cruiser54

No!!! Leave it alone. Run Rotella T3 oil with one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and let it dissolve slowly.

That's not original. as for electrical issues, click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5, and 27 would be even better than 2.

This^^. Time to check all fluid levels and condition anyway.

Are you done yet?

Just a WJ....99 to 2004. are you done yet?

Don't get me started.......... I knew it was a bad sign years ago when kids couldn't tell time from a clock with hands on it instead of digital.............

99 to 2004. Make sure you get the lines that exit the master cylinder.

Junkyard. WJ master, lines, and booster. Guts of a prop valve from a 94 to 98 ZJ.

AMC was purchased by Chrysler in 1987. Chrysler had to honor certain parts contracts so slowly phased in some of their stuff by 89 for the most part.

I use it every day.

My birthday is next month Don......

the muffler shop will make me what for $90? A bung hole, a cross over pipe? The Walker down pipe is only $45 and it has the bung hole, although I might have to extend the wires on the o2 sensor. I was just curious if anyone had done this or otherwise had insight on whether it would mate to Cat on my old exhaust. Wires will reach....

WJ is better, and way easier to find. I've done both. WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylindere that make putting things together MUCH easier.

Click on the link in my signature. Do Tips 3,4, and 7.

Of course!!

Nah. It's pretty forgiving. If it wasn't, we never woulda been able to do what we did/do with it.

Trust me...... Garbage into a computer equals garbage out.

Very common in the day. Bad TPS tells the ECU that the throttle is open when it isn't.

Yup. Click on the link in my signature for "tech photos" and scroll through. You'll see it.

Use the correct IAC. TEST your TPS using this: RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done. 1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up. 2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over. Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage. TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used. Revised 12-15-2013

No. Not necessarily at all. Check your gear ratios next.

Let's wait and see.

Click on the link in my signature and go to Tip 27.

Not necessarily. They've been known to come back. A local here got his full of water in a river, got it out of the river and drove it slipping and steaming to the trailhead, drained the pan, added motor oil to it as that was all he had, drove it home, and did a few drain and fills with ATF. Still driving it.

Drain and refill. Repeat a few more times.