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Everything posted by Torq_Shep
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Seat Cover Repair/Replacement
Torq_Shep replied to 89 MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
On the buckets there are a number of plastic clips that go over metal rods that you have to pop off and some velcro. Not sure on the bench. Vinyl is a bit more difficult than cloth in my experience. Once it is torn it is very difficult to do anything besides hold it together. You can patch it from underneath with a piece of cloth to try and hold the cracks together but you are only delaying the inevitable. -
Seat Cover Repair/Replacement
Torq_Shep replied to 89 MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You will want to pull the seat all the way out to pull the cover off. An upholsterer can do a bench for $400 or a little less if it is just vinyl. -
Pros of the south... No rust... Cons of the south... No paint...
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Enamel! Sorry I said lacquer... My first Comanche (Circa 2012 when they had not started appreciating yet) was painted Rusto white and I spent hours and hours sanding and polishing. It looked great for about 2 years at a time and then I would have to polish it out again to make it not look like chalk. I love Rusto but I don't think I will paint another vehicle with it.
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I used a farm jack to pull my old ones out... I bought muffler clamps from the auto store and bolted them on to the shaft to get a good place to jack.
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I should have phrased my post a bit different =P The last time I quoted PPG it was for a blue metallic. Not sure what the cost is for a solid red. In any case, I have painted whole cars with rustoleum. If it is cut and polished and well sprayed you honestly can't tell the difference from far off. However, the shine doesn't last and spraying lacquer makes it a pain to repaint in anything other than lacquer.
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Meant to quote fiatslug... Craptastic single stage I can get for $100 a gallon, Summit/Eastwood 2k Base is $220 a gallon, PPG when I last priced it in a metallic was like $700. I am going to call the jobber tomorrow and see what they have in Nason or Shopline (or somewhere in that quality range). I kind of expect 400-500 a gallon. I expect PPG primer to be like $300 but that is a guess. Eastwood is like $120. Both are better than what I have used in the past with okay results (only 1 failure using crap primer with a white basecoat, pretty sure it was a mismatch with the primer that came on the fender).
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I am second guessing myself on the order of operations on work on my truck. I pulled the windshield prematurely as I may be getting another one from a friend assuming I can pull it without breaking it (off a 2001 Cherokee). Well now that I have the windshield off, the interior is stripped, and most of the front end is off as I had to get to the door jam on the drivers side to fix the hinge. I am considering painting the cab before putting everything back together. Here is my dilemma. I already have high dollar PPG clear sitting on the shelf (enough to paint the truck) as I used to have a side gig painting fenders and bumpers. As everything I was painting was for car flippers I used cheap SS primer/base (insert touchup paint companies) and sprayed good clear over them. I would like to use a 2k primer, 2k base, and my PPG clear. However, I am not too keen on paying for high dollar base as once cleared I have never had a failure (even after 5+ years on an outside car I did for a friend) with the craptastic single stage. If I went with Summit or Eastwood paint they are made by Kirker with good reviews. However, does anyone have any other recommendations or know which Summit/Eastwood red matches Colorado red the closest?
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With the predator auger you will need water to get clay out. It goes through dirt and sand no problem. 2 people is helpful but I rested the auger on my leg to keep from ripping my arms off (did 95% of it alone). Check your boards every 6 or so with a level to make sure they are vertically straight.
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Use the star head screws. Leave the lines up to line your boards up with at the top. Its pretty straight forward. Building your gates will be most of the work imho...
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I just did this! Board on board cedar, metal posts, concrete set, predator auger...
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That is a really hard question... You really have to open it up to know. Pull the head and have it checked for flatness and then check your rockers and such and compare to FSM specs is your best bet. If they arent out of spec or nearing out of spec why replace them? Now you can go with roller rockers which MIGHT free up a small amount of HP (don't count on it without cam and supporting mods), but other than that?
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DOH! Why didn't I think of that! I will have to flush the slave with isopropyl but that should be easy enough. Will definitely be doing that for the clutch as I cannot be always worrying about the clutch master leaking again (they always do).
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Definitely the safest option.
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Fixing Water Leaks into the cab
Torq_Shep replied to BeatCJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-87900-Windshield-Removal/dp/B0002SRDR8 This is the tool I use. Its still not fun to pull one but it makes life way easier. I have a 70% success rate of pulling them without cracking them. -
Fixing Water Leaks into the cab
Torq_Shep replied to BeatCJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I pretty much always pull my own windshields on these trucks, do all of the prep, then either tape it in place and drive to the shop, buy a windshield and urethane, or have someone come out to the house. -
This is really solid looking. Good luck on the sale!
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Short bed topper - Sedalia CO
Torq_Shep replied to rokinn's topic in Craigslist/eBay... i.e. Not Your Stuff
Oil pressure is overrated. -
The last one is almost certainly a vacuum leak.
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This looks sick. If I did anything to mine it would be something like this.
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Axle ratio will almost certainly be 3.07.
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If this one leaks I will be doing the same. However, I am going to fab something up to protect my floorboards and new carpet from damage if it does leak.
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I went ahead and purchased a plastic Bendix one to see if that works out. It will be several months before I get around to actually driving this thing but still just wanted to get it replaced now.
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Has anyone found a replacement clutch master that doesn't start leaking after ~2 years. I remember on my cherokee I could never get one that wouldn't leak. I also plan to fabricate a little plastic box below the clutch master to catch anything and keep it off my floorboards if it does start leaking but while I am redoing the interior I want to replace this master. From my research it looks like they are the same from 1991-1996 even though the slave changed to external in 1994. Is that correct?
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With the generals. That is a fair assessment. They are not the prettiest tires =P
