cruiser54

I never heard that.

I wouldn't.

what about removing and cleaning the bleeder orifices?

Sorry to say it, BUT the key word above is "advertise". I think Don may have a before/after dyno with the addition of the 99.5+ intake to share. The factory claimed 195 horsepower, including a number of other minor tweeks made. Surely if it made a bigger horsepower difference, the factory would have reported it? agreed. at that point, they were more concerned about emissions than horsepower.....

Welcome to the addiction.

Then the fuel pump hot and/or ground wire has an air gap caused by whatever you removed. Follow the wires from the fuel pump and see where the break is. BTW, what model/engine/etc. is/was the truck? It's an 89 4.0 auto 4x4. Here's a good mod to address the grounding issue. http://cruiser54.com/?p=249

Good time to replace the soft lines anyway. Have you removed that bleeder completely and checked for blockage? For those of you needing help bleeding brakes, check this out. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

there was also an OD drive ratio change that went along with the 21-23 spline output change in (mid)1991 Don, are you thinking the 2wd got the ratio change in 1990 instead of 1991? Now I'm not sure

Cherokee Forum classifieds http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f72/784-703-710-injectors-222140/

I thought it was 91 and coincided with the release of the HO.....

Just use the intake/exhaust gasket for the intake manifold you have. If you wanna get fancy, port match both intake manifold and head ports to the gasket.

All the blocks have the threaded hole for the knock sensor.

it a bolt on piece but AFAIK you need to drill holes in older blocks to put it... Nope. Just need the main bearing cap bolts/studs.

That is NOT a downshift cable.........I'll bet you the guy/gal is experiencing torque converter lockup.

Pull the motor out and see if it's binding?

too difficult to fix considering it`s basicly a magnet with a coil around it, rocket science I guess.....

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. And as I said before, that won't fix an issue with the tubes fouling on the intake runners. The Renix intake has the runners much lower on it than either of the HO style intakes. If the header tubes have too gentle of a radius out of the exhaust ports they will hit the intake runners, and a grinder isn't going to fix that (not in a way that works). A stock HO header, no big deal, do a little clearance work on the flanges if need be. But why run a stock header? You're referring to the late late models with the swooped up intake manifolds that take that header. Correct. That won't work. But. get one for a 91 to 96 and you're fine.

It's an advantage also. More power. Even more if you have a custom built downpipe without the factory crush in it. Off to work.............. have you got a picture of how you get rid of the crush? I've read how to, just can't picture it... I tried to get a photo with no success. Do you have a lift on your Jeep?

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. Yes.

easy to address. I have photos.

It's an advantage also. More power. Even more if you have a custom built downpipe without the factory crush in it. Off to work..............

Exhaust ports are identical. HO exhaust manifold on Renix As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube also. does the HO headpipe connect to the tailpipe over the crossmember without modification? Yes.

Exhaust ports are identical. HO exhaust manifold on Renix As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube also.

Swap the drive units is all you have to do.

I think that is a common problem with SMP units (and others). I could have pointed you to a OEM CPS. Not a guarantee. I've had Mopar units with low output. According to my buddy in field engineering at Chrysler it's a supplier problem across the board.