Dzimm

https://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/ This is probably the best 97+ build thread for gaining info from. There's also some posts in the diy/tech section with instructions on the swap.

That's the thing to realize, most of the experienced mechanics are gone or too old to take something like this on. You would probably only find a shop willing to do it they were a custom shop or maybe a specialty Jeep shop but even that I would doubt. A Jeep shop is mostly only going to deal with Wranglers installing lifts and light bars. Any normal mechanic shop doesn't have people with the skill or ambition to do it anymore. Money is too easy with normal services. There is definitely some shops out there that would do it but you'd be spending way more than you think. Where are you located? Maybe there is a member close to you that would be willing to offer an extra set of hands if you needed it. I know there was a post not too long ago of a member asking if another member would be willing to do the swap for them. Some of us are always willing to do some wrenching.

The last of the old videos.

I would recommend Jeep sticker as well for the decals. I really like the marine reflective black ones. They look great and at night will light up when light hits them, makes the truck more visible.

I wasn't totally comfortable when I did mine but I was completely comfortable knowing the entirely of ComancheClub is there to help . You will only get more comfortable the more you work on it. After doing the 97+ swap I was way more comfortable doing work on the MJs and XJ and at this point I would be totally confident in tearing one 100% apart and rebuilding everything and I started right where you are at just a few years ago. You won't get any sort of guarantee or warranty on anything from a shop because everything will be used parts and it's not a standard job. You are far better off learning and doing it yourself, most shops probably won't touch this project and if they do I'm sure it will be well over standard rates and you'll be without the MJ for a very long time.

The rest of the engine bay going together.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1233365790409953/ Pretty clean truck.

You can definitely sand blast it and that would be easiest. The route I'd probably go in your case is to pull the axle shafts and do a quick inspection of the internals to be sure there aren't any crazy glaring issue, put the diff cover back on and tighten it up then stuff some paper towels in the axle tubes. Sand blast away. Wipe down with some mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to get it clean then paint. After the paint is set I'd then do seals. You can do the axle shaft bearings without worrying about the gear setup and as ghetdjc320 mentioned you can get away with carrier bearings usually but there can be differences with bearing thickness and such that could change your setup a bit so if you do those I'd recommend to get some gear paint and just check your pattern to be sure nothing changed. Any bearing you replace be sure to replace the race as well. The races are matched to the bearings so keep them together.

Idk about the 44 but a 30 you can pull the carrier out and replace the seals pretty easily but you'll need the proper tool or make one to get them seated properly. Don't do bearings unless they are bad because those require a press and setting the gears back up. Just make sure when you take the carrier out you keep the retainers and bolts in the same orientation and location they came out of and be sure to keep any shims that come out in the same place they were. Some axles you can do the pinion seal without having to pull it out or set gears back up but I can't remember if the 30 or the 44 are that way for sure.

The manifolds going on.

Yeah don't pay a shop to do it, the cost would be rediculous. It's actually pretty easy with minimal fabrication required. A 97+ swap was actually my first vehicle project and when I started I had only basic mechanical experience and by the time I was done I had learned quite a lot. I also only had a basic socket set and some hand tools to do it, only fancy thing I bought was an electric impact gun to remove the flexplate bolts. As stated there are tons of build threads and writeups about the swap and you can always take pictures of how everything goes together. The easiest process will be to strip the truck, then strip the XJ and as you are stripping the XJ you will see how the stuff is installed so you know how it bolts into the MJ. Just keep things like fasteners organized in Ziploc bags and label them. We are also here to help with any questions you have. You can absolutely do this.

Well I started putting the super old videos together to finish out most of the work that was done between then and now. Didn't think I would do the videos again but here we are..

