cruiser54

and, you must report back!

sure. As long as it's clean and shiny. You could verify the quality of the ground with a meter just to be sure, but you're probably fine. ANYTHING is better than the original spot!!

do this: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GROUND NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 27 COMMENTS The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple: Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Post navigation PREVIOUS POST

LOL. I was wondering about that!

195F

It will be stamped right on it.

Use a Mopar 195* stat.

It's better, but I would want to see it from the side.

bypass it.

Yep. Dirty cables?

No notice was sent. There was a TSB on it though. Remedy was to index the dizzy, not replace. HERE’S WHY DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING IS SO IMPORTANT: Distributor indexing explained: For clarification though, that’s not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It’s there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You’ll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to “guess” where it is and does a heck of a job at it. As for the “timing”, it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this: When the ECU yells “Fire” to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far? What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip? Poor ignition performance, bucking, jerking, longer crank times. The factory was aware of this and issued a Technical Service Bulletin on it. This Tip, #13, is a condensed version of that factory TSB. You wouldn’t believe how many we found out of whack when I worked at the dealership. Yours is probably messed up also. RARELY did we find one set accurately.

Many diagrams are off. Use this one to get the dizzy close to correct and then make your adjustment after cutting the tab.

H is the 10th digit in the VIN?

89 and 90 had no c101 connector.

http://cruiser54.com/?p=35

If they wanna go through a gate and past a Doberman and motion detectors, have at it.

LOL.

I knew about the Hummers, but not the Bricklins.

Besides AMC and Jeeps, anyone know what else the AMC20 was used in?

There's gotta be spares floating around. I have a few early ones.

Run a string around the pulleys and measure it. Good starting point.

Eagle, I would skip the auto. Too many unknowns and a lot of hassle.

Trevor supplies rebuilt like new injectors. He can be contacted here: trevor.skankfootracing@gmail.com

Hmmmm. what to do.....