cruiser54

Your 2.5 is TB injected. 4.0 is multi-point injected. You have one injector in the throttle body and the 4.0 has no injector in the throttle body. .

Could be low on freon..........

I think you should get under your truck and look at the trans mount and bolts. Look at the motor mounts, too. Did you FEEL the clutch slipping? Sometimes crap can get thrown up on the exhast from puddles etc and smell somewhat like clutch burning smell, as can brakes.

You'd probably be just fine doing that. Keep it high and dry.

Just do this and be done with it: Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. 　 Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.

67,000 mile timer. I remember it well because we would do the 60,000 mile service, and then about 7,000 miles later the light would turn on and customers would be mad.

It would be nice to read the fuel pressure while driving. If your fuel filter were filled with crap, you could have fuel pressure at idle but not enough volume of fuel for rapid acceleration or pulling hills.

Don't be dissin' us Renix boys yo. LOL.

Like my new avatar? LOL. Did you ever set your TPS using my instructions?

I'm interested to learn this, too.

FWIW, the reverse lites are on the "trans" circuit.

First off, clean your battery cables and terminals. How are the other ends of those cables? Covered in oil? Starter covered in oil?

Well, if the new pump was an Airtex, be prepared for a failure.

Get Cherokee doors.

Sensor ground circuit resistance is too high. Here's what you need to do about that: Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold. Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector. Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender. You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine. Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing. Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement. I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done. Revised 03-09-12

The trailing edge of the rotor should be .020" past the #1 terminal of the cap. Thanks for the photos BTW.

What are they worth these days?

Thanks for that diagram I was thinking the sensor tip was orientated 90 deg. from what the picture shows. Makes sense now. That's what I thought. Can you post up that pic?

CPS wouldn't cause that but a TPS could.

The ground screw is on the driver's side inner fender near the EGR solenoid. The plug for the lamps is forward of the air cleaner and behind the driver's headlight.

Good idea. Cut the rest of the dizzy cap away so #1 terminal can be seen better and take another photo. I wanna steal it from you.

Ever clean your throttle body and IAC? -------------------------------------------------------------------- The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to) “Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it. Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

I've got a diagram of it but can't post it up. PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.

Great photos!! I would cut that center piece of plastic out so you've got one big window to see the terminal easier. Also, the balancer should be set at TDC.

Absolutely make sure plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are fresh. They are supposed to be replaced every 30,000 miles. Do you know when it was last done? Also, spray all around the intake and throttle body with throttle body cleaner and see if there are any vacuum leaks.