DansGreyMj

Your best bet is to cut everything off of the axle and start fresh. Barnes4wd sells complete perch setups for around $100. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

TJ Rubicon front 44. Xj dana 30 outers and brake will bolt to it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Over

I recently installed 97-03 F150 leaves on the back of my truck. They're 2/1 leaves and I added an extra Mj 3rd leaf (the leaf with the clamps) I had lying around. I installed them with RE2705 boomerang shackles. The center pin is roughly 3/8s rearward and the springs are about an inch longer overall. The wheels came out kinda centered. The only issue I had installing them was the front bushing uses a 3/4 bolt so you'll have to get creative and the rear bushing is slightly wider than the Mj so I had to spread open the shackles. Those are 35s

FF is convenient, but for this truck the way its setup is more than enough. If i were to build another wheeler it would be something a little bigger like an Explorer/4runner on 05+ Superduty axles. The front is roughly 65". I did move the front flare up to the body line shortly after this pic was taken, The truck had been sitting and that's the first time it moved in a while, that's why it was filthy.

5 lug. It's 35 spline and its almost identical to the rear end in the white Mj posted above, he built it.

I have a custom 60 in the rear of my Mj. It started out as a full floater from a 78 f250 converted to semifloat. It's got 5.13s and a locker. The shocks are temporary. The front is a full width hp44 with Flat top knuckles.

I've had some issues with rear springs wrapping instead of compressing. My last set of springs had completely flattened out so I ordered an antiwrap bar kit from Ruffstuff. I swapped in some modified 97-03 F150 springs, which are nearly identical to Mj Leafs, and rather than destroy these springs I'd like to install the antiwrap bar prior to driving. I did some online searching, but the more I read the more confused I got, lol. I ordered the kit with a 5ft lower bar because as I understand it the lower needs to pivot at the same point as the driveshaft and at the same angle. I was hoping someone had some experience installing one in an Mj and could point me in the right direction. I have the parts to build a crossmember, but space will be tight. The truck is a shortbed 4.0 5spd 231 w/SYE. Any pointers and pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Daniel

Are you still going to run factory style steering?

I don't know what the number means, but my 87 says 259 in that spot.

I've been running Rough Country drop brackets without braces since they came out years ago and I've had zero issues.

The tabs weld to the bumper and mount to the brackets to make it easier to install/remove the bumper.

I wonder if they finally solved the frame issues with this gen.

The Jk internals are slightly stronger than a regular 44, but the housings themselves are junk without sleeving and trussing.

That's way too much money for it to still have Chrysler spec'd axles under it.

Look up Adams Driveshaft in Vegas. They gave me a better deal than any local shop did, hundreds less, and shipping was free.

Post up how they fit. My front end is already plated and I'm very interested in doing the rest.

Did you get your stiffeners from these guys? http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/cherokee-xj-comanchee-mj-parts/

Non MT springs. I think they were off a 2wd.

So I was getting ready to refresh some springs for my mj, when I took them apart the rear retainer bolt and sleeve had left quite the impression on the main leafs. The deepest point is probably around 1/16". I looked at getting new mains made up at a local spring shop, but even the guy running the front desk thought the price was ridiculous. Here are a few pics. Do you think they will be okay to run?

When I did my 8.8 I used two passenger side caliper soft lines from an explorer and used off the shelf parts store hardlines and connected them to an extended xj rear stainless brakeline.

You might be able to fix that one using a sending unit from the same era Cherokee.

Lower as in numerically higher, ie 4.56+

Check your front caliper bolts. I had one back out and the caliper would lift up and bang the inside of the wheel upon braking while driving forward.

I would go lower than 4.10s for 33s. I've been running that for years and it's too high.