ParadiseMJ

Up. The other end should have a plastic vent valve on it to keep water out. The plastic tip and hose should stick up inside the engine bay on the firewall.

Under the passenger side dash...on the HVAC housing.

I snagged an overflow bottle out of a Nissan a the yard. Really any decent sized bottle will work IF you can find a convenient place to put it. Remember the line from the rad cap goes in the bottom, there's virtually zero pressure held in the overflow tank, when the coolant in the engine expands it goes into the overflow and when the engine cools off it gets sucked back into the rad. Otherwise you're just pissing coolant onto the ground. Have a good tight connection at the radiator and at the tank. When you check the level hot it should be slightly fuller than when cold. Never open the cap when hot.

delete please . tri-post

Triple Post...damn phone.

Nice Pete, I've never seen you in person. So, this is how you do it

Nice tip. How long will that last?

I'd need to go out and look...but I do know there are only two bolts on one side and three on the other. I think two on each side is sufficient. The plate is not really going to protect you from a boulder and sticks aren't going to dislodge it anyway with only two. I've swapped skids back and forth from XJ to MJ to XJ and back again...but I think I'd still need to go out and look

The herculiner in my bed started fading after about 2 months. No way I'd paint my whole truck with it. I used rustoleum Metallic...in spray cans and clear coat...in spray cans. With art tips. Cost $120.

Depending on the year, almost everything forward of the bed, and axles (with some modification. My MJ is built with almost all XJ parts. When I go to the parts store I usually ask for a 90 XJ (because the computer seems to have many more parts available for XJs' than for MJ's, even though they're the same, kind of. If you want to upgrade stuff you can also use later years with some exceptions. The earlier (Renix) control system does not mix well with the later OBD I & II stuff for the most part. But era to same era is mostly a direct match...cab forward.

Still sounds like a fan clutch to me. Not enough air flow over the radiator at slower, stopped speed Water pump might be an issue if this was happening at speed. Are you sure that fan isn't just interfering with the mechanical fan and e-fan...if I have this straight, you have 3 fans. One in front of the radiator, and two behind the radiator??

Ok, so under the Jeep today. Found the front trans line leaking badly. Took i5 apart, the connection that is, and found one of the two o-rings broken. They were new so I guess that's why it was so hard to click in. As I said there was fluid all around. So far I've run it up and down the road...+/- 20 miles with the inspection cover off to see if it was leaking there...no. Dry as a bone. The new connectors are solid, no hose kinks...but I have yet to get it up to 60+, which is when my troubles started. I'm pretty happy right now. I'll be taking on several higher speed test runs.

I need two. Or a source where I can find them. What the heck are they called anyway? More importantly what do they do, just keep water out or air tooo, I thought the hose just vented one way...OUT. Anyway, if there isn't a place to buy them, I'd be interested in two of them. The ones I've found at the junkyard are super brittle and or broken as well. TIA

...and hornbrod, I replied to your old post in classified about the adapters,vthen I realized it was in Classifieds Doh!

Well, finally getting time to look at the tranny in earnest. I popped the inspection plate expecting to find a bunch of fluid in the bell housing. Nothing. It's dry. None on the converter or flexplate. Not sure if the font seal actually failed. So now tracing the fluid trail. The connector at the front tranny line is loose and there's fluid leaking there. Then there's fluid on the other side if the motor, drive shaft, etc. So, I'm looking at the vent line. It has half of the plastic fitting, but the "hat" is missing. Is the hat important? Also, is it possible that the loose "out" line allowed enough air in to increase the internal pressure of the tranny? I'm pretty sure that that's where it was puking, or out the top vent

Don, I know this is an old thread but did you ever find the vent hose tips? I have the hoses attached to the tranny. But all my plastic tips have had the little top hat/check valve missing or broken.

Sorry about the timing. I took the bracket off the tailgate, cut/drilled the rivet off, tapped the bracket, put it back on, Held up the cable end and sent in the bolt. I had to go look because I did it 5-6 years ago and forgot how I did it. It's still solid. I had to "train" (bend) the cables to fold up right and stay inside the gap. But like I said, they're solid and strong.

That is an excellent question. I don't know the answer. I have not dropped the trans yet, but I do know that I had fluid pouring out the inspection plate...so I a$$ume the seal is out, or broken. I did seat the seal with a hammer and a piece of PVC pipe and it seated properly AFAIK. The RTV is a great idea. Now for the vent line. I know it's not clogged but it could be kinked (?)...and the plastic doo dad is intact. So is that a check valve,,,like air out but no air/water in? Thank you.

I thought I'd throw those two in there... One from the left, one from the right. Boom!

OK folks, I'm going to give this one more shot and keep is as simple as possible. The Jeep still sits as I haven't had the time to tinker with it. What could CAUSE excessive pressure inside the transmission...enough to blow a new seal out, or blow past a seal. Possibilities that I can think of: 1. A kinked or clogged vent hose. 2. A piece of dirt...or some sort of blockage in the valve body? (there's no evidence that there's any dirt or gunk in there) 3. Alien invasion, government conspiracy, jet con trails ? 4. It's Obama's fault !

Use this very important tool. Measure everything (the old stuff) while it's still on the truck, then adjust BEFORE you put the new stuff on the truck, so when you install the new, it will be very close to your old set-up. Then it's a real good idea to go have an alignment done...THEN get it back on the road...just a suggestion.

If you want to beef it up a bit, use the V8 ZJ tie rod. It's thicker AND it's solid...as opposed to a hollow tube . It's noticeably heavier...and has a bend around the front diff. I put one on my XJ and noticed that my steering was "firmer"...so I put one on the MJ too. It's a direct bolt-on and I believe it uses beefier TRE's...IIRC.

PLEASE SHARE Do you mean share/explain what...how...or why? Measure, buy, install. One of my strap/strut/hinges was bent. Noticed I could put cables on it like newer trucks instead. Felt it was a good upgrade. Readily available in various lengths with proper fittings on both ends.

Unless you're desiring to "keep it pure" I found that cables are much better...stronger, no rattle, easier to remove when you need the tailgate off.

Dropping the tank is actually easier on the MJ than it is on an XJ. But, be advised, since you live in CA, when (if) you start looking for a replacement filler hose set, vent and filler, different from XJ's, everyone I looked at said "not legal for sale or ship to California", which is total crap.. So since the auto parts stores didn't carry it, and I couldn't buy it to be shipped to me, I just made my own. Easy enough.. The diameters of the filler and vent are the same as an XJ. It's also a good idea to check out and replace if necessary the rollover vent valves ($28 each at dealer) and vacuum lines on the top of the tank. They get old, corrode and break, crack or fall out...and you will fail your CA smog tests if those aren't working properly.