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Check for loose starter bolts.

2 pin connector is for a manual trans. NSS (gear selector switch) is for the automatic, located on the transmission.

Both 2.5L & 4.0L show B/U switch located on the transmission. 2 pin connector. Add your vehicle stats to your signature.

Don't know if all the available addresses are available on the REM. Even if the address for ADV Timing was, it would be difficult to read during engine transit conditions. The MIN/MAX function might help (DRB has this) but the display would just flash and blink values. Steady state values would read just fine, but not what you're looking for. A strip chart recorder would show you everything you need. Kind of like a DVOM vs a Simpson meter.

Considering the ECU uses a 'Speed Density' system for fuel/timing lookup values and A/F ratio doesn't seem to be the issue, then perhaps your losing engine timing (advance) during your city drive cycles.

Under both of your driving examples, is the vehicle in closed loop mode? Only the ECU knows if your in open or closed loop.

^^^ as stated above. Fuel acts like a coolant for the fuel pump. If your sucking air, the fuel pump takes on heat.

Past posting: 700126 TYC - HVAC Blower Motor with hole on the wrong place.

Good chance the FSM is only showing the exploded view for the right rear drum. Three (3) conditions will light the brake light bulb. Parking brake switch Ignition switch during CRANK (bulb check) Brake warning switch (unequal brake pressure) If brake light lit during 1 & 2, then either there wasn't enough unequal pressure to shift the valve, a stuck valve or a faulty Brake Warning Switch.

Using 88 Electrical Manual: Single connector should be plugged to IGN (lower center of fuse box). Now I agree with you, if ACC is hot in RUN then it shouldn't matter, but it will not see hot in RUN/START (I1). The 4A inline fuse comes off the brake switch.

CC Module adjustment set screws (3) should be centered. If vehicle is up on jack stands CC might/will not engage. Vehicle should be road tested for proper engagement (CC module needs feedback).

What color code does the wire have for that connector? Connect a DVOM between connector and ground. Cycle IGN SW thru all positions and determine if voltage is present. If voltage is present and your feeling lucky, ground that connector, using a fused (start with 5A) jumper wire and see if parking brake bulb lights.

When it was necessary to visit the Jeep Plant in Toledo OH, we always found time to eat at Tony Packo's. Klinger gave this place mention in a few of the M*A*S*H episodes.

Which fuse under the dash was replaced? Mechanical speedometer should be a separate problem. Check the Gauges Fuse 7.5A, unless this was the one replaced.

Yea, I'm with you on them splices. Wait till you find the 6 or 7 wire splices.

I'm not telling you that's factory (good chance it is). I'm just saying where the wires go.

I went back and relooked at the pictures. Green nub in 2pin is a weather protector for a empty cavity.

No. They should be spliced together. Tachometer in dash ICM Diagnostic Connector (D1-1)

Ignition module is just below those connectors. Thing with the coil on it. Note it has one 3pin connector and one 2pin connector on it. Actually its a Ignition Control Module (ICM).

Kinda looks like someone hooked up a second Ignition module. Can you check for continuity between those connectors and the connectors plugged into the Ignition module?

Is there a lighting module involved here? Possible DTC's. Burnt out high beam?

Try starting the vehicle with the shifter in the Neutral position.

Check your transmission shifter, make sure its in Park or Neutral.

Starter will only engage when your column/floor shifter is in Park or Neutral.

Verify Park/Neutral on your transmission shifter.