988-89 5501 9665 Black/Dover Gray, Comanche, Cherokee "Limited" 1988-89 5502 0262 Red (Coded "BE"), Comanche, Cherokee "Limited" 1988-89 5502 5215 Black/Dk. Vivid Red, Cherokee, 1989 5502 2112 Black/Pearl White, Cherokee, 1989 5501 3145 Black/Black, Cherokee, Comanche, 1989-90 5AF9 6JX8 Black, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5AF9 6JW7 Bright White, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5AF9 6JM9 Dark Red, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5AF9 6JS3 Dover Grey, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5AF9 6JB8 Midnight Blue, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5AF9 6JE4 Colorado Red, Cherokee, Comanche, painted body color, 1990 5503 4044 Black 1991-92 5505 4945 Black 1993 5503 4046 Bright NOTE: The following Grilles are Black with body color indicated. 5BL2 6KW7 White 5BL2 6KX8 Black 5BL2 6KS7 Silver Metallic 5BL2 6KE9 Dark Cordovan 5BL2 6KE4 Colorado Red 5BL2 6LB8 Midnight Blue Met. 5BL2 6MC3 Blue Metallic 5BL2 6MR4 Graphic Red 5BL2 6MQ2 Turquoise Met. 5BL2 6MC9 Jewel Blue 5BL2 6LG5 Hunter Green Metallic 5BL2 6MV4 Light Champagne 5BL2 6MJ6 Khaki Met.

I'd say sell the 88 and 86 and buy a newer XJ with the proceeds. Quicker, easier, and done right from the factory.

I posted a model number for a reese universal that fits the MJ (longbed) in a previous thread. There are no companies that build a hitch for the MJ's anymore.

Show me what you've got. I am thinking going hack'n'tap, without the hack. Just tapping, adding the new flange, new seal, and running it. No real need to hack since we have long enough wheelbases to start. So... who's running what?

hit or miss with junkyard packs. Some say a j-series or waggy rear pack will get you close, others say a toyota pack or XJ pack with an MJ main... Any way you go (well, maybe not waggy rear) you will have less support on the mj main and will experience severe sagging or braking/bending of the main. Personally, I would go AAL or new HC packs. Its just not worth spending almost as much for used junk. Think of it this way. take where you are now. Add 3" for axle tube diameter alone. Add another 1/2 to 1" for perches. add another 1.5" for the thickness of the pack. If you plan to keep the factory pack, you will not get down to ~3.5". Just won't happen.

Anything over 3" you need adjustable to set caster and avoid death wobble... it has nothing to do with tire clearance.

looks factory to me.

define spring pads.... This: http://bluetorchfab.com/store/product_i ... cts_id=762 or this: http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy%20Suspensi ... /-1?CT=999 or this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spring-Li ... GoogleBase

bfh?

TNT Customs: 1.75" X .250" DOM lower links, 1.50" X .250" DOM uppers, IRO: 2" x 5/16" wall DOM lower links, 1.625" x .120 DOM uppers. 1/4" steel belly.