cruiser54

Could the starter be bad? Did you use the same one?

Yes, and also with the Autopal E-codes. I live in a rural area and have to watch for game myself.

Yes, It's getting spark and fuel. :clapping: I forgot to mention that. :doh: Well then, it's either getting not enough fuel or not good enough spark. How did you test for this? Like I said, "I'm no mechanic and do not claim to be one." My father-in-law tested those things while I was at work one day. He said that he thought it was the distributor or the crank shaft position sensor. I just prefer to get a diagnose from true comanche people to make sure that I am fixing the right thing and not spending money on something that doesn't need it right now. Then check the fuel pressure with a gauge. And check the CPS output like this: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011 Tested CPS using a volt meter. According to Haynes Repair Manual, it should show no continuity. It tested at roughly 241. Am I correct in assuming that is the problem? If so what causes these things to go out? Age? :thumbsup: Thanks again brother for all the help!!!!! Test it using the above instructions. Haynes sucks.

With the stock headlamps and the harness, expect a 30% or more improvement in your XJ's lighting.

Yeah. What he^^ said.

The harness alone with stock lights makes a big difference. With H4s even more and it's more than enough. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-H4- ... 4cf8f40eb7 http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--900 ... D7540.aspx Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.

Yes, It's getting spark and fuel. :clapping: I forgot to mention that. :doh: Well then, it's either getting not enough fuel or not good enough spark. How did you test for this? Like I said, "I'm no mechanic and do not claim to be one." My father-in-law tested those things while I was at work one day. He said that he thought it was the distributor or the crank shaft position sensor. I just prefer to get a diagnose from true comanche people to make sure that I am fixing the right thing and not spending money on something that doesn't need it right now. Then check the fuel pressure with a gauge. And check the CPS output like this: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011

I bought 3 sets, one set for each Jeep. Couldn't be happier. Did you see an improvement in mpg? Also throttle response? Throttle response, yes. Idle quality, yes. MPG improvement, no.

I bought 3 sets, one set for each Jeep. Couldn't be happier.

So, basically, no worries. Go for it. Any questions as you go, post them up.

Off slightly at the bottom. No worse than some factory ports matching. Use the gasket for the manifold you're using and it's fine.

Engine oil.

Just think of it as a longblock swap. Use the 95 head and block and use your flywheel, dizzy, sensors, manifolds, valve cover. Use an intake/exhaust gasket for the 88.

Haven't found an early HO yet that wasn't drilled and tapped for the knock sensor.

Good for you. Be sure to oil the o-rings well upon assembly, and clean the manifold holes of carbon.

I know that, but does the OP know that? 31 PSI with the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator, 39 PSI with the vacuum disconnected.

Yes, It's getting spark and fuel. :clapping: I forgot to mention that. :doh: Well then, it's either getting not enough fuel or not good enough spark. How did you test for this?

You'll be fine. I've done a few of these. You don't have to swap the head either if you don't want to. Just use your intake and exhaust manifolds, dizzy, flywheel/flexplate and valve cover. Be sure to remove the coolant galley plug on the 95 engine so you have a place for your CTS.

Put it in your signature!! I can't remember when they went to "flash to pass" high beams. I know my wife's 88 XJ doesn't have that but my 90 MJ does.

What year is your Jeep?

Any injector other than the original Renix are an upgrade because they don't split and spray fuel in the engine bay. Try programbo on Cherokee Forum.

If you read closely at the site, you will see that he has injectors for your Jeep that are exactly what you're looking for.

Keep us informed.

www.precisionautoinjectors.com.

This wouldn't hurt either: I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and adding dielectric grease before plugging it back together. Be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then dielectric grease should be added before plugging them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 03/15/2012