omega_rugal

a new record, good for dyno pulls only

According to that chart, Renix and early mopar are identical, is that correct? how they got rid of the EGR?

bored throtle body and removing the exhaust restriction are easy tweaks.

This

right fender and grill are out, whoever ' fixed' the truck deserves to eat $#!&, they didnt even bothered to straighten it, just pull the thing toghter and weld

that part is under heavy stress whenever you turn , anything that prevents the rails from moving away from each other helps...

I'm going to remove all the interior, swap a 97+ dash, bucket seats... the idea is to strip the truck entirely, i assume i will end up with a doorless cab attached to a X frame. this way it will uncover any rust or hidden damage, and give clear access, right now on the list is to fix or replace the passenger side rail, it was damaged in an accident and not fully fixed by the PO, also there is rust on the floors that needs patching, the driver side hinge is loose all this while i take the engine apart for rebuild, it s been running weird lately and i suspect a broken spring

empty

What would be the minimum metal you need to rebuild an MJ using XJ parts? my plan is to strip the MJ to its bare minimum, leave only the MJ specific parts, excluding the obvios bed and tailgate, from the doors forward the cab + the X frame are unique right? doors, fenders, hood exchange with the XJ

puul it out and do a proper rebuild, if you try to move it like this something is going to break... soak it entirely in oil for a week if neccesary but don't try to turn it with all that rust there

no egr

for a 30 year old engine thta was designed like 50 years ago, going syntetic makes little difference

the intake feels solid, no loose bolts/nuts, i checked for vacuum leaks today and found none, took out 1 and 6 and they look as clean as yesterday so it may be a long term problem... due the way my lpg system is rigged, this may be it, thrttole response is a little slow, that may be the lean phase it´s causing trouble...

it´s gonna take some weird bending since is too short

the AX15 may be the best choice... a 95+ with external slave

i changed them a month or 2 before the conversion, that was 4 years ago, so almost all of their life have been running on lpg, miles? id unno, the odometer broke long ago carbon buildup in 2-5 was almost non existant, only 1 and 6 had some but nothing that prevented them from firing, it was just there now that i think of it, 1 and 6 are in the opposite sides of the engine, all lpg comes from the throttle body, no fancy multipoint injection, unequal air fuel ratio? if so, shouldn´t the outer cylinders get the LEANER mix?

today i got some free time to work on the MJ, and pulled the spark plugs, 2 thru 5 were clean, they had a thin layer of carbon but could be scratched off easily, below the electrodes were good and whiteish in color... but 1 and 6... they had more carbon build up, it burns lpg so is not gasoline related, all the plugs were dry so is not oil or water getting on the combustion chamber, any ideas? dust?

it can run on good old mineral, synthetic can last longer but the 4.0 is a dirty engine, it will turn it into black goo very soon, as for the weight depends on its health, does it burn oil right now?

for a daily driver you don't need to regear or change your axle, unles you do stuff like heavy loading, hauling, offroading, really huge tires... i would take care of that overheating issue first, since you say you have little experience when it comes to mechanics this i would recommend, and don't worry you will learn - flush the system, unplug and clean all hoses, use pressurized water to psuh out ALL the rust inside the block until water comes clean, replace hoses if worn - if you still have the closed cooling system make sure you brup all air out, air in the system is bad, also make sure there are no leaks, if the system can not build pressure, it will overheat... those 2 points are not difficult to do and may fix the problem

yep 2-3-4-5 looks like theyr are running lean, 1-6 look better... since everything is new and clean... i have no idea, it may be a constellation of causes

This. rust is very bad for the cooling system, not just blocks the flow, it acts as an insulator somehow. i have a 97 Ford taurus with the 3.0 vulcan, which is well known for it´s corrosion issues and surprise surprise my heater core is plugged with rust, i bypassed it and while i was at it, i did a complete flush, you won't believe the amount of rust that came out, after a few flushes the water finally came out clean and reassembled everything. after that i took it out for a test and realized that the system is working waaay better, i removed the condenser like a year ago because it was bad, the radiator is totally exposed to the incoming air, i also wired the fans to a switch under the dashboard so i can turn them on and off at will, with the fans off, it only starts to overheat if i stay idle for 10 mins or so, in city driving the temps raise slowly and in the highway it can go with no fans all day, before the flush, no matter what, after 5 mins i had to use the fans to cool it down and keep them on for the rest of the day, so we agree rust is BAD...? disconnect all hoses and use pressured water to make sure ALL accumulated rust comes out, refill and test. i did the same to the MJ when i changed the waterpump a while back and has not overheated ever since oh and by flush i mean not just drainign the coolant and refilling, use pressurized water to force everything out, also clean the hoses from inside

put it inline with a pcv valve

get an oil catch can, it doens have to be fancy

AFAIK there are some aftermarket heating strips you glue to the windshield, but don't take my word for it

search for complete but broken trucks, strip what you need, sell the rest as scrap, you must invest more at first but you can get some profit in the end of course you need room to put the truck while you strip it...