omega_rugal

Try LPG... :yes:

as far as i know and from what i have read... yes, all heads interchange as long as you match intakes and exhaust headers

AMC works (or doesn`t) in misterious ways...

mmm are you sure you are getting good oil pressure in the tranny?

Rotella is not sold here, but mobil and valvoline are... wait, that supertech brand is actually good? i though they were cheap rebranded walmart garbage

the MJ has 170k on the odometer, but it was rebuilt at some point, runnin strong i got these cans cheap, its regular price is like twice as much, i have always used high mileage quaker state products

soo pretty much anything from 80 and up will have electronic ignition already, i won`t have to worry about it then...

bad sign...

it hurts to realize that after literaly replacing the entire tranny...

got a good offer for 5 quaters of bardhal fus1on, it still a few more months for an oil change but i`ll be ready, this oil is supposed to have the bardhal 1 aditive already, but is it really good? does it really have the zinc content that protects from wear?

you drove in OD all the time?

losing power when pressing the gas pedal has nothing to do with the ignition, you are giving it air but not enough fuel, the ecu uses the throttle position + manifold pressure and to some degree the coolant and air temp to calculate how much fuel to deliver in that particular condition unless it`s some weird domino effect caused by several failing sensors, i would start there, TPS and MAP...

check TPS, MAP... your problem is the fuel system, leave the ignition alone

changing the ECU won`t give you much of an upgrade other than altering the shift points, if anything... adding more beef to the trans cooler and/or adding better clutches are worthy upgrades, if you can afford them... also adding the manual shifter has more advantages than you think: - with the proper wiring you can keep the TCU if you want to go auto at anytime - you can start in 2nd on snow or mud (you can`t manually start in 2nd on a stock aw4) - for uphill/downhill you can select the right gear faster than the TCU can predict and stay on that gear, no more gear hunting - on the highway you can go throught the gears and lock the TC sooner for better MPGs and many more

i think the lead made the difference, too bad is poisonous to everything that breathes

if you cut and hack the proper wires/sending units of course you can...

i need one of those for a project...

do anybody knows which year these engines got electronic ignition? or they always came OEM with old breaker and cap?

ok i found it, i dropped the starter again and fully dissasemble it this time, turns out the bendix gear is giving up, it engages but can not turn, sometimes it does turn, sometimes it grinds, sometimes does nothing, i need a new bendix but i can get it to unscrew from the other gears, do i just pull it or what? i had enough with this truck, once it works i`ll sell it, the lpg may give it some added value... also i need a good full size truck so better start saving...

get / make an oil catch can, oil vapours in the 4.0 are a problem, they clog the oil filter, TB and sometimes they even manage to foul the spark plugs in severe cases... get the can is well worth it... the CCV system itself doesn`t "rob" much power but when it fails and everything gets covered by oil and dust, you do lose power... what about emission? AFAIK modifing the CCV could not make you pass the inspection, if emissions are not an issue you may as well get rid of all EGR related hardware, the egr is there to control NOx emissions at the expense of power

i had previusly moved the rad all the way forward, nearly touches the grill, but guess what, the blades will protude from the top and bottom of the rad, maybe if i use a smaller fan

i will take it apart once i get the right tools, also there`s aguy who is interested in the tranny (42RE)... i`m definitly swapping the water pump/fan clutch/fan assembly to the MJ, never liked the offset fan of the old renix, too bad the radiator is too tall to fit, not even after the mod i previously made for the open cooling rad, still like and inch taller... the interiors are bad but exterior is in good shape except for the paint, nearly 0 rust, i`m having second thoughs on sending it to the gutter... if i only had time to work on the engine...

some higher power simply doesn`t want me to drive my 95 ZJ... not even a week after i finally got the lpg working and this morning the engine died, refused to turn, dropped the starter to see if that was the problem but nope, the engine is stuck... after such dissapointing results i have decided to discard the truck, it wasn`t my favorite anyway, but i want to keep anything i can use in my 88 MJ and sell the rest to make up for the money i spend on it... from a 1995 ZJ 4.0 HO what can be reused in the 88 MJ?

on a second though, a less restrictive exhaust would also decrease the dinamic compression at low revs, a bit which may explain your loss of mpgs, on an HO the valve overlap and scaveging effect is expected and also the decrease in dinamic compression.. more on the subject: according to strokers calculator, the OEM renix camshaft profile is the only one with advance/retard of -8, by moving this value to 0, DC raises, how much degrees of advance /retard gives you moving forward o backwards one tooth of the timing chain?

last update yes, someone else bought it and is restoring it, painted it gold and... slapped a chevy 350 in it... oh and mistery solved, it`s an 84...