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Under both of your driving examples, is the vehicle in closed loop mode? Only the ECU knows if your in open or closed loop.

^^^ as stated above. Fuel acts like a coolant for the fuel pump. If your sucking air, the fuel pump takes on heat.

Past posting: 700126 TYC - HVAC Blower Motor with hole on the wrong place.

Good chance the FSM is only showing the exploded view for the right rear drum. Three (3) conditions will light the brake light bulb. Parking brake switch Ignition switch during CRANK (bulb check) Brake warning switch (unequal brake pressure) If brake light lit during 1 & 2, then either there wasn't enough unequal pressure to shift the valve, a stuck valve or a faulty Brake Warning Switch.

Using 88 Electrical Manual: Single connector should be plugged to IGN (lower center of fuse box). Now I agree with you, if ACC is hot in RUN then it shouldn't matter, but it will not see hot in RUN/START (I1). The 4A inline fuse comes off the brake switch.

CC Module adjustment set screws (3) should be centered. If vehicle is up on jack stands CC might/will not engage. Vehicle should be road tested for proper engagement (CC module needs feedback).

What color code does the wire have for that connector? Connect a DVOM between connector and ground. Cycle IGN SW thru all positions and determine if voltage is present. If voltage is present and your feeling lucky, ground that connector, using a fused (start with 5A) jumper wire and see if parking brake bulb lights.

When it was necessary to visit the Jeep Plant in Toledo OH, we always found time to eat at Tony Packo's. Klinger gave this place mention in a few of the M*A*S*H episodes.

Which fuse under the dash was replaced? Mechanical speedometer should be a separate problem. Check the Gauges Fuse 7.5A, unless this was the one replaced.

Yea, I'm with you on them splices. Wait till you find the 6 or 7 wire splices.

I'm not telling you that's factory (good chance it is). I'm just saying where the wires go.

I went back and relooked at the pictures. Green nub in 2pin is a weather protector for a empty cavity.

No. They should be spliced together. Tachometer in dash ICM Diagnostic Connector (D1-1)

Ignition module is just below those connectors. Thing with the coil on it. Note it has one 3pin connector and one 2pin connector on it. Actually its a Ignition Control Module (ICM).

Kinda looks like someone hooked up a second Ignition module. Can you check for continuity between those connectors and the connectors plugged into the Ignition module?

Is there a lighting module involved here? Possible DTC's. Burnt out high beam?

Try starting the vehicle with the shifter in the Neutral position.

Check your transmission shifter, make sure its in Park or Neutral.

Starter will only engage when your column/floor shifter is in Park or Neutral.

Verify Park/Neutral on your transmission shifter.

Does the starter engage and crank the engine?

Sorry, I never realized step 5 has you cutting off the tabs. This allows for dropping the distributor in the engine only aligning the oil pump driving shaft and setting the rotor tip approximately, or if your lucky, exactly where it needs to be. If your rotor tip is within a tooth or two, moving the distributor housing can make up for this difference. It is possible to do this without cutting off the tabs, but three (3) things need to happen all at once. Oil pump driving shaft must be aligned. As the distributor gear is dropped into the engine, the rotor tip will rotate with the distributor driving gear and must end up just leaving the distributor cap #1 tower, when distributor cap is reinstalled. Distributor housing tabs show the hold-down bolt hole between both tabs. This is not a easy task, but it is possible. Its your call.

Engine timing is a function of the CPS sensor location and the crankshaft trigger wheel. Using this signal, the ECU will determine when to fire the coil for base timing or any advance timing needed for any engine demands. No need to rotate the distributor housing/cap. Indexing ensures that the tip of the rotor, which does rotate, is correctly positioned for the number #1 tower on the distributor cap. Rotor tip should just be pulling away (trailing edge of rotor tip) from the #1 tower. Cylinder piston #1 must be on TDC of the compression/power stoke. Once rotor tip is set, the signal generator/pulse ring (SYNC sensor) will also be in its correct position. So again there is never any need to move the distributor housing/cap and should be installed using the distributor housing locking tabs.

Check the hose between the manifold and the fuel pressure regulator for fuel. Possible small leak on regulator diaphragm.

Is it just me or am I seeing more 50's and 60's station wagons being restored? Noticed more and more real nice ones driving around town lately. Could be a comeback for the wagon.