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Everything posted by Ωhm
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Welcome to the Forum. Might take 10 or more posts inorder for the Want Ads to work. Check out this thread (link) for electrical questions, its contains diesel schematics. Not the easiest to read, but its the best I've found so far. Click Here
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Looking at the wiring diagrams (88ELECT, pg20,pg71) both switches close when brake pedal is depressed. How should we address the NC & NO verbiage, when installed on the vehicle or out of the box and on the bench?
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Yes you could use relay logic here or could one just take the output of the correct contacts (connector connected) and feed the output wire (connector not connected) of the other set of contacts. This would a$$ume that all current requirements are meant and that the switch is as I claim.
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Out of the box and on the bench, doesn't that switch (SL186) have one set of contacts NC and one set of contacts NO? I would think you need both contacts to be NC.
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Its the Cruise/Trans Switch. Serves two purposes: Vacuum dump for cruise when brake lights are ON. Disengage Torque Converter when brake lights are ON.
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Normal oil pressure, temp and battery voltage readings?
Ωhm replied to ratty's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Even with your cap on, G102 (CAB & IP ground) finds G103 (Engine Compartment ground) through Splice G and then through C100_G4 to G103. Beefing up G102 is a good thing, but G102 still needs to find G103. -
A change in connectors usually means something else has changed. Its like the manufacture don't want you using incompatible parts.
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Normal oil pressure, temp and battery voltage readings?
Ωhm replied to ratty's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Not sure how close it is to the hood release cable, but it pigtails out of the harness with the wiper switch connector and the headlamp delay module (if equipped) connector. -
More starter problems...
Ωhm replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I think you just got a bad starter motor by the symptoms posted. -
More starter problems...
Ωhm replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Pin F (BAL) is connected to SOL internally. -
Normal oil pressure, temp and battery voltage readings?
Ωhm replied to ratty's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Check ground G102 located under the dash. This ground is used by both the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. Yes its tied to G103 (dipstick) through Spice G, but still needs to be checked for proper grounding. -
More starter problems...
Ωhm replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I've notice that both old and new relays have Pin F. I believe that pin feeds (BAL circuit) the fuel pump during CRANK, bypassing the ballast resistor. Connecting Pin F to BATT (threaded stud) would cause fuel pump to run constantly. -
You guys nailed it.
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Yea, need a end view picture showing the pin cavities.
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If this is a relay block, its for the cooling fan. Relay is missing.
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This thread talks about fuel pumps. https://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/892-1986-jeep-cherokee-25l-low-speed-lack-of-power/
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I know what you mean, but Michigan will never stop using salt, not until all the inland lakes turn to salt water caused by salty road runoff. Check out WIPP, salt that glows. http://www.wipp.energy.gov/fctshts/salt.pdf
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Your vehicle nightmare story coming soon to a dealership near you.
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True, even power steering, power brakes and automatic transmissions were new features when they first came out.
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My vehicle has A/C, but driving around town I like all 4 windows down. More & more I now notice starters engaging when traffic lights go from Red to Green. Is this technology going to dominate all vehicle in the years to come? It kinda makes me laugh when I hear this.
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Pin 30 receives Battery voltage from a Fusible Link. Examine all fusible links for bubbles, frayed insulation, located off the starter relay. If good, disconnect C103 (flat 6 pin connector) located on the right side of engine, near rear of engine compartment. Measure for B+ on Pin B (Red) using the side that goes back towards the battery.
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Pin 86 show normal at this time. Pin 30 Hot at all times.
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Pin 30 on the relay block (relay removed) should be Hot (battery voltage) at all times, even with the keys in your pocket.
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As mentioned above: YR?? ENG?? TRANS??
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Swap fuel pump relay with known good relay. Use the relays right next to it. If there is no change, take two (2) voltage measurements: Remove fuel pump relay and measure at relay block. Pin 30: Hot at all times (battery voltage). Pin 86: Hot with Key On (battery voltage).
