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NOTE: Knock Sensor (KS) is a shielded circuit (dashed lines) tied to vehicle GND (G105). You'll need to wrap circuit with metal foil.

Your right about accuracy. 88Elect Manual calls circuit SYNC Supply 7.1V. I do believe 88 corrected mistakes made in the 87 manual. Still both 87&88 show C104_F to C201_C16 as being part of the Engine Harness (E) while actually its part of the Engine Control Harness (EC).

Thanks, but I’m not looking for a Repair Manual, this manual I’m looking for is strictly ‘Theory of Operations’ printed by Jeep.

C231 is on the Alternator Harness (A) (not shown but called out on 4.0L Engine Control page). Alternator Harness connects to C105 Engine Harness. Poster needs to create a signature for his vehicle. I think he's running SBEC not RENIX.

Password change with verification helped me, but next day problem did return. Needed to also change from using Display name to using EMAIL address for signing-in purposes. No problem since.

1986 last year for the CJ's. Great buy. Had the 85CJ, same color except mine was soft top with soft doors. Was eaten by rust, but still the nicest go-cart I've ever owned.

If you're using a keyboard. Num Lock ON, press and hold Alt key, type 234, release Alt key. At the time I didn't know what a PITA this would cause. Ω

Sorry. Not paying attention. RENIX years only testing here. Disregard.

Look for fuel in the vacuum line between the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and the intake manifold. Checking for leaky FPR.

Before dropping the tank, run some preliminary voltage checks first. Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for Battery_Voltage_(B+) on the following pins (use battery_negative terminal for ground): D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D1_6: At KEY ON only (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)). During CRANK Hot at all times. D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON and Hot during CRANK).

Goggle Maps and its front wheel drive.

Funny you say that, because now I can see it in the wiring diagrams if Fog Lamp SW is ON and Dimmer SW is in LO. Headlamp SW can be ON, PARK or OFF, makes no difference.

Too me it did look like the vacuum line.

Leaky FPR is like having a 7th injector. Once replaced a short period of idle/driving time is needed for the ECU Fuel Trims (STFT/LTFT) to find themselves again. Keep us posted.

If battery cables were disconnected, ECU will need to relearn itself, but your symptoms seem quite extreme for relearn. With each restart is there any improvement?

I think this condition is normal for HAZARD circuit. Also, both L/R fronts should also stay solid ON with brake depressed.

Some suggestions here. CarPart com

Now noted. Thanks

Should be, Intake Air Temperature. "r" looks like RAW values. Meaning what the ECU actually sees/reads. "m" looks like minimum/maximum values as see by the ECU yet stored and displayed on the REM. Used for troubleshooting purposes. iO ???

Disconnect C213. Check for Battery Voltage (B+) on C213_A with KEY ON and during ENGINE CRANK. C213_B is the GROUND leg for the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

Look at the vacuum hose between the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and intake manifold for fuel. Leaky FPR.

One more quick check. Look at the vacuum hose for fuel between the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and intake manifold. Another chance for a slow fuel leak.

Try holding throttle plate at the WOT position. During CRANK this will shut-off the fuel injectors (clear flood) until engine speed reaches 400rpms. Looking for slow leaky injector(s). Does this cut down on CRANK time when engine is HOT SOAKED?

Using my desktop computer. DELL