cruiser54

Good to know. Hopefully, the OP has an auto.

No wiring needed. Do this: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 07/24/2012

How did you adjust the new TPS? Have you ever done a sensor ground test or a complete ground refreshing? All of these procedures are covered in the link in my signature.

Way more noticeable on the XJs as far as noise. In 87 they came out with a TSB and retrofit kit with the resistor. Became factory equipment through about 96. Like i said, what the hell do i know :rotf: Although i am suprised to hear, does that mean there are some MJ that came without the resistor?

Yep. Only there to reduce fuel pump noise. I was thinking about this and had a thought ( :idea:) The resistors purpose is to regulate the volts to the pump based on the demand for fuel by the engine. Thus leading me to believe that removing it might cause the premature failure of the pump. Without the resistor the pump would be running full tilt at all times instead of only when needed. I would not be surprised if i am way off base, but just don't understand why they would put something on simply to make the pump 'quieter. :dunno: ' My 2 cents. ;) Was designed to run full tilt. No problems. They did it because customers whined about the "hissing" noise from the gas tank.

Yep. Only there to reduce fuel pump noise.

Swagger up to the counter and tell 'em you want some of them there 795 bulbs.

#795 bulbs.

Take a sample with ya.

That size plastic line can be purchased in bulk at industrial supply/big truck parts houses. Just gently twist your old connectors off the old line and install on the new line.

That's all I had on my supercharged Miata. Kept me from leaning out and was plenty good enough.

Fit nicely on XJ and MJ?

OOh. Post up where to get it!!

That would be cool, wouldn't it? This might help you choose. I'd rather have a vacuum gauge than a clock....

But, does that chart take into account a lift, the weight of larger tires etc?

Vacuum gauge tells no lies.

Cool. Thanks. I still haven't figured out how to post photos here or I woulda posted the scan I sent you!! LOL.

Appears fine. Pop the cover and inspect the gears to be sure.

It's also a permanently mounted diagnostic tool. Cheap and easy to install. No more charts, discussion, guesswork. Just mount it in plain view so you can see it at a glance. Here's the instructions: http://www.ehow.com/how_8098066_drive-vacuum-gauge-save-gasoline.html

I wouldn't even pull the pan if it were me. I'd just do the Rotella/MMO treatment with a good filter. I wish I could find the thread on another forum where a guy had sludge as bad as this, maybe worse, and monitored the progress using the Rotella/MMO recipe. Amazing how well it worked. He later removed the pan for a different reason and posted photos. It looked better than 80% of the 4.0s I've ever pulled the pan off of.

One of the best things you can do for your brake system is to completely bleed/flush it every 30,000 miles. Even using just Dot 4, the brake fluid will perform better when the brakes get hot, and you will have flushed abrasive contaminants from the system.

Install a vacuum gauge in your dash. Drive so that you maintain the highest vacuum. Works for EVERY kind of vehicle, gear ratio, tire size etc.

That's good. There are tests you can do with a simple meter. I've taken the IATs out and cleaned them. before with good results. Might be worth a try.

Intake Air Temp sensor. Screwed into the intake manifold a few inches behind the throttle body.

Dopey me ASSumed he had an AW4....