cruiser54

There's an easy way and a hard way to do this. If you're hell-bent on using all the late model electricals, that's the hard way. Here's the easy way. The Ho isn't magic by any means in comparison to the Renix. 8 more horsepower at the top end of the RPM range and no more torque than a REnix. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. 　 Revised 07/24/2012 　

The 7.5 fuse in the box is for the Power/Comfort switch only, along with reverse lights. The inline fuse up under the passenger side dash wrapped in yellow tape is the one that powers theTCU.

PM me your address and I'll send you one.

Pins 85 and 87 are fed by the ECU. 87 power and 85 ground.

For the most part. There's a little tag on them to help you figure it out.

Vacuum over electric switch for the 4wd light on the dash.

Exactly why I only use the factory stat for $23.35 at the dealer. 83501426AC. I went through 3 Stants before biting the bullet and getting the factory one. I'm not freezing my butt off to save $12.

5/16" square drive. An 8mm or 5/16" allen wrench can be ground down to fit.

Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Revised 12-04-2012 LOOK good? Can you SEE electricity?

Go for the HB first. Easy to see.

Or 91.

Glad to hear it!!

Very funny!! I guess I did care more once we got more info.............

It is rarely the ECU. That's why we were prying for more info. Click on the link in my signature and do some of the ground and connector refreshing and save yourself some headaches.

Seperate manifolds.

I had a rattling/klunking steering stabilizer shock that drove me nuts. Maybe?

I forget and don't care anymore.

This is more along my lines of thinking.

That's why there's corn syrup, corn sweetener, corn oil etc in everything. That stuff is cheap because of the subsidies.

Aw, come on guys!! They're from the government and they're here to help us.

Are you purposely giving us an absolute minimum amount of info?

What are you trying to do?

Good. Have you tried wiggling the harnesses under the hood when the problem occurs?

When you bypassed the C101, did you solder or use butt connectors?

Yep. Rotella and Wix. Go together like peas and carrots.