Torq_Shep

So I did not have power to 30 but if I applied power directly to 30 from the battery it also made the fuel pump run (that is with the relay out). Which to me, seems like something is shorting in 30s circuit back to the fuel pump. I did find some more screwed up wiring on the other half of the harness and I am going to start tearing into that tonight or tomorrow. Once I repair all of the wires I will reinstall the harness.

That is correct. However, if I jump pin 30 it also powers the fuel pump. So I think I have a short somewhere.

So I definitely do not have an 8 pin connector like that. I have a 10 pin one that is similar but no red wires coming from the fusible link to that connector. From what I can see so far is the fusible link to pin 1 appears intact. <1ohm. But not sure why I no longer have a fuel pump unless I jump pin 87 direct to 12v. I am going to start it by jumping the relay again to make sure I got the harness installed correctly and then pull the front harness because I found what looks like yet another chewed wire on that side...

Well that is a little more extreme than I had in mind. Only upsizing if it blew due to any of the "slow blow" handling spikes in amperage is not the same as just keep putting in bigger fuses, but I digress. Managed to wrap my engine side harness today (side without links) after repair of the rodent damage. 3 of the wires going to the fuel pump relay had significant damage so I am hoping that was my issue. If not I will be using Minuit's direction to track down my problem and then likely pull the front harness (headlights and other crap) and assess that one as well. I am suspicious of the circuit going to the fuel pump resistor and need to check that with the meter as well.

Holy crap is that a passenger comanche rear bumper cap? How does he want for it? =p

I completely agree with you. Which is why I broke down and ripped the engine harness out after finding chewed wiring just to make sure I didnt have any more critical issues. I didnt even consider a fuse block until I was at the parts store and I couldnt find readily available links and got to thinking about just switching to a fuse block. The wiring sizes and fusible links were engineered that way for a reason. I understand and respect that. However, fusible links are old school and more difficult to diagnose (marginally) then just throwing the meter on the posts of the fuse. I have not done enough research on the subject of swapping them although if I pull the front harness also "ALL" of the links are being replaced with new links (or possibly fuses).

I am 50/50 split on doing it. If I pull that harness that would be the time to do it for sure.

Initially what I was planning was to find the standard for each "gauge" fusible link amp draw rating at 12-14v and try those sizes. If I blew them at that point either go back to a fusible link or try one size higher fuse. If the size higher still blew I need to check long and hard for a short and if I couldnt find one go back to fusible link. But again it will all be subjective. I just don't understand why they didnt just use a fuse block in the first place.

I am currently re-doing the engine side harness on the comanche as mine got munched on by critters. Repaired a few wires (properly with correct colors, solder, heat shrink, etc). But I have a feeling that my "G" fusible link on the header panel harness may be blown. I am highly considering pulling that harness out and refreshing it as well. However, is there any reason not to just use a fuse block instead of fusible links? Especially if I am hunting electrical problems due to rodents and expect to blow at least another link if I am not careful? I know the "slow burn" vs immediate blow is a thing but if the purpose is to protect the harness, and the harness is clean and likely isnt going to be a source of significant resistance (anymore) could I just run a small fuse block safely?

Well I got the new radiator installed. Went to fire it up and no fuel pump... Turns out ai probably blew a fusible link and I can power the fuel pump by jumping either pin 30 or pin 87 to 12v so I have a short. Damn mice probably did a lot more damage than I thought. Good news is that on a short drive (bypassed relay) it didnt overheat or stall this time. So making progress!

Working in automotive (and with oil companies) and we are getting to the poo hitting the fan stage with no one signing contracts. Covering night shifts just so we can eliminate overtime for hourly employees. Expecting furloughs and maybe layoffs so that's fun...

Well pretty much everytime I buy another project =P

I just got it up and running after it sat for atleast 8 years. It is overheating as the radiator has a massive leak and won't hold water very long. I haven't driven it farther than a few hundred feet before I realized that I was starting to get hot, turned around and parked it. It was making the noise as seen above before I even moved it out of the garage. But when I take the radiator out I am going to pull the belt off again and screw around with the pulleys to see if I can pinpoint it.

Harmonic is brand new as it was bad when I bought the jeep. When I change the radiator, after an oil change and a bit of driving I may try removing the belt and running it just to see.

I am 6'3" and 176lbs and even at 26 I feel your pain on changing that... Hell I was feeling it just putting my tank back in place...

Stephen San Antonio 89 eliminator This is my 6th jeep and 3rd comanche...

It really truly depends on the state you are in. Some states are fairly easy and some states are practically impossible to get titles for non-titled vehicles.

Yall are making me jealous. Obviously can't afford jeep parts and good beer! My favorite summertime beer last year was Golden Road Wolf Pup Session IPA. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Sam Adam's Rebel IPA are always awesome though.

No idea on the AC. I agree it does not sound like rod knock. Seems to be front of engine best I can tell so I am assuming timing chain or accessory bearing. Initially thought it might be flex plate but it does seem to be closer to the front.

136k. I am really thinking it may be the chain tbh. Its a non-interference so I may drive it for a few days after getting the cooling system worked out to see if I can pinpoint it.

https://youtu.be/mUFeXk1Y-4M Any ideas? I spun all of the pulleys when the belt was off and they spun okay, nothing obviously wrong with them but they are super old =P My other thought is maybe timing chain slap? Noise does not seem to be dependent on engine RPM so I am hopeful that it is just an accessory problem.

And the radiator is blown =P Probably just convert it to open at this point.

Drove it around the block this morning. It stalled twice but progress has been made. It makes a weird noise that I havent figured out yet. https://youtu.be/mUFeXk1Y-4M

$#@% of course... yep wired backwards not sure why switching the leads at the truck side plug didnt fix it...

Possibly... gotta pull the assembly now...