cruiser54

A guy could compare smell of fluid coming from the suspect area with the fluid in the clutch master and engine dipstick. Side by side.

this^^. and we're glad you got it fixed!!

Why do you want to convert from a cold air intake to a hot air intake?

A little back story. I was Service Manager at a Jeep dealer from 1980 through 1992. During that time, I was able to order and use 13 Comanches as a perk. First one, 4 cylinder 4 speed. Second one, 4 cylinder 5 speed short bed. Third one 4.0 5 speed, 5th one was 4.0 auto. The 8 I ordered and used after that were 4.0 with the auto. Never looked back!!!

I've added a ground at the motor going to somewhere under the cowl panel before.

Have you performed/completed Tips 1 through 5 at www.cruiser54.com? Sensors provide bad info if their ground circuits are marginal. You should do the Tips first. I have a bunch of the sensor values I could provide.

You really need to complete Tips 1 through 5 at www.cruiser54.com first. I posted Tip 1 above in it's entirety since you said you had no clue on the ground locations. Go to the website for Tips 2 through 5.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX GROUND REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 72 COMMENTS The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily. All the components listed below ground at the dipstick tube stud: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition Control Module, Fuel Injectors, ECU main ground (which other engine sensors ground through, including the Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. If the whole stud turns, you can use a 7/32″ six point socket or wrench to hold it so the nut can be removed. Worst case, cut the wires and remove the stud and nut. Install new terminal eyelets on the wires when going back together. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Surfaces must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Apply a liberal coating of OxGard, which is available at Lowe’s and other stores. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, apply OxGard, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for its intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. Remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Apply OxGard. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4″ socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely with a liberal coating of OxGard. 2 STRONG suggestions regarding the ground system: I prefer to add a #4 gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18″ long with a 3/8″ lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. NAPA has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10″ long with 3/8″ terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. NAPA part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side tail lamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Add a 10 gauge wire, with an eyelet on each end, from that grounding point to a bolt on the frame. Better yet, on both Cherokees and Comanches, complete Tip 29 for the best fuel pump grounding. Be sure to scrape all mounting points to bare metal and apply OxGard also. If you want to UPGRADE YOUR GROUND AND BATTERY CABLES with custom made parts, contact Paul at www.jeepcables.com Revised 02/04/2017

Automatics had 3.55 gears. Manuals 3.07s. I always felt the manuals were slower than the autos.

Dot 4 brake fluid

Wait til it arrives and you will be blown away at how simple it is to install.

No need to replace the MAP sensor. Buy shrink tubing and a lighter.

It all needs to be redone with soldering and shrink tubing.

THIS^^

Yes. Stock is 13 pounds. 16 pound caps are readily available.

OMG, this thread is getting confusing!!! Just get the MAC's tank and put it on. Everything will be fine. Why not do it yourself?

There's probably one factory in china making these pieces of junk to be relabeled by every parts wholesaler in the world. Failure of these C.R.A.P rezzies can cause catastrophic loss of coolant resulting in engine damage. If you feel the slightest need for a new radiator, get yourself a 91 and later one and convert to open system. Cheaper than the MACs tank which is a pretty cool alternative.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 131 COMMENTS EDIT Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing.

He has spark. wouldn't have that if CPS was weak or failed.

Tip 27 may be in your future..... If you wanna be lazy, you can bypass the C101 with the CPS wires.

Likely so. What about between engine and trans?

Good plan for now. If a slave cylinder is bad, there should be fluid leaking between engine and trans.

those are the correct injectors. Pig rich is generally caused by a faulty MAP sensor reading. Any change if you unplug the MAP sensor vacuum line or electrical plug?

Try using Freeze-Off in the future. Amazing stuff.

It had a different number when I lived there. Or we used a name for it. I remember 17, 101, 280. I lived in East San Jose and worked in Palo Alto.