Torq_Shep

It is an eliminator. Someone jacked the wheels off of it at some point. I will swap the salt shakers off my other truck onto this one at some point. Very early 1991, only 1991 Eliminator I have seen without the new style eliminator graphics.

1991 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 2wd AX-15 Red Manufacture Date 08-90 Location: San Antonio, TX Owned by: Yours Truly

Sort of impulse bought this when I was in Dallas (It was in Wichita Falls). I had the van so I rented a dolly and it followed me home. Its a 1991 2wd 4.0 AX-15

Easy. 1st gen Colorado (I have owned 2 S10s and an Astro and they suck but the Colorado is actually pretty decent) OR Round body 1500 with the LS or 95-99 square body 1500. Although I second 87MJTIM... Full size isn't really my thing. Recently picked up an 08 Silverado for super cheap, had it for 4 days before I turned around and sold it. Thought about keeping it over my minivan but the minivan beat it out.

Sell to Mini! Plans may have changed short notice as I accidentally bought another comanche

Definitely pre-97. But that is a good point. I don't believe there is a difference between 1987-1996 for the clutch pedal assembly but I may be wrong. I know I used a 1995 assembly on my old truck which was a 1989 but I don't recall if I had to make any modifications.

I have most of an AX-15 swap at my house ready to go in the truck (maybe over Christmas). If anyone has a pedal assembly for a manual trans I am on the lookout for one. Thanks, Torq

I had the 3.4 in my old van. Not a bad motor at all. Only thing I didnt like about it was that the cooling system was a pain to bleed. Plus they are hella cheap.

IIRC it depends on if it is an early or late 1986.

Excuse my language but holy $#!& 2020 may have a redeeming factor...

I did so much stupid stuff in my college comanche... So much... Story 1: My roommate and I both had "crappy" cars so we used to run into each other at stop lights for fun. Story 2: Starter went out and as it was a manual I just left it not functioning for months and would just push it down a hill. Ended up changing that after finals in my friends apartment complex. Story 3: I loaded 2 motorcycles, a welder, and a toolbox in the back of it and drove 5 hours from my parents place back to college. Story 4: We used to drag race and "drift" in the school complex after hours. One of those times it was raining and I spun out and smashed a curb. Destroyed the tire, axle shaft, and wheel. $60 at the junkyard fixed it. Story 5: My roommate and I sold his Cadillac to a dude in Pensacola. The car was a piece and would run for a few hundred miles at a time and at one time caught fire. When selling it I get in the Caddy with the dude and my roommate gets in my truck. The guy immediately blasts the radio, lays the seat back, and proceeds to take the Caddy to ~120mph while my roommate tried to follow us. After 5 minutes the guy says he "likes the car and wants to buy it" but he wants to know if he can pay me, at least in part, in weed. I decline and we drive to his uncles house where his uncle hands me 2k. That whole interaction happened while I was on the phone with my roommate trying to figure out where the hell we lost him because the Comanche was way less fast. Driving out of there I tore @$$ to get the heck away from there.

Its the "Lets go buy $1500 worth of lumber at Lowe's" truck. It gets used when I need to haul things around that I would prefer not to put in my van.

My response is almost always "Try it yourself and if you get stuck I will come help"

I have been replacing a lot of my flooring with LVP. Its nearly as cheap, durable as hell, doesn't get cold like tile, and looks pretty decent. I kind of hear you on that though... 2020 started out with a dead minivan (2007 Odyssey cylinder 3 ring failure), another dead minivan, bought as a cheap interim (1996 Astro Main bearing failure), and a dead motorcycle (2006 FZ6 bad fuel pump). It has only gone downhill from there.

PETG is usually a pretty solid choice. ABS can be difficult to print

As an aside and this is just throwing it at the wall as it usually not the case as long as you are anywhere near factory specs for coolant flow... If you have too much flow through the radiator you can not be allowing enough dwell time in the radiator to actually drop the temperature enough. It is a problem I experience at work often but those are engine test cells and not an OEM configuration.

Have you considered a pot on the IAT to try and go even a bit richer? That and an innovate wide band just to verify.

Honestly, this in desert sand tan would be decent looking imho. I third the nay's on the doors though.

I ran a CSF 3-core all metal for years on my old jeep. Always ran super cold in Florida. Went cheap on this one and am running OEM open and have a hot-start overheating problem if I go above 2500 RPM in the first 15 minutes of driving. Pretty sure its cavitation somewhere in the system. I second the block cleaning method but I would recommend bypassing anything plastic or rubber when doing that. I use a similar method on dynos at work and while it works wonders it never fails to degrade a rubber line somewhere...

That is the best breakdown I could have asked for =P I was thinking somewhere around 50-70k so I wasn't that far off (assuming used equipment). Not even close to break even in equipment and time until 1000+ units.

Not that I have the money but about how much do you think that would be? Based on my limited previous experience in plastics I am going to guess it is $$$

Can you post model numbers? My guess is that they are not worth much. Office 2013 is a tricky one as it depends on what version of the license you have. If you have retail license (bought from a store or online) you should be able to recover the license key with a microsoft account assuming you used a microsoft account to activate the license. If it came with the PC or was purchased as a product key only then that install of Office is tied to that computer and cannot be transferred. If I was in your shoes, I would probably just wipe or remove the hard drives and give them to charity or dispose of them at E-waste sites. If you have time and are bored/really need the $50 that you might get from the PC and have to deal with setting up the PC for the next person and removing your data, then that is the other route.

Used 70s and 80s units are infinitely better than the $150 new ones today. I had a circa 2005 Craftsmen that was a joke (resorted to my hand drill 95% of the time). My dad has a circa 1980 HF model that is actually really good. Look for a keyed check.

That's it? My cart on RA is at like $800 of stuff I should purchase for my daily, my partners saturn, and the MJ... Way too cheap to buy it all though.

So not what you are asking per se but I run General Altimax RT43s on my van and recommend them heavily for price/on-road performance. All-Terrains look cool on our old trucks but are IMHO overrated for 2wd primarily street trucks.