cruiser54

Off the top of my head, I'd say 84 to 96.

Get Carter or Bosch. Airtex has a very bad reputation.

Post 27 updated with edited instructions and photos. Comments?

First post has an index in it. Post 11 is TB and IAC cleaning. Just in case anyone else wants to see the index, here it is. Revised 03-04-2014  Instructions have been written *  Photos included with instructions ** 1-Ground refreshing* 2-C101 connector refreshing** 3-Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing** 4-Coil/ICM contacts* 5-Checking sensor grounds* 6-Sensor ground upgrade** 7-CPS testing and adjusting** 8-TPS testing and adjusting** 9-ECU connector refreshing* 10-Trans plug connector refreshing* 11-Throttle body and IAC cleaning* 12-Setting your 4.0 to #1 TDC** 13-Renix Distributor indexing** 14-Restoring throttle butterfly adjustment* 15-Rear main seal diagnosis* 16-Vacuum test for exhaust restriction* 17-HO engine into Renix* 18-Improving the instrument panel ground** 19-Headlight harness installation* 20-4WD shifting tips* 21- Renix EGR valve test* 22- Renix vacuum harnesses** 23- CPS timing advance mod** 24-4.0 Engine date codes** 25-Valve cover mod** 26- Oil Filler cap Mod* 27- C101 Connector Elimination

Pretty much. But the wires may be faded, slightly different colors. Use location, one by one! And, keep an eye on Post 27. Me and Hornbrod are updating it almost daily.

I want you to use the instructions and then let me know, good or bad.

Look what our buddy Hornbrod did for us......PICS!!!!

Well, your question made me clarify it. Read post 27 now and see what you think.

What you want to do here is cut the crimp out of each set of three and bring both sets of three wires together and solder them together. All 6 wires. . These particular wires will not end up in your normal C101 elimination loom. See the last photo. I am updating post 27 as we go. There are no photos as of yet. Thanks for the help.

Cruiser so you have by any chance have a write up on this c101 bypass? Well $#!&, I guess I have a first draft now!!!! Hornbrod has the photos and I'm sure he'll post them first chance he gets. Someone has to be a guinea pig and do the project, using these instructions and making any suggestions that would be helpful, so that this becomes a "Tip".

No I don't as I did my first one last week. Here we go, I guess. C101 connector elimination Unbolt the 2 halves of the C101. On each half there is a plastic cover where the wires enter. They are removable but you'll probably end up busting them off. Lightly bolt the C101 back together. Peel back the split-loom covering from the body side of the C101 connector down to where the harness splits and goes toward the firewall, pretty much below the MAP sensor. . On the engine side, remove the split loom about the same distance. See first photo. Now you can see from one side of the C101 to the other. Beginning at the top row, closest to the motor, be absolutely sure you cut the matching wires on each side of the connector off to about 1/2 inch. ONE AT A TIME.The wires may be wound a bit in their looms. See the first photo. Get them unwound neatly and do the following, ONE AT A TIME. Slide your shrink tube over one wire. Solder the wires together and then heat the shrink tubing over the solder joint. Keep going until you've done all 22 or so of them. You will find a brown with white tracer on each side of the C101. Although there is only one wire going into each side of the C101, further down each wire going away from the C101, you will find that there is a 3-wire crimp on each one if you've split the loom covering back far enough. See the second photo. What you want to do here is cut the crimp out of each set of three and bring both sets of three wires together and solder them together. All 6 wires. . These particular wires will not end up in your normal C101 elimination loom. See the last photo. After all the soldering and shrink tubing is done, bundle the wires together in a new piece of 3/4" split loom. Tape it up and secure it to either the old C101's bolt hole and/or anything else along the firewall. Third photo. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Need or want some C101 elimination photos?

Know how to post photos on here?

What got me leaning towards that is when my buddy bypassed the C101 with his cPS wires, then the sensor grounds. Had an odd cold running issue. We hooked up my factory tester and monitored the sensors. The CTS looked fine until he barely wiggled the C101 and the reading went to hell. I have some photos but I'm too much of a dumbass to post them here.

I did my first C101 elimination last week on my neighbor's 87. Real easy. We soldered and used shrink tubing. One wire at a time.

Did you drill the upper hole bigger in the new one? Test the new one anyways.

I mean did you test the old one before you replaced it or the new one after? Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

He's putting a 4.0 from an auto trans ZJ into an MJ with a manual trans. Therefore, he will need a pilot bearing in the 97's crankshaft as it currently has none.

Did you ever test the CPS before and after?

IDK. Intermittent idle flare has always been TPS related.

I don't know about pilot bearing. Both Renix and HO manifolds are prone to cracking. Have yours welded and put a flex pipe in.

Of course it was. The injectors have nothing to do with idle flare on start-up. It's TPS and it's related grounds/connections.

What year WJ?

Thanks for sticking with it.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/ How much stuff has to be removed to gain access to the intake / exhaust manifold bolts? Nothing. But, if that were the sole issue, it would idle high all the time.... Never a bad idea to just snug them up a bit. You can also TEST for vacuum leaks with some carb cleaner sprayed around suspected areas while the engine is idling. You've done a great job of eliminating some possibilities. Now, your TPS could be bad, or out of adjustment. Most likely bad.