Dzimm

The question is do they all function? If so, what is powering that mess?

Holding out hope for 3X or 2XL Long

To put all the good information from the many posts above into one post to make it clear and answer the OPs question. The FACTORY, non-cut apart, rear wheel wells between the 2dr AND 4dr XJs and the MJs are NOT the same. No rear XJ FACTORY flare will fit the MJ. The flat flares sold by Bushwacker and Napier are designed to fit ONLY the XJ. They will bolt on to the MJ bed but it causes a gap in the lower body line, therfore DOESN'T FIT PROPERLY. Some people are okay with the small (roughly 1/2") gap, others fill it in. Napier markets them as fitting the MJ but they DON'T FIT PROPERLY! The CUTOUT flares (the bulky ones) that are offered by Bushwacker and Napier as well as some other knock off companies are marketed to fit both the 2dr XJ and the MJ because the wheel wells are cut out so far that they become about the same in size. There are some custom flat flare options I came across that used 1/2" thick PVC sheets cut to size and heated to bend the proper shape and they looked really good but were a TON of work and still cost around $100-$150 in materials. Just like you, I wanted flat flares and searched high and low before deciding to just run the stock flares because there were no good, affordable options for flats on an MJ. As long as you bump stop accordingly, you can run 31" tires with stock flares without cutting the wheel well. I would also echo others from above, unless you are dead set on cutting it up (as it is your truck to do with as you please), I'd recommend keeping a clean bed whole as they are getting fewer and further in between.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it does. I remember putting a ground right next to that harness and I am fairly certain it came out of that harness. It's just a black wire with a round terminal on it correct?

Follow the fuel pump wire back to the harness you plugged it into (I put mine behind the back panel in the cab), I'm fairly certain there is a ground off that harness near the plugs.

1 or 3. Kinda like the classic logo but the .com will advertise the site.

Agree with above. That's exactly what happens with bad contact on the battery.

I'm currently doing the floors in my XJ and I'm leaving a gap there. In fact my entire floor pans sit about a half inch above everything that's under there just because of the POs previous attempt at repairs. The gap will allow water and dirt to dry up so it doesn't cause rust. If your pan was contacting that and not sealed correctly, it would rust in between there. If you do hammer it down to meet it, make sure to seal and undercoat well. From the factory it is against the floor and covered with the factory undercoating stuff.

Maybe add the profile of the corner turn signals? Looks a little 97+ currently.

Looks kinda cool. Almost looks like the vise grips are holding the tubing guard thing on.

I like this but I think most people would immediately associate it with an XJ not an MJ. And I second mjeff87, 86 would make more sense.

I would absolutely be in for a sweatshirt in either pull over or zipper and t-shirts. Looking for long-sleeved shirts as well all as soon as they are available. I'm 3x or 2x long so hopefully you have bigger sizes that don't shrink much. Do you have any idea what the cost would be?

Indeed. Thank you all for the input.

Yeah that's the problem is I would need like 10 tubes of it because I wasn't able to do full pans, I have quite a few seams. I ended up finding some bondo hair buried under some stuff so I'm using that for the seams on the floor, and then using silicone caulking along the outside edges of the floor. This cost me like $20 in stuff I didn't have already or needed more of. Not the best solution but works for me right now.

I'm pretty sure it's illegal to install a lap belt if the vehicle came with a shoulder belt from the factory, at least in Iowa.

That could be an option but I'm worried how sticky it will stay since I'm not putting carpet back in. Doesnt that stuff get tacky when heated from the sun?

How long did the floors last with the self trappers and liquid nails? I'm welding mine in and will undercoat the underside and bedliner the topside when I'm done. I just don't know how the silicone and DAP caulk will hold up but I know it could accelerate rust if it fails. Some PO replaced the pans with no seam sealer at some point and they were totally rotted out again so I feel I should do something to seal it before driving it.

Right, I'm not one to do something twice, I always research for hours before making a decision so I can be sure to do it right the first time. I'm just broke and need it done now so I don't get stuck driving the rust free MJ on salted roads, dodging the idiots headed for the ditch.

I'm replacing the nonexistent floors in the XJ. I'm using galvanized steel from and old washer and dryer and am getting close to done fabricating. This is my winter DD for at most the next two years and then I'm getting rid of it. I am only replacing the floors because the seats were literally falling through the floor. Before we go any further, I know that the correct seam sealer is the way to go, and I know I can get it for like $35 a Quart on Amazon. Problem is, the gf unexpectedly lost her job so I don't have the extra money to buy the proper stuff right now and I just need to get it done. I already have a lot of rust reformer, primer, paint, bedliner, and undercoating so I can do everything else before and after the sealing is done. What I'm considering doing is getting some GE silicone 2 ($6) for the floor above the exhaust because it has higher heat resistance (400*), and getting some tubes of DAP ALEX PLUS for everything else since it's paintable and only $2 a tube. The GE silicone 2 is not the acidic kind so it won't cause rust while curing. The DAP is paintable so it will look better everywhere else but only has 180* temp resistance. Would it be better to seal it with this or just leave it all exposed? I'm guessing it will rust fast if it's exposed but if water gets behind the silicone it'll rust really quick.

Correct. The sending units operate the same way (at least I've yet to come across a Dakota unit that was different, what year is yours?). If you correct where each wires go using the diagrams above, it should work.

This is a better solution. Tool is cheap, but I'm cheaper than the tool

Interested in this as well. I've got to hit the trip reset about 10 times before all the numbers go to zero.

Yeah. His truck is a full 97+ swap.

Also as an FYI, these adapters on ebay have the correct plugs on each end but the wires go to the wrong pins. You can always buy one of these and cut the wires in the middle and reattach in the correct spots. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302893161216

Here are the wiring diagrams for the XJ plug (top picture) and the Dakota pump plug (bottom picture). Just cut and splice or make an adapter so you can retain the plugs for easy removal. No need to change the gauge or reprogram anything, it's plug and play. I made an adapter with a Mopar harness pigtail designed for a Dakota and an XJ fuel pump wire pigtail I cut off a spare XJ pump.