cruiser54

Take a peek into the oil filler hole. Is it sludgy, caked, or otherwise unsightly? And, ditch the Fram for a Wix, Napa, or Mopar. How do you know the previous filter was a food one?

If it's boiling over, how do you know it holds pressure? I don't know any way to test those plastic caps. I ordered an adapter for my pressure tester to fit on the bottle 2 days ago. Costs $44. Got one on ebay for $28 delivered.There was one for the caps, too but I didn't bother checking the price, knowing it would probably be in the same range.

Good chance the radiator is not up to snuff. How old is it? Ever have it rodded out? Have you ever considered using punctuation in your posts to reduce the fatigue it causes us old guys when we read them?

What brand of oil filter are you using? Read this: http://web.archive.org/web/201009261333 ... /lucas.htm

I was just pointing out that those wires are available at the C101. If you're more comfortable with it, run your own harness to the TCU from the TPS trans side.

Are you staying with Renix?

Try adjusting up the rear brake shoes.

I'm not worried. Then again, it's not my Jeep. LOL. Actually, I have such confidence in you that I closed up my wiring diagram book.........

Hopefully that's true.

XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa). TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

Either someone with the 88 Renix electrical FSM will have trace them out (I'm sure someone does) on the wiring diagram, or you will have to ohm them out to the distant end. I would but do not have the Renix FSMs. There could be junctions inside the harness along the way too. If you can not verify with an FSM, take a chance and connect them and see what happens. Either the TCU will function or not. I don't think anything will smoke. If no workee, then dig in. That's what I did originally.Provided the pin numbers on both the TPS connector and the TCU with color codes. The only connector that carries the signals is the C101 at C-1, C-2, and C-3.

The original TPS only had the flat connector if it was manual trans. I don't know if the TPS wires for the TCU were included in the manual trans harness.

Yours is 231. The other is 242. That info is on the tag on the back side of the t-case.

What year ECU and TCU?

TPS black/ground goes to a tan and orange at D-3. TPS blue/output to TCU goes to gray/tracer at D-2. TPS gray/voltage supply from TCU goes to red at D-1. Ignition input to TCU is yellow at D-16.

Good chance the 90 is 21 spline and the 91 is 23 spline input on the transfer case.

Maybe this will help. http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/2005/0 ... -info.html

Do this with the 94 and be done with it. Easy. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 07/24/2012

Plugs into the top of the diff on the driver's side. It's then zip-tied to the upper control arm and then meanders it's way up to the brake booster area.

The ground for that light system is on the driver's side inner fender and is held on with a sheet metal screw. Start there. The screw is usually loose and there's corrosion inder the terminal. Also, just in front of the air cleaner is a 10 wire plug that can get corroded inside and also have wires chafe. The sockets are also a good possibility as previously stated.

There will be no clutter in the engine bay. Quit worrying and just do it.

These were taken with the truck off, as it exaggerated it a bit more for the picture. I admit I was relatively surprised with the difference. I do hope that this may also eliminate my partial illuminated dash turn indicator, I imagine i'll have to replace those plug in housings to cure that... When I measured voltage on the passenger stock plug with the drivers side light connected and on I was getting 10.89V, when at the same time across the battery posts I had 12.87V. When disconnecting the drivers bulb passenger plug voltage went up to 11.9V. Surprisingly with the motor not running I had almost a volt of loss through the stock harness (when it was running and i took this measurement it was a 1/2 volt different). The wire loom I made used h4 ends from http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html that had 12ga leads and high temp. I then ran a 12ga wire to each light from the relay rather than looping off. My relays are mounted in the "relay center" as I scrapped a few stock relays and mounts on my last trip to the jy, It makes it look a bit more factory. With my new harness and one bulb connected the other plug reads exactly the same as the battery. I really doubt there would be in voltage drop in 12ga wire. I'll get the passenger side IPF installed completely today and aim the light. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com. Ever done this mod? Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

So you did get it wet!!!

Ask him if the pan is rectangular and if it has a drain plug. If so, it's an AW4. U-Pick-It here in Arizona gets $86 for an AW4..

Great job!! And I'll say this. In real life, the difference with and without the harness on stock lamps is more noticeable than in the photos.