Honestly for a DD there isn't really a reason to do anything. Unless you plan to do some pretty hard offroading/rock crawling any form of lockers aren't going to do anything for you. They can actually affect gas mileage depending on what you get and how it operates. I would honestly say you'd be better off spending the money elsewhere on the truck if you aren't going to be really off-roading it, I hate to see you drop all that money because someone told you "it ain't real 4wd without a locker". That's only true if you take the term 4wd literally, 4wd really just means power can be sent to all 4 wheels of the vehicle not necessarily all 4 wheels at the same time. Open diffs on 4wd is pretty much standard it's usually an upgrade option for a locker or limited slip in any truck. If you want to do it, the cheap way is a lunchbox locker but those have a ratcheting sound when cornering and can cause some weird driving things according to some. They are usually considered annoying for a DD. Don't lunchbox the front is the general consensus that I have seen. I've never used one so can't offer first hand experience. The expensive options are just that, expensive and work well however if you aren't actually using them then it's a lot of money to blow. You could limited slip the rear but again, decent chunk of change to drop for a DD since it won't really be utilized in normal driving. I have open diffs front and rear in my 97+ swap truck and use it quite often off-road at the farm and never have gotten stuck, you just need to know the limitations and how to navigate with open diffs. Same for the Suzuki, open diffs but I drive it like a side x side and have only gotten stuck high centering it. The 92 I put a limited slip in it but that's being setup for autocross so it will actually be used.

Looks like it's just a reinforcement plate for the bumper mount and uses real nuts instead of the stupid metal clip on things. Do you have a picture of the other block you are talking about?

Got a response from the DOT, currently they are working on stuff from the end of March yet but I am in line as of today. Meaning typical government I've probably got a month or two before they start to process it. Really that's fine though, gives me time to get the XJ done and out of the shop and hopefully get the Suzuki front diff replaced before it's 96's turn in the shop.

Title application and documentation has been submitted..

That's strange but now that you mention it, that makes sense because the engine bay is black and the rear SMJ bumper is black as well. It has red paint under the black but maybe that's just on the fender I'll have to look closer at that. Thanks for the info!

Well I called the treasury office today and explained the scenario with the title and was instructed to apply for a bonded title. Basically meaning I don't have adequate proof of ownership without a title so the truck's value will be declared by the treasury office and I will need to get a bond for 1.5 times the value in order for the treasury to title it so that it is covered in the event someone comes along with a title in their name and contests ownership in the next 3 years. I've run the VIN through multiple sources and there is absolutely no public history of this truck, no accidents, no sales records, only like 5 open recalls. This leads to further prove the story I've been told about this truck. I've about finished with getting the paperwork filled out and all the necessary pictures and supporting material together and ran into a possible snag. They require a picture of the federal safety standards sticker on the door and well I've only got evidence the sticker was there... I haven't submitted anything yet but there is an option and explanation field for being unable to provide the required info so hopefully they look at it as it had a sticker at some point and is a legitimately sold truck just no longer has the sticker. I mean being on the door I could have had a totally different Jeep door and sticker with non-matching VIN so I'm sure they've run into this scenario before. I will be submitting everything within the next couple days. Hopefully it won't take long to hear back, the process has multiple different steps so it's going to take at least a few weeks maybe more to go through the whole thing.

Yeah I never actually clicked into the main registry page, I've always just clicked the year I was looking for and completely bypassed the registry main page.

no I'll be buying the repop lenses for sure, just looking for the housing the lens attaches to that is already missing the lens so that I don't have to dismantle a good light, but I don't really want to spend a fortune on half a light lol. #96 has a cracked lens but I'd rather have one that is already missing the entire lens. The reflectors I am sure I will find some kind of reflective tape or very thin reflector that has similar reflective quality as the originals. I wouldn't sell them if I couldn't find a good reflector.

Yes I have been trying to find a housing without a lens for a little while, not actively searching, just been passively looking for a cheap or free one. I really only need one side as each side is the mirror of the other. If I can get one to model from I'd gladly make the housings.

WHAAAAAT??? I didn't know this existed! Holy crap you guys spent a ton of time on this. So much for the couple hours I've been looking through VINs lol

Well I had a grand idea to compile the SMJ VINs in one place for easy reference but turns out some of the awesome members have already thought of it and done the work to compile ALL the known VINs in a freakin spreadsheet! Mind blown. Anyway figure just use this as a discussion piece then? Looks like fiatslug87 was onto this pattern of them being built within a few days of each other. #7 - 1JTMW6416HT067314 #12 - 1JTMW6417HT066446 #20 - 1JTMW6419HT067338 #24 - 1JTMW6418HT066441 #96 - 1JTMW6414HT066467 Unknown - 1JTMW6414HT066422

I can give that a shot as well. The gaps are pretty large with the gate being so bent.