Airborne Janitor

Just spoke to the owner and waiting for more pictures. May have to pick this combo up in the next few weeks.....

I've heard awesome things about the Metal Cloak springs. I want to try them on my XJ.

If you have access to a press maybe you can pull the pack apart and "de-arch" the springs. That's my plan with the current set of springs I'm running that are 3" too high. Pull out the packs, lay them upside down and weigh them down with something? Drive on top of them in a Honda Civic? Seriously though, if it were me and I didn't have a press I'd pull the packs and take them to your closest spring shop and have them adjust them for you. Looks like Krusty's quality control hasn't improved much in 20 years....

Compare the length of your new springs to the old ones, measuring from eye to eye of the bushings. They should be close in distance.

Your shackle angle is completely out of whack. They should be pointed towards the rear if the vehicle, not the front. Are your springs the right size, they're not XJ springs are they?

I think that's a fair price. I'd be interested.

How much?

Hmm...may have an excuse to see my buddy in Missoula....

I feel dumb. thanks.

Was looking at the website a few weeks ago, then was about to place an order and I've noticed the website has been down this week. Does anyone have the owner's e-mail? I still would like to get a few decals in case he's no longer going forward with his business.

When I swapped in a 97 AW4 the harness was a bit different than that on my 89 AW4. I swapped the harness over, I think the solenoids were different too, can't remember. It wasn't that bad of a job honestly, just open up both trannies at the same time and take pics to remember how it goes. Other than changing the fluid and the lines I had no prior transmission experience.

I combed through the archives and was able to figure out how to fix this issue. I have an 89 MJ that I swapped a 97 XJ NP231, AW4, and Dana 30 into. Since I got rid of the vacuum disconnect components which is part of the operation of the Part Time light on the dash, I no longer had my light engage when putting the case into 4wd. So I made a little write-up. Not sure if it works for those with a full-time case so YMMV. 1) Test your part-time light. There's a wire in the main harness on the passenger side fender near the firewall that's a female bullet style terminal. Mine had 2 black/red wires coming out of it. (Sorry forget to take a photo of the bare plug). Run a jumper from this terminal to a ground, then put your keys in the ignition and turn it on, your Part Time light should light up. 2) The bullet terminal is a bit larger than anything I had in my toolbox that would fit. But turns out if you have a spare trailer harness lying around the terminal on those are a perfect fit. So I cut one of the wires off the trailer wiring. Fits like a glove. 3) Build your harness. You will need the plug end going to the 4x4 switch on the t-case. I used 5ft and 2ft of wiring and put a ring terminal on the end of the 2fter. All tidied up. 4) I ran my harness down the passenger side firewall, following the cables leading to the top of the AW4. Grounded the switch to the exposed bolt threads on the old 4x4 shifter linkage. Note that I got rid of the stock linkage and installed the Azzy Design one. 5) If you did it right, throw your case in 4HI and 4LO and see if your dash lights up. So easy a caveman can do it.

A few small mods over the weekend. The tachometer on my gauge cluster wasn't working properly, the needle would "stick" in certain spots, so I swapped over the speedo, shift indicator, and tach face to my new (to me) cluster. Finally got the new light switch face from @ghetdjc320 installed, and painted my dull looking switches. Since I had the rattle can out I decided to paint my very worn looking steering column. Too lazy to pull the column so drop cloths it is! Installed an OEM clock I found at the junkyard. So fresh and so clean clean. And installed the tailgate bumpers from @Dzimm https://zimmdakindustries.com/product/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-mj-tailgate-bumpers-bushings/ Out with the old In with the new

Oh that's a good idea, and the heat from the weld should help the threads break free as well.

Do you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch? I'd heat the area around the stud, clamp on the threads with the biggest pair of vicegrips you can find and hope for the best. That's assuming you got something to bite to. Otherwise drill them out and retap to a larger size. Never had any luck using those stud extractors.

Wait a bit and shop around if you want the Fey/Westin. I got mine for $140 shipped a few months ago, either off ebay or Amazon.

Its not the switch itself thats rare, But the plastic bezel/trim around it.

Here's a picture of what you want. Good luck though, I've been looking for years. I think your best bet is to find the entire two door panel from a junkyard and pull the switch and cover.

A few updates this month. Was able to get my back slider window unstuck with some silicone spray and a flathead and some advice from a fellow CC member. My glass was missing the latch so I pulled one off a 1994 Ford Ranger and used 3M double-sided tape to adhere it. Works awesome. Ordered a toolbox but since my bed has been abused I did a little bit of redneck autobody work on it to straighten it. Used a 6ft 2"x2" tube on top and a 4ft 1"x1" tube on the inside and series of spacers and clamps to pull it back into acceptable tolerances. Installed the Lund 9352 crossover box with the gull-wing doors. Used an assortment of torx bolts to secure it and to prevent an easy removal. Built a trailer hitch out of one off a Ford Expedition. Used a set of hitch plates/brackets from @krustyballer16 to build it, details here: And built the trailer wiring harness out of a Cadillac STS connector that's the same as the Renix taillights. Not a bad @$$-job if I say so myself.... Digging the DeLorean doors....

Thanks krusty for getting me the hitch plates! Figure I'd make a little DIY/write-up I will title: BUILD YOUR OWN TRAILER HITCH THE EASY(IER) WAY, for aftermarket bumpers. I run the Fey/Westin bumper, which is a little shorter than the OEM rear bumper, which I find typical with most MJ aftermarket bumpers. The OEM hitch has the 2" receiver welded underneath the square tube, so it will hang down a bit on an aftermarket bumper. I wanted my hitch to sit a little tighter, so here's what I did: 1) Order hitch plates from krustyballer16 2) Go to the junkyard and pull the trailer hitch off a Ford Expedition/Lincoln Navigator. The 2" receiver sticks straight out perpendicular to the square tube. Note this hitch has a 7-pin wiring bracket that comes off with one bolt, and the trailer hitch itself it is not perfectly straight but angled towards the ends, by design. This hitch comes off with 3 nuts/bolts per side. 3) Cut the brackets off, I used oxyfuel 4) The hitch should be at least 48" wide for this application. I was able to cut the outer ends off on my chop saw to get this length. 5) Install krusty's hitch plates on the frame. 6) Because the Ford hitch is angled on the ends you'll have the bevel the edges of the hitch plates to properly insert the hitch. A 90* 3" grinder is great for this. 7) Insert the Ford hitch. I drew a line in the center of the hitch then measured from center to edge of each plate. Mark your weld zones, tack your plates on and prep accordingly. 8) Weld her up! 9) Clean up your hitch, paint, dry, then reinstall. For the Fey/Westin bumper, I did have to grind down the edges of the brackets to make them fit. It's a very tight fit! THE END

Since every MJ is single cab we don't have many options for (extra) secure storage. I was glad to get my tools, recovery kit, and gallon of coolant out of the cab and into a toolbox.

Here's my lifted longbed with a toolbox. I think stock the longbed seems too long, but with a lift and 31+ tires they look better. Also if I'm not mistaken the first year MJ only came in a longbed so its really the OG.

Solved! Seems my vacuum reservoir had a crack in it. I was able to actually pry the whole thing apart with my hands. Found another small vacuum canister with 2 ports, hooked it up and problem solved. I did end up just plugging the 2nd port on the new reservoir without issues. Thanks for the help all!

Whats the second port go to?

Yes.